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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well after my truck tried to kill me its time for me to put my fj80 axle in the front. The lower ball joint sheered clean through, ripping the brakeline clean off the frame, ripped the spindle off the upper arm, pulled the cv tulip out of the diff side, bent the steering rack inner tie rod 90* backwards, rim is trashed, and tire is shot. Lost all brake preassure and steering, went up an embankment and truck rolled onto the drivers side at a super slow speed, hardly any cosmetic damage thanks to the sliders, the tow company caused more damage righting the truck. passenger side is fine.

AXLE stuff:

Front '92 non abs, non-elocker axle
-fj80 non-elocker housing
-hp 8" with 4.88 and arb
-marlin/cruiser outfitters knuckle service kit
-new wheel bearings
-long lifetime knuckle wipers
-stock axles (until i can afford a superset or nitro gear shafts)
-hubs
-8"diff armor
-front caliper rebuild kit
-drilled and slotted rotors

Rear '93 Full Floater non-elocker
-9.5 third with 4.88s and arb
-man a fre rear axle wheel bearing kit
-caliper rebuild kit
-ballistic fabrication spring perches
-ballistic fabrication inspection plug
-shock tabs
-marlin hd pinion seal
-triple drilled pinion flange
-de bracketed
-pads and shoes
-rebuilt parking brakes
-drilled and slotted rotors
-diff breather extension (reusing existing setup)
-run hardlines
-braided ss lines to calipers
-

Transfercase:

-marlin or inchworm v6 auto to gear drive adapter
-gear drive cases 2:28 23 spline pass drop
-triple sticks
-custom made skid/crossmember

Steering:

-not sure on box yet. Options are, ifs box W/or Wout hydro assist, 80 box, scout ?
-tirerod and drag will be 3/4 heims with 5/8 bolts and safety washers
-pan hard will be outside frame mount axle/ offset to the front
-hellfire fabworks knuckles + steering arms

Suspension:

-4wheelunderground 3 link kit
-2.0x 14" coilover shocks triple rate with tender springs
-limit straps
-bumpstops
-shock towers intergrated into removable engine cage

Misc:

-t100 oil pan
-ps hoses
-currie universal sway bar setup
-gear drive case speedo conversion
-t100 1 ton 1-1/16" bore mc
-(2) led 7.5" bars for the arb bullbar
-driveshaft work
-35's, 255's or 295's of some sort
-ballistic fabrication frame box plates
:welder:

things in red i already have
 

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Discussion Starter #2
build is gonna go slower than planned, its costing me more than i thought to put my truck back together after the accident but once that's behind me, parts procurement should move rather quickly, on a realistic budget too
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well looks like I'm picking up an fj80 rear full floater unlocked 9.5 (will get an ARB sooner or later). Trying to decide between going with a gear drive dual case setup and just dealing with the 4" passenger offset (I know some guys are doing it on pirate and claim 70+ mph on the highway no vibes) maybe going to a 1 piece d-shaft will work better. Or to use a case that's pass side output(Orion 4.0). Wanna keep it all Toyota (except for adapters of course). the Orion has a 16 or a 10 spline shaft so i don't know how it would work with the 23 spline crawl box. this is what I'm thinking. i hear the split cases are weak and prone to all types of bending and deformations. Marlins site doesn't have too much info on 90+ LC case setups.

Possible setups;
a marlin v6 adapter - RF1A 2.28 crawl box -adapter? - Orion 4.0 case = 124:1 cr
a marlin v6 adapter - RF1A 2.28 crawl box -MC07 - Rear 4.7 case = 146:1 cr
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well apparently advance adapters doesn't have a way to mount an orion behind an 23 crawl box, however im pretty sure marlin has something

this is the setup that im looking at, only thing i would need to change is the trans to crawl box adapter for the v6 auto one. only thing im not clear on is the 23 spline input to the orion, not sure if its possible
 

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Subscribed!! Looking at a very similar setup and could use the added knowledge.
 

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Well looks like I'm picking up an fj80 rear full floater unlocked 9.5 (will get an ARB sooner or later). Trying to decide between going with a gear drive dual case setup and just dealing with the 4" passenger offset (I know some guys are doing it on pirate and claim 70+ mph on the highway no vibes) maybe going to a 1 piece d-shaft will work better. Or to use a case that's pass side output(Orion 4.0). Wanna keep it all Toyota (except for adapters of course). the Orion has a 16 or a 10 spline shaft so i don't know how it would work with the 23 spline crawl box. this is what I'm thinking. i hear the split cases are weak and prone to all types of bending and deformations. Marlins site doesn't have too much info on 90+ LC case setups.

