TTORA Forum - Reply to Topic
Thread: "Taco Box" T-case Shifter Relocation Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 
   

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TTORA Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-31-2019 12:57 AM
ThunderOne Just ordered a Marlin box for my j shift 5 speed and was wondering if there's a way to get the install as clean as OP's. I won't have triple sticks though.
EDIT
I guess I will have to have triple sticks to make this work. Nevermind
08-10-2018 11:19 PM
hytenor
Quote:
Originally Posted by tacodab View Post
Mark.... if Marlin will pick up his phone, i am going to get a MC09
and, provided they have it in stock

'bout damn time, LOL
08-10-2018 02:33 PM
tacodab
finally going to do a crawler..... :) only took me 14 years LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Tacomi View Post
Here's what I did:

















I have since straightened the Tacoma T-case shift handle (the left one) and replaced the Marlin knob with another Tacoma Electronic shift knob/button with another shift boot. The left button controls 2/4WD and I use the right button for ARB compressor. No cupholders were lost in the process and with the two shifters side by side, looking as about OE install as possible.

I have a Marlin 'Taco Supreme' with 4.7 gearset, rotated 15°. I'm very happy with the 'extra' lower gear- I say extra because I have 2.56, 4.7 and 12.3, vs a stock setup having 2.28, 2.56 (basically the same) and 5.84. Depends on what you want from the box, and what terrain you wheel on.

Oh yeah, I have less than $30 into the shift linkage. I spent some $$ on the shift knob/boot from Toyota, but still am WAY under what some of those sealed shifters cost.




Mark.... if Marlin will pick up his phone, i am going to get a MC09
11-11-2013 06:57 AM
DudeMan Thanks folks. I'll be placing an order here shortly. Prolly get the seats and a slinger.
11-08-2013 12:44 PM
hytenor
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy



That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.
I'd bet the shift ball
get these:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...ver-ball-seats

replacing the seat on my tcase shifter stopped the leak I had this summer.

replace all your shifter seats at the same time as well s the plastic sockets
https://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=311
11-06-2013 04:05 PM
NorcalPR
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter
Yes
11-06-2013 03:10 PM
slander
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter
Call inchworm and ask, Josh will most likely answer the phone, good dude very helpful! Inchworm also sells marlins stuff, so you can just order it if it works, or they may have a solution as well.

Lumpski, that looks like mine, except a little cleaner infront of the shifter. I have the problem sealing this thing as i have to pull the shifter off to service the tcase/crawler oil and fill it via the shifter hole. So evrey 6months i have to take it apart (im very paranoid about changing oil on this setup, and thats how i check the "health" of the unit).
11-06-2013 01:29 PM
DudeMan I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter
11-06-2013 12:55 PM
Lumpskie
Quote:
Originally Posted by slander View Post
Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.
My setup does blow "some" hot air when the windows are open as well. When cut an re-made my trans tunnel, I left some room for my triple stick and hot air gets sucked up from there.




I ended up putting some "insulation" (think rags) under my boot surround and that took care of it. As for "too hot" the air was warm enough that it bothered me when I wore shorts in summer. I don't know if that helps...
11-06-2013 12:14 PM
slander ^^^ Yup, i had to build a temporary tunnel for mine to fit the triple sticks (almost 2 yrs old now, so much for temporary) and i sealed it up with duct tape. Gotta keep it ghetto and whitetrash, but it worked until my triple stick boot recntly ripped. Now I can see the road through it but as long as i keep the windows up its fine. Also keep in mind these boxes tend to run a bit hot, mine always did until i did the lefty conversion with the mc07 that shares fluid with the tcase, more fluid and surface area to disperse the heat. Another thing that would help keep it cool was thin synthetic fluid, dont run that dino shit unless its for break in only.

Not to freak you out, but my crawl box got extreamly hot right before the input fretted and stripped out. I actually asked a question about it the day before it let go on the street (hytenor gave me the same response BTW ). Drain the fluid and see whats going on in there, if it looks red/rusty or has a bunch of metal chips in it, it may be time to tear it down.
11-06-2013 11:20 AM
NorcalPR
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy



That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.
If it's coming from the shifter ball, it is possible to leak there if you don't have an "oil slinger," It's a metal plate that goes between the shifter and the case.

