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Discussion Starter #1
I posted something on this, but it must have been on the old board and I can't find it.

Looking sometime in the future to upgrade the system with a new head unit, speakers, amp and hopfully a couple subs.

The head and door spears are not much of a concern for me as I will get what I want, looks like it fits the appearance of the dash and what I can afford. Prices have dropped a LOT since 91 that's for sure :lmao:

Do people run the "door speakers" off the head unit (mosta re 50x4 anymore) and just run the subs off the amp? That would be real simple, plus I could wait on the subs if I wanted to.

Okay, subs and amp(s). I have not had a "system" since my younger days in my CRX :p I want the subs to be out of sight and not affect the back seat in any way. Same with the amp(s) Next is better than average quality.

Lastly I am not looking for a boomin' system, but more or less nice crisp highs lows and mids.

TIA
 

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Bones said:
Do people run the "door speakers" off the head unit (mosta re 50x4 anymore) and just run the subs off the amp? That would be real simple, plus I could wait on the subs if I wanted to.

Okay, subs and amp(s). I have not had a "system" since my younger days in my CRX :p I want the subs to be out of sight and not affect the back seat in any way. Same with the amp(s) Next is better than average quality.

TIA
You can get a new head unit and un it with your stock speakers and will be amazed at how much better it sounds. If you upgrade your door speakers, you can run those off the HU aswell, or- get tricky and add an amp to run those to get better power and sound.
How much are you willing to spend on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
SurfingDrunk said:
You can get a new head unit and un it with your stock speakers and will be amazed at how much better it sounds. If you upgrade your door speakers, you can run those off the HU aswell, or- get tricky and add an amp to run those to get better power and sound.
How much are you willing to spend on this?
Thinking I will probably do the HU first, then the door speakers soon after, then an amp/subs if I can get them to fit. Thinking of running components up front and coaxials in the rear. Here's my estimated prices

Head unit $250
Front componets $200
Rear coaxials $140

So $600 from the get go, plus the plug/play harness and double to single DIN plastic piece. Then the subs/amp if I go that far. Wish I could just fit in an amplified Bazooka tube.

cbr900rr95 Where is your amp for the KW Subs? Thanks for the pics.
 

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Here is a great sub box for our dbl cabs....check out this web site (not a link) sellproductsnow.com the guys name is Jeremy...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the C said:
Here is a great sub box for our dbl cabs....check out this web site (not a link) sellproductsnow.com the guys name is Jeremy...
Wonder if a 6.5 is big enough is all. I was hoping for no bigger than a 10 for crisp bass.
 

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For a Head Unit id sujest going Pioneer Premire just cause even at a low cost for a deck you will get High pass filter wich improves sound quality out of stock speakers by a 100% I have stock mids and 2 10's in my truck with the Pioneer Deh-p360 deck the deck an't fancy but it has High Pass filter and it sounds wicked.
 

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Tacobike said:
Hey, you would be suprised how much bass two of those little 6.5's will put out. Let me know if you are interested in a box.

Jeremy
[email protected]
What do you have for an 05?
 

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Bones said:
Wonder if a 6.5 is big enough is all. I was hoping for no bigger than a 10 for crisp bass.
I don't see how you could fit a 10 in there without losing use of one of the seats. 8's would even be a really tight fit, simply due to the lack of depth behind the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
NICE setup. More than what I need, but that IPOD sure would be sweet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
synovus said:
I don't see how you could fit a 10 in there without losing use of one of the seats. 8's would even be a really tight fit, simply due to the lack of depth behind the seats.
Oh I know, just a wish is all. For now I will start with a head unit and stock replacements and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FYI - Ordered a 2 sub box from Jeremy last week.

Also bought an Alpine CDA-9851 and an XM unit this past weekend. Sounds is already better with just the head unit! Going to upgrade at least the front compnents, add 2 JL subs and an amp once funding allows.
 

