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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a list of the things I'd like to do, some what in order:

Demello Sliders (bolt on)

Regear both differentials, ARB locker in front

Donahoe Coil Overs

Deaver 8 Leaf Rear Springs

BFG Mud Terrain's 255/85/R16 on Black Wheelers Alloy Wheels 16x8 4" backspacing

ARB Bullbar w/ Warn M8000 Winch

Demello Rear Bumper

There are a few extra things I need to take into account, such as new U bolts and bushings for the leafs, and some trimming for the tires...

What I'm wondering about is longer rear brake lines, and brake proportioning, what's necessary?

On board air, for the ARB locker and tire inflation, do I need an air tank?

Regear, where to buy new gears?

Have I missed anything, or overlooked anything?
 

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That all sounds fine and dandy, the question is, do you need the front locker?

I ask this because you are looking for information on where to buy gears, if a longer rear brake line is needed, etc. You sound like you have your main parts picked out, but are you ready/able to fix what breaks and what needs more maintenance?

Gears can be purchased through quite a few of the sponsors on this site.

Get another stock rear brake line, cheap and easy way to extend your rear brake line.

Proportioning valve, you need to raise the arm on the diff by the # of inches you lift the truck. A simple piece of metal with holes drilled in it suffices. The stock proportioning valve sucks, but unless you want to go to a manual type with more work... stick with the stocker, either modified, or in stock form (arm raised)

OBA, depends on what compressor you are running, or if you are running a CO2 tank. There are quite a few options!

Rear bumper? I dragged my 04's ass all over the place.
Traction bar, 8leafs are pretty damn soft, might want to go to a 9leaf.
Skid plates
place to keep spares and tools while out on the trail
CB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure that I'd need a front locker either, I just would rather have it put in the same time I regear the front diff.

Traction bars, what's the benefit of those with the leaf springs?

I'm assuming that you'd buy a stock line, and some fittings and cut it up to extend the line?

Rear bumper, you beat yours up alot?
 

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Think hard about that front locker. Unless you have the coin burning a hole in your pocket. The CV's are not that strong, you have to be very careful when driving with the locker on.

Traction Bars keep axle wrap away and aid in protecting the drive shaft.

take two stock brake lines, screw one male end into the other lines female end, you have a LONG soft brake line. no modification to the lines.

My stock rear bumper got thrashed...
I don't have any pictures of it though... I upgraded:
http://www.nowwgasa.net/albumimage.asp?src=AnzaBorrego11-05/Calcite+Mine/calcite_033.JPG
http://www.nowwgasa.net/albumimage.asp?src=AnzaBorrego11-05/Calcite+Mine/calcite_043.JPG


After all that, I needed a different rig to wheel in, I was finding myself taking lines that the truck couldn't do... so I bought and built:
http://www.nowwgasa.net/albumimage.asp?src=RanchoCucamunga9-1-06/rancho1_35.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You're right I'm sure the CVs aren't that tough, it's probably not worth the cash to put an arb in the front...

I do plan to carry 1 or 2 brand new CVs with me because I know they break.

9 or 10 leaf deavers would probably be better than the 8 it seems.

What rear suspension setup do you have in that photo you posted?
 

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I don't want to talk you out of something you want, or will otherwise need. It's simply my :2cents:

I was running a Deaver 9Leaf pack, stock shackles, and custom mounted 12" short body Bilstein 7100's. 13" of Travel, bump to bump. It did very well for what it was. The 9leaf and Bilstein 7100's with 255/70 valving tilted backwards a little, they rode just like the front did with the Donahoe front coil-overs. I didn't run a sway-bar either.

You can see a bit more information on the Tacoma at www.nowwgasa.net.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I started this thread so that I wouldn't end up wasting money, and I'd find out what else I needed to complete the build, and I think you're probably right IFS and a locker are probably prone to breakage.

I'd rather not have to much custom fab work done, to keep the cost down... Bilstein 5100s in the stock mounts with stock shackles and an extended brake line and adjusted brake proportioning valve, new U bolts and bushings should work from what I've read.

