|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-06-2013 04:23 PM|
well guys, i know this forum is dead, but i'm taking a break from the truck game. traded this old girl for something a little more fun...
gunna try my luck with the go-fast scene for a while. i'll be back though, and lurking from time to time, not that you guys will miss me anyway haha.hope you all have fun at takeover and EC4RJ
|03-30-2013 10:43 AM|
|schwyter||just picked up a Dana 44 for $200. needs a rebuild and is missing a hub, but i think i got a good deal.|
|02-09-2013 11:21 AM|
pictures, as promised:
AFM swap and piping
rear bumper - note, we broke the welder at the auto shop on base, so it's not sealed up yet, therefor not painted. well, it was already half-broken, but while I was laying a sweet-ass bead the wire welded itself to the spring follower inside the gun.
and even though the gears and tires still don't match the "stock" ratio, i'm averaging 18.5 in town, with only about 40 miles with the new AFM. much much much better than the 15 i was getting for the past 6 months.
Still to finish:
- bed liner (i know, it looks like Frosty the Snowman blew his load on my truck bed)
- rear tailgate/tire carrier
- install front gears when I get them, should be tuesday or wednesday.
thanks to everyone for reading and commenting, it really helps keep the motivation alive.
|02-08-2013 06:13 AM|
Originally Posted by rocktoy View Post
|02-07-2013 08:14 PM|
|rocktoy||The AFM swap help's, I had one in mine back in the day.|
|02-07-2013 07:31 PM|
just an update:
- built some bumpers out of 4"x6"x1/4" tube front and rear
- swapped in 4.88 gears front and rear, old 4.10 diffs now for sale
- greased up the ball joints, u-joints, driveshafts, etc...
- just finished up the 5mge AFM swap an hour ago, waiting for the wife to come home so I can rob the filter from her jeep haha
that's about it, I know it's friggin exciting, but try to contain yourselves. I'll post pics this weekend after I take some worth posting, and hopefully I'll complete my tire carrier tailgate as well.
|12-16-2012 02:58 PM|
stats for shitty fuel economy
31x9.5 on 15x10 steelies
22re bored .030, 261 cam RV head
soon to ad header, 2 1/4 pipe, and supra afm
|12-16-2012 02:55 PM|
thanks Eric! picked it up yesterday, on what was the most miserable drive of my life. I don't know what speeds everyone drives at to get low 20's highway MPG, but driving the speed limit (75 out here in the Wild West) I'm getting 15-17 and a spinal realignment. not to mention it was raining the whole day, in Arizona. what's up with that?
oh well, picked up the header, painted it, and just waiting to put it on until I can make/find a flange so it isn't welded to the exhaust piping.
in the mean time, some stripes got painted
|12-10-2012 08:38 PM|
|rocktoy||Nice score on the header!|
|12-10-2012 11:47 AM|
Originally Posted by rocktoy87 View Post
|12-10-2012 11:22 AM|
Im lurking (Jordan)
looking good. Glad to see your getting it. Question... yellow duct tape, is that for a leak fix?
|12-09-2012 10:30 PM|
|schwyter||yea, I guess I caught it in time. $20 from the toyota dealer and 30 minutes of my time, sure as shit better than an engine fire.|
|12-09-2012 09:45 PM|
Originally Posted by schwyter View Post
Looks identical to what I found when I pulled one apart that started on fire!
|12-09-2012 09:38 PM|
I know I'm getting a little trigger happy with the posts, but just had to share this one.
snagged a thorley tri-y header barely used for $160 and a drive to Phoenix.
|12-09-2012 06:44 PM|
One more thing, the reason my alternator wasn't charging. gotta love neglected 25 year old car parts
|12-09-2012 06:13 PM|
Here are some pics of the intake setup and a close-up of the vacuum caps I made with my own wits and ingenuity haha
Going to order some intercooler piping and coupling to finish off the intake. On top of the plenum/TB swap and 5mge AFM swap, this baby'll be sucking more than a Thai hooker in a port town.
Still on the list:
-header and 2.25" all the way back
-V6 brake upgrade
-bed liner (have full raptor kit in hand, just too lazy to sand)
-find out why the g-d damn clutch lines are leaking, and where from
|12-08-2012 09:13 PM|
hell yea, I'm the man haha
new time switch worked fine but I guess the CSI was shorting somewhere in the harness. I don't have the time or patience to dig into that again, so I wired up to spray when the starter cranks...
+CSI tapped into +starter solenoid, and grounded to the intake ground.
only time will tell if this is a permanent fix, but I'm feeling very conident.
|12-08-2012 11:26 AM|
Well, the CSI time switch ohm testing out of spec is confirmed, I took the CSI out and cranked to check for spray, and it's bone dry. Lucky for me though, my buddy has an 89 that i'm cannibalizing in trade for a TV haha. I know the parts are good because his truck was running like a kenyan marathoner till he blew the head gasket (for the third time).
Only issue I'm still having after I swapped the full intake (plenum/throttle body) is that the idle is sitting at about 1200 after the engine's warm and the idle screw all the way in. I tested out the TPS per 4crawler's site, so that's in spec. I can live with it, but for the sake of the engine's longevity i don't think it's great to have it idle at 1200-1300 RPM, rather than the 750-800 i had it set at before.
