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I always run 10w30 in the summer months and drop to 5w30 in the winter months.

Even with our temps here in PA a 10w oil falls within the specs given in the owners manual to be able to run.
 

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I use 5w30 synthetic all year round even when she drops to -30
 

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I have done an oil analysis on both 5w30 and 10w30 at 5000 miles. The 10w30 holds up better with viscosity, meaning it doesn't thicken as much. the 5w30 was almost a 40wt oil after 5k.
The TBN was higher with the 10w30. TBN being the Total Base Number. Higher is better and refers to the ability of the oil to neutralize the acids in the oil. Once the TBN is really low, you will get increased wear.
 

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toytaco702 said:
I have done an oil analysis on both 5w30 and 10w30 at 5000 miles. The 10w30 holds up better with viscosity, meaning it doesn't thicken as much. the 5w30 was almost a 40wt oil after 5k.
The TBN was higher with the 10w30. TBN being the Total Base Number. Higher is better and refers to the ability of the oil to neutralize the acids in the oil. Once the TBN is really low, you will get increased wear.
Are you running synthetic or dino? I have been switching back and forth between 10w30 and 5w30 and have been thinking about just staying with 10w all year round.
 

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BLT2RCKTRD said:
5w30 is much easier on a cold startup.
Yeah, I thought about that too, but I live in Atlanta and run Mobil 1 full synthetic, so to my way of thinking the 10w synthetic most likely flows better than a 5w dino anyways...plus it doesn't get extremely cold down here. So I guess I'd rather have the stability of a 10w, but just wanted to get some more input.
 

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I was worried about start up too but I also use Mobil1 syn so I don't think it would cange much. I'm just asking about the difference in the long run.
 

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Superglide said:
I was worried about start up too but I also use Mobil1 syn so I don't think it would cange much. I'm just asking about the difference in the long run.
Honestly I think you'll be better off with 10w M1 in the long run. I haven't done any UOA though, so I don't have anything to back that statement up.
 

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toytaco702 said:
I have done an oil analysis on both 5w30 and 10w30 at 5000 miles. The 10w30 holds up better with viscosity, meaning it doesn't thicken as much. the 5w30 was almost a 40wt oil after 5k.
The TBN was higher with the 10w30. TBN being the Total Base Number. Higher is better and refers to the ability of the oil to neutralize the acids in the oil. Once the TBN is really low, you will get increased wear.
What type of oil did you run this test on synthetic or not.
 

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Use 5W-30!!!. After all, that's what the engineers who designed your engine say to use. Why try and second guess them?

5W-30 works perfectly in climates that range from -40F to over 120F.

If you use 5w-30 and do regular scheduled changes, your engine will probably outlast the rest of your truck.
 

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Alaskan Assassin said:
Use 5W-30!!!. After all, that's what the engineers who designed your engine say to use. Why try and second guess them?

5W-30 works perfectly in climates that range from -40F to over 120F.

If you use 5w-30 and do regular scheduled changes, your engine will probably outlast the rest of your truck.
Thats what I am saying. :D
 

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BLT2RCKTRD said:
What type of oil did you run this test on synthetic or not.
Both were Mobil 1 synthetic.
For cold start-ups, 5w30 doesn't begin to flow better until its about 10 below zero or colder.
If you have hot summers, 10w30 will be better for the summer heat. It won't thicken as much as the oil gets some use.
In my analysis, the 5w30 had thickened to almost a 40w oil, but the 10w30 stayed at a 30w.
 

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toytaco702 said:
Both were Mobil 1 synthetic.
For cold start-ups, 5w30 doesn't begin to flow better until its about 10 below zero or colder.
If you have hot summers, 10w30 will be better for the summer heat. It won't thicken as much as the oil gets some use.
In my analysis, the 5w30 had thickened to almost a 40w oil, but the 10w30 stayed at a 30w.
Sounds like you are using the wrong oil.

I have run AMSOIL in my truck for as long as 18,000 miles and when tested it was still a 30w oil at 100 C.
 

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Superglide said:
Local dealer recommends 10w30 but manual says 5w30? Anyone else in or near Virginia using 10w30?
He's telling you that cuz that's what he has in the drums behind his shop.

ALL-
Just use this for ALL climates from Alaska to Florida. You do not need to know anything further about oil.

10W-30 = Good
5W-30 = Better
0-30W = Best

-Chris
 

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PismoBoy24 said:
He's telling you that cuz that's what he has in the drums behind his shop.

ALL-
Just use this for ALL climates from Alaska to Florida. You do not need to know anything further about oil.

10W-30 = Good
5W-30 = Better
0-30W = Best

-Chris
I would have to disagree with your claim that 0w30 is best and don't think you should be telling people that. 0w is much more susceptible to shearing and will not provide the protection you need to run extended drain intervals.
 

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Well, not all motor oils are the same. Some are better then others. I have run the AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 in my supercharged truck for as long as 18,000 miles and the oil test clearly showed that there was plenty of time left on the oil and the was no indication at all that the oil was not doing its job. In fact the wear metals were half of what I had on another so called synthetic product at only 3000 miles.

The proof is in the pudding...
 

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I noticed on the shelf at Murrys auto parts today that Mobil 1 has a 0w30 "race" oil for sale, for like 3 bucks more a quart than their 0w30 "normal" Mobil 1. Different additives justify the cost or what?
 

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camaddy said:
I would have to disagree with your claim that 0w30 is best and don't think you should be telling people that. 0w is much more susceptible to shearing and will not provide the protection you need to run extended drain intervals.
Bah, I agree w/ Gadget. And I'd like to add that I change my oil once a year, and still even at that, the rest of the truck will wear out long before my engine ever wears out.
-Chris
 
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