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Discussion Starter #1
now for the cross over steering ... i know i might need a dana 44 pass side flat top knuckle to put on 10 bolt front .... how would i go about making a steering system work or buy a kit ... i cant seem to find one online
 

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Why go through the hassle of doing all that when its so much easier to put toyota stuff in it anyways is my question. I thing youll pop them outer axle u-joints quicker than you think. If I were you I would use the FJ80 axle and save yourself some probs down road. If you decide to go with your 10 bold and carry a few spare axles. As said before just get tube and make your own links its too easy and put the 10bolt end things (cant think of name) see how far that goes or drill out to fit d44 stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
keep blowing yoda stuff up used all yoda axles noting holds r&p give's going to a bigger gear size should last not worred bout breakage i would run hy steer but i hear wth my tire size ill just shear the bolts an break the arm
 

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10 bolt? i trust my toyota axle more than i would a damn weak 10 bolt. also why in other post when people suggest axles uve always said stay toyota they hold up to my big ass tires? all that catchin up to you now?
 

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If your destroying yota gears then you will destroy the 10 bolt gears as well, they are the same size, even a dana 44 is the same. You should go tons if your destroying the 8" gear sets.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
60 is in the future but 10 bolt rite now bdont have the spare 1200-*1500 for a dana 60
 

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Discussion Starter #9
toyotas are strong but they just dont handle 40 boggers
 

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60 is in the future but 10 bolt rite now bdont have the spare 1200-*1500 for a dana 60
Then don't work on it till you do have the spare money. Why are you spending money for something that will be replaced soon? You're going to waste your time. :2cents:
 

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Then don't work on it till you do have the spare money. Why are you spending money for something that will be replaced soon? You're going to waste your time. :2cents:
x2 you'll end up spending more money in the long run.

I'm not bashing, just voicing. Still lets see the 10-bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
havent spent money lol been trading spare junk i have around the yard traded a set of junk mud only 40in ground hawgs for half tons front an rear an then traded a 12 bolt rear for a dana 60 / traded my blown 3.0 an tranny an transcase for a 305 an a rebuilt turbo 350 trans 205 case an 100 bucks then traded a 4.88 toyota front with detoit locker for 4.3vortech 8 lug outers floor shiter trans cooler dana 44 chevy flat top knuckle pair of 15x12 8lug wheels for rear an pair of 15x12 6lugs to run rite now an get itrolling still gotta find another set of 15x12 8lugs for front an also 4.88's for the 10 bolt sry i havent spent any money lol
 

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Is there any consideration to trade down to a 37" or so tire? If you want reliability, and a fairly cheap to build axle 10bolt/d44. It would certainly help a stock 10 bolt last a little longer, wouldn't need to dump near as much into it to keep it alive.

If 40" tires are a must, and it was mine. I would go 35 splined RCV axle shafts, trussed housing, trussed knuckles, new ball joints. It might hold togather for while. One of the local rock crawling teams switched to RCV axle shafts and noted that their ball joints started lasting an entire season.

:2cents:

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #15
dont got any 37s an what u mean rcv's
 

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I'm still running the 10 bolt front, 4:56's Auburn elocker and 36x14.50x15's

I'm using one ton tie rod ends, and fabricated my own tie rod and drag link..
>>>> these

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

I wheel hard, but smart, using the front locker sparingly... only to clear a ledge with the wheels straight and light throttle..

Anything bigger than 36's and I'm sure I would be breaking axles and gears..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
im prob gonna make mine
 
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