I still have to give it a spin around town, and I'll upload pics of my vacuum caps and hoses and intake setup later.
Also, would the CSI time switch from the 89 have a different ohm range than my 87? It's a shame that ncttora had to take down there FSM's
|12-08-2012 08:53 AM|
Originally Posted by rocktoy View Post
|12-08-2012 04:26 AM|
|rocktoy||Looks like your on the right track now|
|12-07-2012 09:42 PM|
well, I check the CSI time switch, and with both STA-ground and STJ-ground are out of spec. I used this fsm page as a guide, but tested both to ground to since my plug is sideways and I wanted to be sure
painted the intake and valve cover, I'll upload more pics tomorrow of my hose routing and such
|12-06-2012 07:41 PM|
|schwyter||Sorry Eric, my apologies. can't blame me for trying|
|12-06-2012 07:32 PM|
It's Eric, Jordan is rocktoy87.
I run no egr and basically deleted everything not needed on my 22re. It runs fine but if its really cold it will idle high till it warms up.
|12-06-2012 06:59 PM|
Thanks man ( ... jordan? sorry, it's been over 3 years since i've seen you all, and that was only once or twice). I'll take pictures tomorrow of it all, still waiting on my 5mge AFM to swap in.
Today I swapped the plenums, but kept my throttle body because I didn't want to swap the TPS, as I've read that that is necessary. I did however take off the idle air control valve. My idle is being kind of wierd, but I think that's because I used the new plenum and the old TB and throttle cable. I replaced all of the vacuum lines on the intake as well.
I have had none of the negative effects of the EGR removal that everyone talks about. Before I get flamed for it, my crossover plate is completely clogged, as are most of the internal passages.
I'm thinking it is the CSI time switch, because when it was hotter than dick during october when I first got it running, I didn't need starter fluid, only when the temperature dropped. Now it gets as low as 55 at night, and only 80 at the highest. i know i'm going to miss this when i'm back in PA, but the summers here a brutal.
Would how to check the CSI time switch be in the FSM? I tried finding it on ttora/yotatech/pirate, and haven't found much on it.
|12-06-2012 03:52 PM|
Well after you get the intake swapped out let us know if anything changes but...
You should be able to backprobe the CSI to make sure it being told to turn on. Check the CSI, and coolant temp sensor to make sure they are at least doing their job. Wouldnt hurt to pull the AFM and check to make sure the door move's freely as well. They tend to stick sometimes and not close fully.
The surging is pretty common. Vacumm leak's will cause it and so will the T-body being set wrong. Try turning the brass flat head screw on the T-body inward some. You want the engine to idle but idle real high, if that screw is out to far the engine cant compensate for the extra air.
|12-06-2012 05:18 AM|
haha alright then.
Well, it'll just crank when trying to start most times, as if its not getting fuel, but it'll start right up if I spray in some starter fluid or carb cleaner. if I'm lucky ill get it to start after its been sitting in the sun for 20-30 minutes. I know it's getting fuel, air, and spark, and I know my timing is straight thanks to mark. I'm swapping out plenums today, so maybe it's just the cold start injector, but what do I know.
next, if you try to rev it to ~1900 RPM, it'll bog down like its going to die, then at ~1500 RPM it will jump back up and stay in this up-down cycle until you give it gas to break free.
finally, not sure if its just because of my shitty block lift, but when I'm driving and let off the gas and step on it again, even with a light foot, it bucks like a mofo, as if I stomped on the gas, and the axle is getting a lot of wrap. the second part is probably true though.
I gotta go but if you need any further clarification just let me know, hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about here haha
|12-05-2012 09:25 PM|
Post up what it does fool
And your right, not much activity here anymore. Kinda a shame
|12-05-2012 07:00 PM|
|schwyter||turns out this bad boy was running on 3 cylinders the whole time, finally got around to it. my #1 injector straight did not work, so I traded my buddy with a blown 22re my extra TV for all the engine parts I can use haha. had to splice and solder in the new injector wiring, due to different plugs, but now it runs like a top. Still having cold start issues, but I don't mind carrying starting fluid with me. If any one has any input on the subject, I can post the symptoms, but seeing as how this chapter is pretty much dead, i'm not going to hold my breath. no offense to those lurking, i've just noticed a decline in activity over the four years i've been a member|
|11-26-2012 09:13 AM|
|schwyter||I tried doing that, but to no avail. A guy here on base at the auto shop helped me out, we cut the STA wiring at the ignition switch and ran it to the starter solendoid. no problems with the starter, now it's a fuel delivery problem. it'll start from time to time, but if i leave it sitting overnight or for more than 10 minutes, it'll just crank. i'm not finding any fuel leaks, except maybe in the injectors which i'm sending off to witchhunter next month. i tested the AFM - all good. I tested the TPS - don't quite remember, but it was working fine after i tested it and hasn't moved. the only thing i can think of is an old OE fuel pump.|
|11-26-2012 08:33 AM|
Getting in to this bit late.
Instead of replacing starters. Look into the starting circuit on the 22re. Search posts from Big Ern on Pirate for the fix.
I had the same issue on an 87 runner, it clicked without starting. I spliced in a new power source to the starter relay and have not had the issue since.
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