Possible setups;
a marlin v6 adapter - RF1A 2.28 crawl box -adapter? - Orion 4.0 case = 124:1 cr
a marlin v6 adapter - RF1A 2.28 crawl box -MC07 - Rear 4.7 case = 146:1 cr
Check with GotCope, he has been running that same rear in his Taco for some time.
 

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If I had to put my two cents in. Having gone the path of one-off custom parts in the past. It makes mating things together more of a pain than it has to, stick with stuff a little closer in manufacturer types, (ie. toyota to toyota stuff) NOT SAYING YOU HAVE TO STAY 100% TOYOTA! just in some places it makes things easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah there's another guy on pirate running an 80 up front with radius arms and coils and an offset rear his truck is a faded red. The 4" offset doesn't really scare me, but I DD my truck for now until I get a more commuter friendly car that I can work on (I'm picky about my shit). The alternative and overall vision i see for my truck is front 92' front hp with arb,80 with hellfire fabworks knuckles and arms, 3-link 14"coil overs if you haven't seen them http://hellfirefabworks.com/fj80hsu/ billy the owner sold me the front axle, i saw the white 4runner with the 3-link and coil overs that thing is awesome. Im going to build a three link w/14" coil overs similarly to the off road solutions kit that they no longer make.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I had to put my two cents in. Having gone the path of one-off custom parts in the past. It makes mating things together more of a pain than it has to, stick with stuff a little closer in manufacturer types, (ie. Toyota to Toyota stuff) NOT SAYING YOU HAVE TO STAY 100% TOYOTA! just in some places it makes things easier.
I see eye to eye on this with you also, only problem is there isn't really a viable option for an offset rear diff. Using an 80 t-case limits gearing and is fairly weak case structure, not to mention dealing with the center diff lock and electronic/vacuum bs. I figured the Orion would be a good option because its a Toyota design basically with a stronger housing(iron), it can handle the hp/torque, gear options of 3 or 4:1, and its mechanical. I plan on running the rear first(selling my rear to fund my 9.5 3rd build up and axle rebuild) and then when i get into the conversion in the front then ill deal with the t-case issue. but the axle is gonna take me a couple months to gather more parts and build the front axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hopefully my Christmas present to myself will be a converted truck (not calling it a swap because my truck never had a straight axle to begin with, i hate the terms) but the input is greatly appreciated. My truck is not a hammers type, body damage doesn't do anything for me although sometimes inevitable it shows a lack of skill, patience and most often too much ego-the people i wheel with share the same sentiments, and i would consider my build as a hybrid although nothing really groundbreaking I'm just trying to build a rock/adventure rig for destination style camping. bragging about broken parts is useless and just takes away from funds going towards mods. I build things right the first time although costs more, it saves in the long run. Thanks to the people following this I'm sure I'm gonna need a lot of input when it comes to link placement and geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
picked up an 80 series non-locked full floater out of a 93 today
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gonna start tear down today, will take pics of the various stages of dis-assembly because i really couldn't find too much on the FF rear (looked in the tech page on ih8mud, plenty of info about the front). The housing rotor to rotor with no 3rd was still heavy as hell(2 people lifting) the 3rd is huge at 9.448" don't imagine my puny v6 putting out around 150hp even with torque multipliers will be able to make a dent in this thing. I already knew the parking brake was gonna be a problem being so low on the rear axle but i have an idea on how to move the cable up. that will come after I'm done cutting off all the brackets and re-doing the hardline for the brakes.
things to do:
get rotors turned
rebuild calipers (im sure they're fine but just want to start fresh)
new bearings and seals (same reason as above)
cut all the unnecessary brackets off
weld on some diff protection
weld on new shock mounts
put spring perches on and set pinion angle
sell my 8.4 rear end with ARB and PG 4.88s to fund my third buildup
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FJ80 93' Rear Full Floater Tear-Down/Rebuild

Posts and pics are running a day behind actual work, I just don't have the time. Yesterday I got the rear axle fully disassembled which was the only way i was gonna get it out of the back of my truck by myself and even then it was dicey.

She was a little dirty but all and all pretty good-great condition, no major evidence of 4x4 activity on the bottom of the housing or 3rd member. I started off taking the shaft out which is pretty damn easy (6x12mm nuts and 6x cone washers) the brass bar trick has always worked for me if not i know a trick with a screwdriver but pretty uneventful, I will be changing the studs out as i saw some rust that looked suspect, king bolt in Covina sells metric studs for a great price been running them in my front manual hub swap for yrs now (cheap security).

