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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i have been looking at lifts since before i got my 07 taco. I realy won tthe DR kit with the rear shocks but the price is starting to make me think about ether options. What is a good lift that will work grate all around. I am looking for a coil over kit that is rebuildable for the times that your shocks my need to be preplaced. (SAVE $$ IN THE LONG RUN, RIGHT?) And if I am out weeling with you guys you have a good idea of what I will be doing with them. But I am still looking at the DR's because I like all the reveaws but just tring to see if there is anything else out there that will get me the save or better for less. O and yes I have been searching and looking since July of last year.
 

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try fab-tech performance coilovers i got them about a month and a half ago and they are great. nice ride off the road and on as well as being rebuildable. mine is for a 2001 but they make a similar kit for the new ones. i got them for about 1000
 

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Most of the rebuildable coilovers are pricey. From what I recall, Sway a Ways (SAWs) are just about the cheapest, especially if you go with the 2" diameter shock. Kings, Hoes, Fabtech.....all lots of $$$$.

Alot of it depends on how hardcore you plan on off-roading. I think the 2" SAWs would meet the needs of most average trail-blazers/wheelers. With the 2.5" you get a bit more performance, and a bit more cooling ability, which is important of you're doing a ton of desert racing and/or pushing your truck pretty hard on the trails. And they usually have a nice bling factor :rolleyes:

Another thing to consider for rebuildable shocks is whether you will do it yourself, or ship it off to someone to do the work. Make sure you keep a backup coilover assembly on hand to swap out when you're rebuilding.

If you're still exploring other options that might be more cost effective, check out OME. Their setups aren't rebuildable, but they make great stuff (and have been doing so for a long time) and pretty good prices. I have OME all the way around on mine, I'm pretty happy with it. You'll save hundreds over the Hoes, leaving you money for other important things (protection, your rear suspension, etc.). Bilstein has good stuff too - and they have a new 5100 series front shock for these trucks that allows for adjusting ride height.

- matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
HEHE starting this up gain... Well My DR's on on the way. Yes I went with donahoe. What is every ones recommendation on hight? I have read dont go above 2.5 because they are to stiff, so that Is as high as I was looking at. I may go to 3 once I get the control arms.
 

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HEHE starting this up gain... Well My DR's on on the way. Yes I went with donahoe. What is every ones recommendation on hight? I have read dont go above 2.5 because they are to stiff, so that Is as high as I was looking at. I may go to 3 once I get the control arms.
I have mine set between 2.25 and 2.5. I just watched the CV boots. You don't want the fins to touch.... And yes, the higher you crank them, the more you preload the spring, the stiffer the ride will be.
 

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I may go to 3 once I get the control arms.
Having just got a set of Fabtech 3.5" ( I don't recomend them by the way, I'm pretty sure angle iron would give a softer ride) and jacking them up, _then_ reading up on it, and backing off to 2.5"...

x2 on don't let the fins touch.

After that, start looking at manual hub conversion. By disengaging the front hubs, the front axles don't spin and that reduces the wear on the c/v boots. Because your c/v boots don't take any normal wear/tear while around town, it's not as important for your fins to remain clear and you can go higher.

The UCA's come in with the amount of droop you get afterwards. The stock (ok, for the 02) UCA's get at a nasty angle and don't let the ball joints articulate enough to get full droop. From what I've read, you can get about another 1" of droop with the UCA upgrade.

I could be wrong here and solicit correction, but that's what I understood from numerous posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will I just got off the phone with all-pro and the parts to lift the rear are on the way. It only took then a damn week but at lease they are coming at last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well half the parts showed up today. :mad: I am still waiting on the u-bolt flip kit. :mad: I was hopping to put it on this week but so much for that. I will post some photos later tonight of the shocks and leaf pack for every one else that may be looking at this all pro kit. The u-bold flip kit will be here on thursday so I will get it all together some time next week. :xcrybaby: :welder:
 

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So what's your plan for shock relocation, if you're flipping the u-bolts? I can snap some pics of my setup if you want... I turned out real good, and it was cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was not planning on it. The u-bold flip kit just came with the package I got. I really did not care if it came with it or not. Should I change them, and if so why? What are the pros and what are the cons?
 

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Well...your lower shock mount is currently your u-bolt plate...SO...if you do away with that, and flip them, you no longer have a lower shock mount. Unless the All-Pro top plate has a shock mount, which I don't believe it does, you have to do something else with your shocks.

EDIT: A shock relocation also provides for more travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
what's your thoughts on this. I am on the phone with All-pro and they say they have a mount that relocates them to the axle.
 

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They have a mount on the top plate, or they have a mount that's seperate? If they have a different mount, you will probably have to weld them on. Also, if it's on the top plate, then you lose travel because the mount travels up the diameter of the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
they weld right on to the axle.

Edit: had wrong part on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Where should I mount them? Like this?


By the way this project is starting to scare me. :eek: I am getting way over my head.
 

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You can do the lift without the u-bolt flip... But really, it's not too big of a deal if you just plan everything carefully, and get somebody who's skills you trust to weld for you. Or if you trust yourself to weld it, then it's really not a big deal at all. Let me get some pics of my setup for ya....
 

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True. And hey, if you don't want it, you can sell it to me. I made my own top plate for my flip....but I'm afraid that it's not strong enough, since it looks slightly bent...So I was thinking about buying an actual flip kit.
 

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Having just got a set of Fabtech 3.5" ( I don't recomend them by the way, I'm pretty sure angle iron would give a softer ride) and jacking them up, _then_ reading up on it, and backing off to 2.5"...

From what I've read, you can get about another 1" of droop with the UCA upgrade.

I could be wrong here and solicit correction, but that's what I understood from numerous posts.
Dual Rate....Dual Rate...Dual Rate....
I'm pretty sure you're right. Control arm gives 0.5" droop and if you get extended shocks, +0.5" droop=1"
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
True. And hey, if you don't want it, you can sell it to me. I made my own top plate for my flip....but I'm afraid that it's not strong enough, since it looks slightly bent...So I was thinking about buying an actual flip kit.
well I am going over to matts place to do all this on wednesday next week. We where taking about this last night and he informed me that his dad is a grate welder so we will see where it go's. But I could use some more photo's of how other people set there's up. I just get nervous when it comes to welding on something as important as shocks.
 
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