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03' Runner Ridin High

9485 Views 75 Replies 26 Participants Last post by  praufet
lots has been done, lots to are a few pics:


MT :welder:
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Ok, short and sweet info update here. The suspension mods are custom rear lift coils with spacers on top. Pan hard has been dropped, sway bar end links extended. In the front it is downey coilovers with a 1.5" spacer on top of the stack. With the coilovers cranked up 2.5" of thread, I am sitting at about 7" of suspension lift. I dropped the front diff 1.375". Swapped all wheel studs to 20 x 1/2 to hold the heavy ass Toyo M/T's and 22x9.5 Helo's (170lbs per corner) on real tight and snug. There is a 1.25" BL. The tires are a 37x13.5R22 MT that measure closer to 38". That should do it for now. The only rubbing I have is the inner frame rail at full lock. I may be dropping the lower arms soon, changing the tie rod ends, changing the front sway end links, etc until I have the travel and ride in the front I want.

When I take her wheeling, which I do quite a bit, I toss on 16" black steel wheels and 35" thornbirds. I will get some pics of that setup posted as time allows. Sliders and a ton of armor are on the way.

Lastly, after cranking up the front end a little more last night, I have a decent amount of front end hop...any ideas? I am thinking that either my lower arms need to be dropped, my sway end links lengthened, or possibly flipping the tie rod ends over to lessen the angle. Any help here would be much appreciated. All in all, she sits 11" higher than a stocker, and front diff clearance after the drop is still over 17". Time to get that rear axle cut and turned! Thanks all.

MT :)
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lol...thx all i suppose. got the t-birds for free, so i cant complain about that...was thinking claws or boggers...what do you all recommend?? The front fender/tire stuff isnt a prob, but the rear at the front of the fender is, as mentioned by you all. With the 35's it is no prob though...there is 7" of suspension lift there plus the 1.25" BL. Fill me in on your wheelin tire ideas, I am all ears...oh yeah, resolved the bouncing too.

MT :)
CartmansPnus said:
LOL...I can dig that, haha. Ahh man, good crew here, keep it coming!!...I never expected a rave review. ;)

wslytoy said:
:rofl: that's fuckin hilarious!!!
C'mon guys...I am living in the Gay Area of San Francisco!!!, lol...jus doing what I can to fit in...ah, sh*t...that is even worse, lol.

Ahhh well, all comments are welcome, and if I cant take em I shouldnt be posting, right?!, cya soon.

AK98Taco said:
I like this new guy. Not afraid to be different and take some rather offensive criticism.
thanks all, just here for the same reasons you are, to learn and BS and then learn some more. i appreciate the warm welcome and your honest opinions. i have a couple tech questions i will be posting soon as there is nothing on the market yet for the 4th gen runners, though as soon as the 05'+ taco's get a kit to drop the lower arms there will be. i am thinking of having my fabber do up some custom brackets to drop the lowers for more droop. also, my tie rod ends are the end, lol. i gotta come up with something there too.

aight, enough outta me, glad you be diggin the bumperless look! ;)

AK98Taco said:
This guy had such a great attitude coming here. Too bad he may be a complete shyster.
Only time will tell my friends...the rest is up to you to determine ;)

And yes, CBI kicks ass for sure!
Yeah, this is AK. Came over this way to get educated and pose some tech questions that I figured would be cake for all of you to answer. I have no intent to push any product whatsoever, just here to learn. If you want to judge me from my past mistakes I cant control that, but what I CAN control is my future and the building of my rig.

So, here is question #1 - my tie rod ends are pretty much maxed out in both threaded contact and angle. I tried to flip them over and have them insert the ball joint on the spindle from the top instead of the bottom. I was able to align back to spec no prob but the steering was super touchy, WAY too sensitive. Has anyone else ever tried this??...and if so what were your results? Also, does anyone know when and if an '05 tacoma kit will come out to drop the lower arms, add taller spindles, etc, etc??? Thanks in advance, again I am here for no other reason to learn from the rest of you and help when I can, later.

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ptrautne said:
Your TRE needs to stay parallel with the upper and lower control arm. If you have the TRE at a different angle to can make bump steer really bad
awesome!!...thx for the quick response.

thought you all may enjoy this pic. thanks for keeping things on the up and up over here!


BoostedTurd said:

Ok.. I was wondering.. I just read an article about the pros, and cons of 20"+ rims... there were alot more cons, then the 1 or 2 pros... the 16" rims sound much better for wheelin!

Looking nice... dont forgot to re-post pics when you have more done

cheers :xbeer3:
thanks BT, yeah the 22's arent worth a damn in the mud or trails. little by little the POS is getting put back together, been a very rough 14,000 miles on that rig, lol. all good though, my experiments have been worth the happiness enjoyed by others. from what i can tell you all arent fans of the t-birds...i had a free hook up on em, but fill me in on what you all think i should snag for the 16's...i am in norcal right now, but the more capable the tire, the better. thx all.

kickaha said:
I truely believe the information presented here and on the website is of concern to the members of this forum. However, if the moderators would prefer I not post these updates here, just let me know and I'll stop.

Regardless, I will not be involved in any back and forth debating sessions on this forum with Nitrous Enterprises. There is a huge amount of well-documented evidence on None of the technical details there have been countered anywhere by Nitrous Enterprises. Judge for yourself....

So, for those STILL following this, there is a new article up on the website that takes a detailed look at their choice of materials for the shock re-locators. In particular, it looks at why the stainless re-locators are rusting and the strength of the stainless steel they chose to use. You can find it here:

What this and all articles on that site are attempting to demonstrate is a pattern of behavior by Nitrous Enterprises showing little if any real engineering research for their products. The results of which are flawed designs and, in turn, flawed products that could have serious safety consequences.

The point of all this being that if the research, design, and manufacturing on the products discussed on that website was so flawed, you might want to insist on actual proof that the product you are thinking of purchasing wasn’t made to the same “standards”.

I've provided actual evidence. Nitrous Enterprises has provided what?
14:57, 14:58, 14:59...

Personal NE apology to all here regarding the above, all of this will be gone before you know it. We stand behind ALL products we have ever produced, I WILL NOT argue with this individual, so we are taking care of things how we should have long ago. And mods, if you want me to delete this thread, I gladly will, NE has moved onward and upward while this poor soul hasn't. Goodnight.

MT :)
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