This happened on my "sealed" unit from inchworm. When driving, gear oil is flug everywhere inside the box. The gear oil probably gets flung right into the bottom of the shifter as well. No breather? It will puke out the shifter when the pressure builds. If you have a breather, it can still seep through the shifter over time, but not as quickly as it would if there was no breather.

I cut mine out of sheet metal. Took about 5 minutes to do and stopped the leak up there...


Also, I too noticed that the cases run MUCH hotter if the floor is not sealed up. About 3 years ago, I had to drive 100 miles with the floorboard open, and I could barely touch the shifter it got so hot. With the floor sealed up, it runs cool.
11-06-2013 10:35 AM
DudeMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by hytenor View Post
if your case is clocked you must move the breather to the dr side...if not clocked then no, don't need to.

how much oil are you putting in your crawler? 1Qt is the limit unless you have a newer Marlin with passage into the tranny dead space.

also, if your leak is coming from the shift ball and not the top plate you need to replace the shifter seat (marlin part). I just did that on my tcase...easy fix.
I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy

Quote:
Originally Posted by slander View Post
Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.
That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.
11-06-2013 06:13 AM
slander
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
Umm...sometimes. But what the hell does that have to do with anything?
Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.
11-06-2013 01:25 AM
hytenor
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
Well, i got a breather on the case itself with hose running to engine bay. Why the hell isn't that doing the trick? And why driver side not pass of shifter?...I've read this is the proper place somewhere before, I'm curious.

It prolly won't overheat until summer now. Winter is setting in here and it seems to run cool at cooler temps. But I'll keep and eye on it.
if your case is clocked you must move the breather to the dr side...if not clocked then no, don't need to.

how much oil are you putting in your crawler? 1Qt is the limit unless you have a newer Marlin with passage into the tranny dead space.

also, if your leak is coming from the shift ball and not the top plate you need to replace the shifter seat (marlin part). I just did that on my tcase...easy fix.
11-05-2013 12:20 PM
DudeMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by hytenor View Post
if you have a leak a the shifter you might as well pull it and drill/tap for a breather fitting. then run the hose up into the engine bay...mine is up near the master cyl. drill/tap your hole on the Dr side of the plate...NOT the pass

as for heat...hard to know how hot is 'hot' w/o a temp reading. get one of those cheap lazer temp readers from HF...under $10 and post a temp. I think mine runs in the 160* range on long summer drives.
Well, i got a breather on the case itself with hose running to engine bay. Why the hell isn't that doing the trick? And why driver side not pass of shifter?...I've read this is the proper place somewhere before, I'm curious.

It prolly won't overheat until summer now. Winter is setting in here and it seems to run cool at cooler temps. But I'll keep and eye on it.
11-05-2013 12:13 PM
hytenor
Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
Hey guys...It's been a while since I've been on here but still nice to see the same ole folks talking trucks.

Anyhow, I've noticed my inchworm box getting kinda hot during highway driving. Any idea what is too hot? When should I start worrying?

Also, back to leaky shifter when hot. (thought I fixed this but it's back) I haven't checked the breather on the crawl box yet to see if it's clogged, but curious if it's wise to drill and tap in a breather on shifter plate.

Any suggestions would be great - Thanks guys.
if you have a leak a the shifter you might as well pull it and drill/tap for a breather fitting. then run the hose up into the engine bay...mine is up near the master cyl. drill/tap your hole on the Dr side of the plate...NOT the pass

as for heat...hard to know how hot is 'hot' w/o a temp reading. get one of those cheap lazer temp readers from HF...under $10 and post a temp. I think mine runs in the 160* range on long summer drives.
11-05-2013 11:29 AM
DudeMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by slander View Post
Are your windows open when it gets hot?
Umm...sometimes. But what the hell does that have to do with anything?
11-05-2013 10:41 AM
slander Are your windows open when it gets hot?
11-05-2013 09:33 AM
DudeMan Hey guys...It's been a while since I've been on here but still nice to see the same ole folks talking trucks.

