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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, so it looks like she's getting torn apart again! Not overly satisfied with the 5mge, so I'm putting in a 1uzfe! Don't get me wrong, the 5m was a huge improvement over the 22re in terms of power, but it needed some major work and for the time and effort, I'm going with a better and newer engine :)

So here's the story. Been tossing around engine swap ideas for a while. I was originally going to get a 6m and call it a day, but they are virtually impossible to get, and the chance that you do find one, it's located on the other side of the world :p So I said screw that, how about a 5m-gte? Throw a turbo on my motor and be done with it? After lots of reading and discussion, decided that wouldn't be smart and I'd probably blow up the engine. So then it seemed I'd settled on the 7m-gte, but scrapped that idea when I couldn't find a suitable way to mount an intercooler without it being in the way, or getting damaged when wheeling.

So that brings me to today. I bought a 93 Lexus SC400 down near Seattle for 800 bucks, about 171k miles on it. The car was wrecked, got the front end clipped in an intersection, but the engine still ran, and I drove it most of the way onto the trailer before it ran out of gas :p The guy was trying to get rid of it asap because he had 2 wheels stolen, the gas siphoned out, and the battery stolen. Ended up bringing a battery down just to make sure it ran, and sure enough it fired up after a few cranks (it had been sitting for a few months).

So, tomorrow I bring the car back across the border, and all of the parts have been ordered. I got the swap kit from 1uzfeswapkit.com, which has the adapter, hydraulic throwout bearing, custom flywheel, pilot bearing, and the hoses and other hardware to make it work. It's supposed to make this pretty much a bolt in affair, so we'll see how it goes. I also ordered an Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch for the 3SGTE engine (to match the custom flywheel). I had to get a clutch that had at least a 2000lb rating, and no stock/oem clutch for the 3SGTE or 3VZ had that kind of holding power, so I had to go a step up. It got a lot of good reviews, so we'll see.

I also got a timing belt kit and some other tune up items, just because it's a million times easier to do it with the engine out. I'll be stripping the car down tomorrow and preparing to pull the engine this weekend hopefully.

About the only thing I have to fabricate will be the frame side mounts for the engine. A few guys said to just reuse the engine bracket because it's much easier that way, and after seeing some pics I agree with them. I will also be keeping the AC :D (Never had AC before in any of my rigs, so this will be reaaaaaalllly nice!)

Provided I don't have any hang ups, or have to wait forever for parts to get here, I should have the swap done by the end of June, maybe first half of July. I work seasonal jobs so I have some time off between now and my next job, so I want to get it done in that time frame, as well as finishing up a course so I can go back to school in the fall :D

I'll keep all the updates in here, and hopefully remember to take lots of pics and post them. My apologies for the massive post, but figured it was easier to just lay out the whole plan in 1 post

:saw::welder:

 

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:xpopcorn2
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got the car in the driveway today, going to start pulling it apart over the next few days and hopefully get the engine out on the weekend! Went through the border without any issues, so that was nice :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why do you feel the need for a 2000lb clutch?
That's what a lot of the guys who have done it before recommend, and seemed to be a general consensus on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the engine yanked today :D

 

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I also got a timing belt kit and some other tune up items, just because it's a million times easier to do it with the engine out.
I just drilled out all the spot welds on the core support and made it bolt on. Much easier to access all that stuff when it becomes necessary.


You will love that engine. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's actually a really good idea. I have the top piece just above the rad half cut out and made a bolt in piece, you can see it at the bottom of this pic by the rad cap. Makes getting the engine in and out easier, and is the only way I could get the rad in and out without getting the back all messed up.



I'm going to be cleaning the engine up today, and probably doing the timing belt
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The adapter kit arrived today! Now I'm just waiting for a few other things to get here to put the engine back together. Getting the alternator and starter checked out by a local guy who is the master with those things. Working on the timing belt, the crank bolt is being a real pain. The V was sure full of crap, got it cleaned out today too. Here's a before pic:
 

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Another thing you might consider since you have that all off is drilling out the threads on the starter and use a nut and bolt and reverse them. The way the factory designed it you could never get those bolts backed out when it's in the truck if you needed to change the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah it was pretty nasty in there, and there's no real way to clean it without taking everything above it off. And that's a decent idea about the starter, might have to look into that.

A note to anyone taking out the injectors: be careful. The clips like to break when you go to take the wires off. I ended up just leaving them connected and moved them out of the way. Probably going to have to use a silicon or something on the one to keep it held in
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Might have to look into that. Is it necessary to clean out the injectors? Other than that I can't think of why I'd need to disconnect them.

So I ran into not really a problem, but something that is dumb. In order to delete the hydraulic fan setup, I bought the dummy idler bracket from a sequoia. This removes the hydraulic pump from the engine. However, it didn't come with the pulley that bolts on to it, and the only way I can find it online is through an oem dealer type site, and they want 50 bucks for the pulley :/ Hopefully I can find one locally, I can't justify 50 bucks on just a pulley lol.

Engine is starting to come back together, got the valve covers painted, they look reaaaaalllly nice. I tried cleaning/polishing them, but they were still spotty, so I ended up painting them. I'll get some pics up later :D

*Edit* Pics might come later... Got impatient and didn't use a torque wrench and cracked the valve covers... *rage*
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Replied :)

What I didn't know is that the ls400 uses a clutch fan, so I got a bracket and pulley setup on ebay that should work fine. The sequoia bracket also didn't allow the plastic cover over the distributor cap to fit right. Also a bonus, the guy who I got the bracket from also had a pair of valve covers, and is shipping it with the bracket, so that worked out :D

Also, here's a sneak peak of the colour I decided on. The lighting makes it look a little different than it actually looks, it turned out really good. I'll have more pics when the engine is all back together. It's an anodized red, and is going to really look well with the black plastic covers on the engine. I'm planning on making the ridges on the top of the intake black aswell. The aluminum paint looked really sharp, but this will just make it "pop" when you open the hood :D
 

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On that old of an engine, i would get the injectors cleaned and flushed.

Paradiseracing.com does them for $10 per injector (most places are $15 - 20)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
On that old of an engine, i would get the injectors cleaned and flushed.

Paradiseracing.com does them for $10 per injector (most places are $15 - 20)
Yeah, probably a good idea. I'm just going to find someone local to do it though, that way I wont have to ship them out and I can have them back in a couple days
 
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