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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a bit of searching, but I didn't see anything pertaining to my post title.

I'm going to be repairing the rear end of my frame that has the dreaded rot at the forward mounts for the leaf springs, but missed the recall. I'm wondering if using 1/8 mild steel (as opposed to 3/16 or 1/4 which I've seen addressed in my searches) would be good since it's the same thickness as the frame itself. I plan on wrapping it around the frame, atleast on three sides (side, bottom side).

Also, is there a different steel that I should use?
 

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I think boxing the inside might be a better use of your time. If that alone is not enough then I would consider lopping the whole thing off and building a new frame from rectangular tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think boxing the inside might be a better use of your time. If that alone is not enough then I would consider lopping the whole thing off and building a new frame from rectangular tubing.
That being said, would 1/8 steel thickness be sufficient?
 

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No. You may as well use aluminum foil. It would be easier to apply and about as strong. It's the same amount of work to use something strong enough to do some good so why skimp on the material?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd use 3/16" to box the frame. Mild steel should be fine. Hot rolled ($1/lb) is cheaper than cold rolled ($3/lb).
Is there a difference in strength between cold and hot?

No. You may as well use aluminum foil. It would be easier to apply and about as strong. It's the same amount of work to use something strong enough to do some good so why skimp on the material?
My reason for asking about 1/8 isn't coming from a skimping standpoint. The factors that led me to inquire about it are, similar thickness to the frame itself in terms of heat distribution from welding, and not wanting to necessarily cause a stress riser going from vastly stronger where I'd be putting the wrapped plates-to the rest of the frame going forward.

I ain't cheap Dick, but I do put thought into things. And thanks both of you for chiming in...I've been hoping some of the guys I've learned a ton reading the posts of would give some opinions.
 

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Typically sheet steel is either grade AISI 1018 or 1020. You can search online for difference in yield and ultimate strength between the cold rolled and hot rolled varieties of these steel. Matweb.com is a good resource for material properties.

Short answer is cold rolled steel sheet is about 50% stronger than hot rolled.

And the steel Toyota uses should be even stronger alloy that has been heat treated to a particular level of strength and ductility.

I would also box the frame whether or not you also reinforce it on the existing sides.

Look into cutting your plates into a narrowing shape, like a diamond but with a round nose, to make the transition region more gradual, thus helping reduce a stress riser.

P.S.:
Wikipedia is your friend if you want to learn more about yield vs ultimate strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Viter!

I haven't had the time to get started on it yet, been completely behind with work. I finally picked up a welder end of last week. Miller 211.

I've been going along that same line of thought with the rounded edges of plates...where I also thought it would be a good idea is where a section gets cut out, rounding those edges..wherever it's possible. I know I'll be plating over those spots as well, but it seems like a sound way to terminate a cut out.

I'm going to give that site that you mentioned a look. Is it possible to get steel that would be similar to the frame's? Maybe hacking up another frame would be a good way to get it? I might be over thinking on that.

Thanks again.
 
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