Anything else I need to know before I put Donahoe coil overs up front? Did you remove the sway bar completely? My truck will be a daily driver so I'm not sure if I'd want to do that.
 

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I daily drove mine and put 50K on the truck while it had the lift without the sway bar. Just a little different getting used to. Make/buy some quick connects for the sway bar links and you are made, just tie them up when you disconnect the sway bar... they do bad things to cv boots if left un-attended!

I loved the Donahoe coilovers, hated the uniball UCA's, but that's a whole different story. My buddy is still using the coilovers and Donahoe rebuilt both, replaced a couple parts for free/cheap and I believe there are atleast 100K or more on them now.

Looks like you are pretty much set.

What kind of wheelin are you going to be doing? Rocks, trails, mud? I'm assuming no desert high speed stuff due to the arb and winch on the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd like to beef up the end cap of the frame before I put the ARB + winch on there too, I've hear it tends to distort after some heavy winching...

Sway quick disconnects seem like a good idea...

I see you bought the Camburg UCAs, how did you like them?

Not alot of rocks around here, mostly just OHV trails and trunk roads,
 

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It is a good idea to beef up the end caps for the ARB/winch. There are various ways of doing it. You should be able to find the info on here pretty easy by a couple searches.

After a while, I got tired of dealing with the squeeking UCA's. They had zerk fittings yet, the only time they would not squeek is when I had just greased them or I put new bushings in. I had to replace the uniball once, though changing bushings or a uniball is not hard, its annoying to have to do.

IMO Just stick with the Donahoe Coil-overs and you will be fine if you don't go over 2-2.5" of lift. The uniball UCA's change your roll center, but how much I can't say. That being said, I did put the 04 on its side on a tree. LOL
 

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dlarrivee said:
Well I started this thread so that I wouldn't end up wasting money, and I'd find out what else I needed to complete the build, and I think you're probably right IFS and a locker are probably prone to breakage.
Is building up the IFS so it's not so prone to breakage more cost effective for a moderate wheeler then doing a SAS? With and without a front locker.
 

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Voimakas said:
Is building up the IFS so it's not so prone to breakage more cost effective for a moderate wheeler then doing a SAS? With and without a front locker.
Is that supposed to be a question or a statement? A moderate wheeler really should be fine with IFS... Its reliable if you take care of it and don't drive like you have D60's under it.
 

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Voimakas said:
Is building up the IFS so it's not so prone to breakage more cost effective for a moderate wheeler then doing a SAS? With and without a front locker.
No! See you threw the word 'moderate wheeler' in there and there's no need for a front locker when you are a moderate wheeler (expecially with IFS). Do you already have a rear locker?
A SAC is expensive and a lot of work and/or both. And the price goes up from there when you start taking the kind of axles you want into consideration. You'll need to be busting cv's right and left on wheeling trips before justifying a SAC. But I'm with you, it's fine to dream.
 

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Might want to consider some decent skids if the plan is to really use the bumpers and sliders.

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'd like to run on board air for inflating tires and possibly the ARB (still on the fence about that)...

I don't expect to run power tools or anything, but is a tank really necessary?
 

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A tank really depends on what OBA setup you have. I love my York compressor and 5 gal tank. When I flat bed I'm going to add more air volume... but I also run air tools and have 37" tires to fill up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wgasa84 after you installed the coils and new rear suspension, did you have stock tires on at all? Does it look strange?
 

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My buddy is running stock tire size with a 2" bodylift and it looks a tad odd, nothing too weird though. I don't have a picture unforunetly.

I went from 31's to 33's straight off the bat.
 

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I run the deaver 8-leaf pack with OME n85 shocks and it rides great. After a year of having them on they did settle a bit but anything from crawling to higher speed stuff has worked out pretty good IMO. Stock mounting points too FWIW. I also tend to carry a 50lb toolchest and a full spare in the bed at least and it doesn't hang me up.

I still had the stock tires on after I did my suspension and it did look weird. No pictures either but at least for me it's for a reason. It's not like you intend to run that look for long.
 
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