I didn't have any bolts handy to screw into the shaft to press itself out so i used a really thin bladed screwdriver and lightly tapped, being careful not to mar anything it worked without incident but i would recommend doing it the right way.

Everyone says the axle nut is the trickiest part but I felt let down that it spared me issues. I found a little evidence of water intrusion but the spindles are immaculate. First I undid the two Philips head screws, Ive heard people say that its a Japanese-spec head and a normal screwdriver will strip it, I used a craftsman #3 US Philips and felt 100% engagement not a slip. I didn't have the three prong SST so I just used a brass punch and a hammer to tap on the lug to loosen it then I spun it off with the #3 screwdriver, again another situation where I advocate using the right tool but with careful precision it can be done.

Found this florescent yellow grease all over everything, supposedly its really hydrophobic and temp stable, gonna degrease it and start fresh but I spread it all over and left it on to protect the spindles from rust, and put the nuts back on to keep the threads safe.

Wheel hub looks almost identical to the mini-truck hub.

This was the pile of parts that I was able to take off, I would say around 100 pounds maybe.

Now that I got her as light as I could it was time to move.

This is her in her current resting place, shes soaking in degreaser. Housing sub projects will be bracket removal, redo brake lines, strip down to bare metal, repaint, e-brake, spring perch's, install. (My REAR BUMPER in the right of the frame will be up for sale soon<----same one in my sig photo).

And I thought my rear-end was bigger than most(trds). Now that won't even be a question

 

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Discussion Starter #14
I Will post what I got done today...tomorrow if that makes any sense.
Brakes
Rebuilt one caliper and left the other one to do - kind of like a before and after
Cleaned the three way junction/bracket for the hard brake lines
Axles
I cleaned and de-greased both shafts
Stripped old gasket material off
Cleaned splines out with de-greaser and a tooth brush
Applied high temp RTV to shaft flange
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nothing really eventful just a lot of de-greaser, steel wool and some wax-on. I took a few pics but waiting on parts from Cruiserdan over on mud. Need a caliper rebuild kit, and FF rebuild kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nothing really to report, I picked up (6) 16x8 4.25"bs 32 bolt bead-locks on Sunday because the 93' rear axle wouldn't clear my 15's. With the offset of the rims and some 255/85/16's I should be the same width I am now which is nice. My buddy's old boss has a plasma cutter so hopefully the axle will get de-bracketed today. Finally got all of the part #'s for the full floater stuff I need, now I just need the money:2cents:.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the axle brackets all cut off, still need to grind the housing smooth. The next thing is to get the bearings and seals to put this thing back together. Once i have everything in place I'm going to run a new hardline and stainless braided lines to the calipers. Then once I get the 3rd built I can set the pinion angle and put this thing in. The final hurdle will be dealing with the low hanging parking brake but i have some ideas.
It pays to have a friend with access to a forklift and plasma cutter.

Pile of brackets

Still got some grinding to do

 

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I see eye to eye on this with you also, only problem is there isn't really a viable option for an offset rear diff. Using an 80 t-case limits gearing and is fairly weak case structure, not to mention dealing with the center diff lock and electronic/vacuum bs. I figured the Orion would be a good option because its a Toyota design basically with a stronger housing(iron), it can handle the hp/torque, gear options of 3 or 4:1, and its mechanical. I plan on running the rear first(selling my rear to fund my 9.5 3rd build up and axle rebuild) and then when i get into the conversion in the front then ill deal with the t-case issue. but the axle is gonna take me a couple months to gather more parts and build the front axle.
Another thing to just be aware of, is mating iron to aluminum and how you mount them to crossmembers and to each other. I had a 700r4 mated to a 203/205 dual case setup. If you're not careful and properly support the small moped hangin from the back of your trans or t-case, it might not be a fun afternoon. :p

P.S. I love one-off stuff, it's this stuff that makes it fun and breaks trail for new things.

Keep at it! :welder:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Haha yeah thanks man definitely know how malleable aluminum is. Still not 100% on the setup so i'm just gonna run the rear and see how it works, of the 4 or 5 people I've seen running a FF rear none of them have any complaints or at least mentioned anything (thepinktaco, gotcope, etc). If the rear gives me no issues than I will probably just run dual RF1A cases 2.28-4.7 for the better crawl ratio, i'm gonna stay at 4.88s for the highway and gas mileage, for the trails I run, 315/295/or 305's are gonna be enough, anything more just makes things too easy
 

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Discussion Starter #20
pics of the beadlocks i need tires for, also running 4.25 backspacing so the dust shield and all the components are protected inside the rim. I also wanted to maintain a factory width look, and to make things easier on the narrower trails that i run, and hopefully it will be ready for the Dusy next year

 
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