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I am installing a secondary gauge cluster in my 03 Taco and I am looking for some wiring help. I have gone over the FSM for my truck and I am still unsure what I need to do.

I want to tap into the fuse box inside the cab by the driver's side. I want to avoid, if possible, extending the wiring to go to the fuse box in the engine compartment.

The wiring directions for the gauges is as follows:
  • "Using automotive grade wiring (18 gauge), connect the yellow wire to a positive 12 volt constant (un-switched) source either on the vehicle or in the fuse box.
  • Using automotive grade wiring (18 gauge); connect the red wire to a positive 12 volt ignition (switched) source. It may be connected to the fuse panel, an accessory wire, or any positive 12 volt source that turns on and off with the ignition.
  • Using automotive grade wiring (18 gauge); connect the black wire to any good (unpainted) ground connection. You may also route a wire directly to the negative side of the vehicle’s battery.
  • The Night Time Dimming feature decreases the brightness of the gauge face by 30%. Connect the orange wire to the 12 volt positive headlamp source. This allows the mode to be activated when the headlights come on."
The connection for the ground wire I got covered it's the other connections I'm a little fuzzy on, because I'm not sure which source is "switched" and "un-switched" and which source to tap into for the dimming feature.

Going off the diagram on the fuse box cover I have the following circuits to tap into:
  • ACC 15A
  • POWER 30A
  • ECU-IG 15A
  • GAUGE 10A
  • ECU-B 7.5A
  • TURN 10A
  • IGN 7.5A
  • HORN. HAZ 15A
  • WIPER 20A
  • STA 7.5A
  • 4WD 20A
  • STOP 10A
So long story short, which of the above circuits is "switched" which are "un-switched." Also, which ones can I tap into for the dimming feature or is this an item I need to extend into the engine compartment to tap into the headlight circuits. One more thing, I'm not sure if this will have an effect, but my taco has daytime running lights.

Thanks for the help
 

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Your "power" fuse should be constant. Others that are switched would be on with the key so ACC, gauges, wiper, IGN, Would be my first guess. Your best bet is to get a multimeter and test what fuses have constant power and what has switched. As for the dimmer I would run it to the wiring that controls the headlights from the cab.
 

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extend and run a ground wire into the metal of the kick panel (easy access and easy to ground to)

for 12volt constant and for 12volt switched go directly to the ignition harness coming off of the key cylinder.
12 volts will be a white wire with a red tracer
ignition will be a black wire with a red tracer

as mentioned by crusher, use a multi meter and test your wires before you tap in to them, but taping into the ignition harness will be alot easier and safer than just throwing a fuse tap into your glove box in my opinion.
 

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ACC 15A -- hot in accessory
POWER 30A -- should be constant
ECU-IG 15A -- accessory power
GAUGE 10A -- acc pwr; may be tied into the dimmer
ECU-B 7.5A -- acc pwr
TURN 10A -- hot when turning
IGN 7.5A -- acc pwr
HORN. HAZ 15A -- constant
WIPER 20A -- ign hot
STA 7.5A -- hot while starting
4WD 20A -- run hot
STOP 10A -- constant hot
Getcha a test light and poke around until you find a power point that is powered when you want it powered... as in key hot, run hot or constant hot.
The DRLs have their own circuit, and I think that can be defeated by the simple removal of a fuse.
Keep in mind, I'm an old-school truck guy so I'm not 100% on this; but the electrical is very very very similar throughout the ages.
 
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