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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since this is the newbie section I made this install as simple as I could. No welding, no cutting, no splicing of the stock parts.
Dual Optimas

Remove the stock battery
stock battery

Build a tray, out of aluminum angle and flat bars, to hold the 2 new batteries and raise them to clear the stock hold down mounts.
tray1
tray 2

Using the stock plastic tray as a template, make 2 studs to fit in the stock holes to keep the new tray from sliding. (or just screw it down if you want)
template
stock holes

Make a new hold down and get new hold down bolts
hold down

Use the stock hold down locations for the new hold down bolts.

The side posts on the yellow optima: negative bolted on the fender (not the one the stock battery was connected to) and the other goes to the isolator.
This leaves the top posts for adding your accessories.

The stock battery terminals connect to the top posts of the red optima.
Red optima

The short negative wire, that used to bolt to the fender, jumps to the side terminal and a new wire connects the side terminal to the stock negative bolt.
red optima (-)

The posts on the top of the red optima are near the edge of the battery so that the postive wire will reach. The positive side post on the red optima is unused. The isolator feeds the red optima at the main fuse block.


THANKS TO VOLLEY aka TACOMAOFFROADGRL FOR THE INSPIRATION TO DO (STEAL) THIS MOD
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i put it here so i wouldn't get flammed if it was really bad.
 

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CNADNtacoma said:
Since this is the newbie section I made this install as simple as I could. No welding, no cutting, no splicing of the stock parts.
Dual Optimas

Remove the stock battery
stock battery

Build a tray, out of aluminum angle and flat bars, to hold the 2 new batteries and raise them to clear the stock hold down mounts.
tray1
tray 2

Using the stock plastic tray as a template, make 2 studs to fit in the stock holes to keep the new tray from sliding. (or just screw it down if you want)
template
stock holes

Make a new hold down and get new hold down bolts
hold down

Use the stock hold down locations for the new hold down bolts.

The side posts on the yellow optima a negative bolt on the fender (not the one the stock battery was connected to) and the other goes to the isolator.
This leaves the top posts for adding your accessories.

The stock battery terminals connect to the top posts of the red optima.
Red optima

The short negative wire, that used to bolt to the fender, jumps to the side terminal and a new wire connects the side terminal to the stock negative bolt.
red optima (-)

The posts on the top of the red optima are near the edge of the battery so that the postive wire will reach. The positive side post on the red optima is unused. The isolator feeds the red optima at the main fuse block.

And you are a noob!

Props my friend thats bad ass!!

I'm thinking the reason for the yellow top (deep cycle) is for backup power Ay?
 

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I LIVE FOR THIS
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Looks good although i dont know if i would trust just that hold down bracket. Is there anyway to use a utility strap to hold it down the other way? I can only see disaster from side to side movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The yellow battery power all my accessories: 12 volt outlet in the bed, rear work lights, winch, warning lights, and furture add-ons like a bed light, step lights, CB and lights onder the hood.( so I can see when I'm tinkering into the late hours) . Plus if I drain the starting battery I can boost myself with the spare. It's also going to power the spare tire winch when I get around to it. (that hand winch for the spare tire sucks)

so many ideas, so little time.(and money)

I"m thinking about an extra hold down for side to side movement, but the tabs on the tray seem to prevent that for now.

Thanks for all the feedback.
 

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Looks extremely clean, congratulations! That said, if you take your truck off pavement, I myself would not trust just the holddown to keep the batteries from moving fore and aft, and just the angle aluminum of the holddown to keep the extreme left and right edges of the pair held down in the bumps.
 

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which model numbered isolator did you use - i see what looks like a blue sure power one. Last i checked they hadnt made one for our sized alt. but that was a while back. I have one but its bout 20 amps off from our alt. with the tow package.
another question did you use a switch of any kind so you can swap batteries for starting? or does the isolator do that some how if one is dead?
Great write up man!
 

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Going John Galt
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(I like it better with the pics ;)
can you add some with everything all hooked up including the isolator?

Since this is the newbie section I made this install as simple as I could. No welding, no cutting, no splicing of the stock parts.
dual batteries

stock battery


Build a tray, out of aluminum angle and flat bars, to hold the 2 new batteries and raise them to clear the stock hold down mounts.
tray 1

tray 2


Using the stock plastic tray as a template, make 2 studs to fit in the stock holes to keep the new tray from sliding. (or just screw it down if you want)

template



Make a new hold down and get new hold down bolts
hold down


Use the stock hold down locations for the new hold down bolts.

The side posts on the yellow optima a negative bolt on the fender (not the one the stock battery was connected to) and the other goes to the isolator.
This leaves the top posts for adding your accessories.

The stock battery terminals connect to the top posts of the red optima.


The short negative wire, that used to bolt to the fender, jumps to the side terminal and a new wire connects the side terminal to the stock negative bolt.


The posts on the top of the red optima are near the edge of the battery so that the postive wire will reach. The positive side post on the red optima is unused. The isolator feeds the red optima at the main fuse block.
 

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Alumnus maximus
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if you are worried about movement, you could just add another cross piece and some angle on the edges to make a + looking top bracket (if you get what im saying)

nice job on the install!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll probably come up with a better tray and hold down in the spring. I will probably get it welded at a local shop or learn to do it myself. I needed to get the battery installed before its snowed and i'm not a true off roader yet.
I see your piont.

The isolator is from smithae.com model sur13023A. Good for 130 amps.

I'll post pics of the whole set up as soon as the new blue sea fuse block comes in.
 

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The isolator he used is a silicon diode type that only isolates the batteries from each other on the alternator charge side. One input from the alternator charges both batteries but the diodes keep the loads isolated from each other.
Should it become necessary, you can jump start from the aux battery with a simple one wire jump from one positive terminal to the other. To my way of thinking that situation is way too rare to justify buying and installing a switch that can handle starting current plus loosing the under hood space for it and the wiring. You'd also probably introduce more IR drop in the wiring with it and induce more problems than you'd solve with the switch. Sometimes simpler is better.

In most cases, the real purpose of a dual battery setup is to keep high current loads from lights, winches etc. from draining your main truck battery in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The new fuse block is done. here are the pics of the fuse block and isolator.
The black box under the fuses holds my relays.Fuse
isolator
 

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STITCH - Come and Take it!
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Great job there!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
not that i want to show off, but how would it get moved there?
 
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