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I put the Alpine CDA 9835 into my dash, used the stock bracket, and put the plastic bracket from Mepro(?) on as well, just using the faceplate to cover the stereo's perimeter. I installed MB Quart's PCE-213 components into the front doors (fashioned a custom bracket, but Crutchfield has them), and Alpine Type R's in 6x9 into the back. I put an Alpine MRV-F450 5 channel amp behind the seats. I currently use a bass tube (I know, gay but it sounds pretty nice) in 8". I am currently working on a single 6.5" box for behind the psgr side seat (amp's on driver side with power dist block). I highly recommend the MB Quarts, be it the premiums, q series, or reference, stay away from discus though. They're very powerful and clear, you must use an amp to get all they have to offer though.
If you go the full system route like this, plan on a lot of time to install it yourself, I took a whole weekend of 12hr days to install/tune my system properly with dynamat and proper wire routing (power on one side, sound on the other). I took everything out of the truck, carpet, seats, console, all plastic trim pieces (be real careful with those mounting tabs) and the ONLY thing that broke was one bolthead on the 'oh-shit' handle on the driver's side. The dealer took a whole day to drill and easy-out it! go figure. I only took it to them so they'd be the ones to screw up the threads and retap if it were to happen, not me.

Jeremy, a question about your boxes, i noticed that the backs of the seats are removed in the photos. Is this required for proper fit or was it an 'in progress' installation with those off and were later reassembled? Also, do you find that the mounting depth is adequate for a backside mount on the subs, or do you have to surface mount? Using 3/4" MDF, do you believe there's enough depth to possibly put a routed rabbett into the opening so that the sub isn't contacting the back or base of the seat?
 

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Hey,
Good questions. Actually, the box is made of 1/2 MDF and center braced very well depending on the amount of subs. Since they are only 6.5" subs, it is stiff enough as long as it is braced (I could stand on one at 200lbs, but I wouldn't jump!). So, I have to mount them on the surface. It is a good idea to add grills, so the subs can move free and are not effected by the seats. I have built one that has 2 pieces of 1/2 on top of each other and the subs are then mounted flush with the box, since the second piece of mdf is the same height as the subs mounted. I don't do them this way now, since it makes the box more tight and almost impossible to use carpet because of it's thickness.

If the 2-sub(27-30") box is mounted on the drivers side of the wall, both seatbacks must be removed. If on the passenger side, that side only is required to come off since it is a 60/40 split seat. If put on the passenger side, it is also necessary to remove the mounts for the jack. My jack now rests under the left side of the box and is secure. Lots of guys use a high-lift, so the jack doesn't matter for those guys.

Jeremy
 

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Jeremy, I was considering your box, but decided to build one myself to use one 8" JL. Im driving it with a Rockford Fosgate P3001, 150w RMS x 1 at 4 ohms. 8s can work, but it is not easy, picking the right sub is critical. Rockford Fosgate makes a 8" that is less than 4" deep (very important) and likes a really small box (.15 to .35 cu ft.) http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jS6kwobkxu9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67500&I=575P18S4 The cool thing about these is that they cost way less than the JL 6.5s (80$ a pair) and should put out even more sound. Maybe your next product could be boxes for these?

I am happy with my single JL 8, it really adds a lot to my sound, but I'm probably gonna buy a Kicker solobaric 8 and make it work on the drivers side. I want more volume from my sub and the JL is already on the border of being overpowered by my amp. The RF amp I have is capable of running at 2 ohms, for twice the power and the Kicker can take that (and more). I'll take some pix when (if it can fit) I'm done and post them.
 

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I second the recommendation for the MB Quarts. I run the Refrence 6.5's up front and the Discus 6.5's in the rear of a 93 Xtra Cab. Did some custom work on the door panels (cut them) and made new panels in the rear to mound the 6.5's. Do not put the discus line up front because they sound really flat but they work fine in the back because all that does is fill out the cab. Some people may feel different but I think you will find if you put a set of Refrence or better up front, you don't need to spend alot on the rears unless you are planning on riding back there alot. That being said I have them all running through a Alpine MRV-F540 and it sound awesome. I would love to have a sub but I just don't wanna give up the room.

Hey Boyleman, what gauge wire are you using for power on your amp? I have 4awg but had to trim it to fit the terminals on the amp. I have been told that 8awg will be plenty but that seems kinda small for a 600 watt amp. Just want your opinion since you have similar set up to me.
 
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