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Discussion Starter #1
I have a axle built for my 04 trd tacoma with push button 4wd shifter. If I'm correct there is a shift motor in my t-case to disconnect the front drive shaft and a shift motor in the front diff. I already made a control box with relays for my front elocker, but I am wondering if the wiring for the front add which will be removed could be used to control the elocker, all that would be needed is a switch to break the 12 volts or ground from the t-case motor going to the add plug? Any way There is a motor in my t-case correct havent looked to see if my drivshaft allways spins. That would suck if my front diff and logfeild were spining all the time!!! Some tacomas have a vacumm actuated add so this would not apply to them.
 

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I had ADD on my truck and still have push button 4wd. I was concerned about the same thing but it wasn't a problem. I thought the 2 were linked too but apparently they aren't :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When you push the 2/4 selector button the transfer case shifts to 4wd. A switch on the shift motor of the transfercase then turns on the relays to lock the ADD, another shift motor on the front diff. Then the drive shaft is locked on both ends. I useded ADD relays and wiring to lock my front elocker. To do so I added a switch that is normaly open to prevent the front locker from locking when 4wd is turned on. Once the circuit is completed by my added switch and the transfercase shift motor switch the add computer locks the front locker. I will post a diagram. I also have my 4wd light working, and a led added that comes on when the front locker has ingauged. I used a ECT switch although a rr diff lock switch would be nice to. You must also splice a elocker harness to the add harness.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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When you push the 2/4 selector button the transfer case shifts to 4wd. A switch on the shift motor of the transfercase then turns on the relays to lock the ADD, another shift motor on the front diff. Then the drive shaft is locked on both ends. I useded ADD relays and wiring to lock my front elocker. To do so I added a switch that is normaly open to prevent the front locker from locking when 4wd is turned on. Once the circuit is completed by my added switch and the transfercase shift motor switch the add computer locks the front locker. I will post a diagram. I also have my 4wd light working, and a led added that comes on when the front locker has ingauged. I used a ECT switch although a rr diff lock switch would be nice to. You must also splice a elocker harness to the add harness.
Do you know what wire specifically you used to make the 4wd light come on?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Norcal, to make your 4wd light come on all you need to do is cut the Green/white wire. Then connect the vehical end (not the end connected to the add control box) to the Red Blue wire. You can just cut the Red Blue wire and then splice the 2 ends w/ the green/white wire all together. The white green wire is a ground closed by the add control for the light which is activated when the diff is locked. The Red Blue wire is a ground that is closed when the transerfer case is locked. ALSO the add box is not the 4wd box located at the drivers kick panel. It is located behind the power sockets under the radio. All you need to do to remove it is take out the to compression pins on the sides and pull it straight out, it is also held by to push in clips. I am going to still post a diagram, which shows
1 ADD used for front elocker w/ LED for confirmed lock
2 2LO
3 Rear locker anytime
4 working 4wd light
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Maybe it's just me, but maybe it would be easiest to simulate that the ADD sw is in the closed posistion at EB3, and just jump the w/b and g/b to get the 4wd light to come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wouldnt the 4wd light would be on all the time? You could jump red from the 2/4 select switch to eb3 green black. In any case that wouldn't work for me, because once the add detection switch closes I woulnd't be able to use the control to lock my locker, that isn't a issue if your not using it to lock a locker. You could also use a relay at eb3, the coil would be connected to R/B and W/B. Then W/B and G/B would be connected to common & N/O contacts.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Well, doesn't the light come on with the transfer case goes into 4wd, and when the ADD is locked?

My trasfer case locks when I hit the button, but my ADD "never locks".
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you look at the diagram it goes on when the add locks, which only happens when the transfer case is locked, not really the conjuction of the two combined, its not like two inline switches rather a series of evens that take place. Just do the first mod I mentioned. It is easy and wont hurt anything, it will do exactly what your trying to accomplish.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Finally just did it. My wire was solid red instead of Red-W like shown on the diagram. I just ended up running a orm meter from the 4wd switch, to the pins for the 4wd ecu. Found the wire, and tapped the green with white in there.

Works! Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the bump, Phil... I was thinking about this the other day... I saved my ADD harness just so I could jump those two wires... I've been 'stuck' two or three times because of not being in 4WD... sounds dumb, but when you switch in and out, sometimes you forget and having that light back will be great--it usually takes me kicking in the front locker and having it make no difference is usually what lets me know the front ain't pullin! :D Thanks Max for taking the time to get the info out there!
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Thanks for the bump, Phil... I was thinking about this the other day... I saved my ADD harness just so I could jump those two wires... I've been 'stuck' two or three times because of not being in 4WD... sounds dumb, but when you switch in and out, sometimes you forget and having that light back will be great--it usually takes me kicking in the front locker and having it make no difference is usually what lets me know the front ain't pullin! :D Thanks Max for taking the time to get the info out there!
What wires at the ADD hardness are you talking about?

The splice occurs at the 4wd computer. I thought this computer was behind the kickpanel at the driver side feet area, but that is the locker computer. The 4wd ECU is right below the trim piece under the radio area, right on top of the airbag ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What wires at the ADD hardness are you talking about?

The splice occurs at the 4wd computer. I thought this computer was behind the kickpanel at the driver side feet area, but that is the locker computer. The 4wd ECU is right below the trim piece under the radio area, right on top of the airbag ecu.
correct
 

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Finally just did it. My wire was solid red instead of Red-W like shown on the diagram. I just ended up running a orm meter from the 4wd switch, to the pins for the 4wd ecu. Found the wire, and tapped the green with white in there.

Works! Thanks!
This is something I need to do, only thing I didn't follow is where the 4wd switch is? Is it located near the 4wd ecu or at the tcase?
 

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What wires at the ADD hardness are you talking about?

The splice occurs at the 4wd computer. I thought this computer was behind the kickpanel at the driver side feet area, but that is the locker computer. The 4wd ECU is right below the trim piece under the radio area, right on top of the airbag ecu.
I was referring to where the ADD harness (short harness from ADD motor) connects too--front left engine at the bottom. I messed with this, and if you connect the green w/blk to the white w/blk wire, it prevents the 4WD motor on the t-case from engaging (I have electric shift 4WD-A/T). If after you are in 4WD, then connect the grn and the wht wires, you get the light on the dash. I thought about a relay, problem is that the ADD motor wires are only powered for a short time, 5 seconds or so (there's also an issue about a missing ADD not reporting that it's in the correct position--I jumped that, still no-go due to the timed motor run length). No easy plug & play solution at the ADD connector... yeah, I had to try it myself. It would work with some special mechanical switching relays that I have from work, a 'smart' relay, or an ADD motor ass'y just hanging about on the frame rail (LOL!). Next time I have the center console apart, I'm gonna do the jumper at the 4WD ECU, thanks again Max!

On a side note, looking at the wiring, when in '4WD' that signal is sent to both the ABS and the ECU as well as the light on the dash... curious about what the ECU does with that information.... A stretch, but after being on the trail for extended period of time (multiple days, long trails, low range), the shifting for the Automatic on my truck becomes 'different', and after being back on road for a while, reverts back to 'normal'; could have something to do with it, who knows!
 

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This is something I need to do, only thing I didn't follow is where the 4wd switch is? Is it located near the 4wd ecu or at the tcase?
Depends... If you have an electric shift transfer case, that switch is on the shifter. If you have a manual shift transfer case, that switch is on the 'case.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is something I need to do, only thing I didn't follow is where the 4wd switch is? Is it located near the 4wd ecu or at the tcase?
Whether you have a 2wd/4wd slector button w/ a shift motor or a manual 4wd shifter there is actually a 4wd detection switch on the transfer case. When placed into 4wd the switch completes a ground for the 4wd ecu. Beening that your front ADD is missing the ecu wont turn the 4wd light on because it needs both the transfer case and diff switch to indicate all the parts are in 4wd. So I simply connected the ground from the transfer case detection switch to the wire that goes to the 4wd light on the dash. My diagram might be confusing because theres several mods in there, 2wdlo, rear diff lock all the time, working 4wd light, and a elocker added in place of add (with added switch and LED for confirmed lock. The changes can be made right at the 4wd ecu under the radio.

You can also just connect G-B to R-L. I couldn't do this because I woudnt be able to lock my font locker then. Norcal came up with some other variations early in the post but once again havent tried them and would work with my locker.
 
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