Anyhow, I've noticed my inchworm box getting kinda hot during highway driving. Any idea what is too hot? When should I start worrying?

Also, back to leaky shifter when hot. (thought I fixed this but it's back) I haven't checked the breather on the crawl box yet to see if it's clogged, but curious if it's wise to drill and tap in a breather on shifter plate.

Any suggestions would be great - Thanks guys.
08-29-2013 01:15 PM
Lumpskie VegasKurt:

I run the RADesigns plate for my stock case, but I do run that Inchworm base on my gear driven case. I haven't had a leak out of my system yet. (other than out of my breather when I overfilled it back when I originally installed it)
08-22-2013 05:21 PM
hytenor
Quote:
Originally Posted by vegaskurt View Post
I wonder if that triple shifter would work on an auto-console..

I just picked up a gear drive case for next to nothing so I am looking at adapters, does not look like Marlin sells his rear adapter by itself anymore on their site (or I am blind) and the TG kit does not allow clocking so I may be calling Inchworm in a few days.

Was wondering if any of you guys run this to keep the gear oil out of the cab.

http://inchwormgear.com/collections/...d-shifter-base
I have Jim's shifter plate (actually, originally from FROR) on my Inchworm crawler...never leaked. I have yet to see anything that would fit the OE Taco case. That said...Marlin's shifter sleeve in the OE tcase has solved the oil leak I had from there.
both adapters are available separately. I think Inchworm does most of the machining for both their's and Marlin's so either one will work.
08-22-2013 05:16 PM
vegaskurt I wonder if that triple shifter would work on an auto-console..

I just picked up a gear drive case for next to nothing so I am looking at adapters, does not look like Marlin sells his rear adapter by itself anymore on their site (or I am blind) and the TG kit does not allow clocking so I may be calling Inchworm in a few days.

Was wondering if any of you guys run this to keep the gear oil out of the cab.

http://inchwormgear.com/collections/...d-shifter-base
05-09-2013 12:27 PM
Lumpskie No Problem, man. I think it was one of the best decisions I've made on my rig.
05-09-2013 10:48 AM
Blackdawg sweet man thanks.

i could be PMing you in the future about some stuff. Looking to add a crawl box to my 96 next i think.
05-09-2013 09:02 AM
Lumpskie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
Wow man i love the triple stick setup. How much did that set you back?? think he would make another one??
Thanks! Rory sells his triple stick setups for $250 a piece. I gave him a list of the mods I had to make on his prototype, so I'm hoping it is all hammered out. Basically, I widened and shortened the lever arms for better ergonomics and looks.

Give him a call and tell him you saw my truck online. I'm sure he will make something for you; and you'll probably get a price break to boot!
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Wha...xt_______.html


EDIT:
Here's a pic of what I was talking about. At this point, the sticks are already bent. I shortened the base to make them all equal in height after this:

05-09-2013 02:17 AM
Blackdawg Wow man i love the triple stick setup. How much did that set you back?? think he would make another one??
02-11-2013 09:27 PM
DudeMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by slander View Post
Well worth all the money, no sleep, bloodshed and cursing for that perma grin!
Ha. I hear that.

Well...update. Those vibes you guys were telling would go away once I got rid of my spent dakars. You guys were dead on. Just installed allpro's standards and billies tonight...world of difference. Runs great now.

Perma grin is back
02-11-2013 07:00 PM
slander Well worth all the money, no sleep, bloodshed and cursing for that perma grin!
02-11-2013 12:57 PM
DudeMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by slander View Post
"perma drip".
like "perma grin"...it just won't go away.
02-11-2013 12:01 PM
slander
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorcalPR View Post
Did you run an oil slinger? It also is possible that the shifter bases seals are damage from welding heat.


All you saying that it's impossible to get leak free look at my thread. 1,000 miles on it and wheele the hammers and not one drop leaked out
Its for sure possible, the first crawl box i built was totally leak free..... It just blew up exactly 1 year after i built it!!!:lol: (not related to the sealing) The sibsequent builds, inluding my lefty, I just cant get rid of the "perma drip".
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome