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669 Posts
On Jeff's rig he did what you said and put the longer link up on top and the short on the bottom. you better have a hp axle, or your driveshaft will be the first thing to hit. it drove fine, but he switched it back around. if you go this route make sure you use at least 2"x.375 wall for those lowers, they will get beat. (dick's are .5" thick)
we use 1 1/4" heims or Jimmy Joints (bling heims), for the upper joints and 'X' joints for the axle mounts. Going to try out the Currie joints jason used next time, since we've exploded a few 'X' joints already. just dont use bushings anywhere... they suck and will need to be replaced if you flog it. On Dick's he used the stock type radius arm bushing setup and the axle mounts are solid machined steel w/ 3/4" grade 8 bolts. the arms bolt to modified ford 'c's which have two 5/16" plates welded to the out sides of them. the 'c's then bolt onto the axle w/ the standard radius arm bushings.
we use 1 1/4" heims or Jimmy Joints (bling heims), for the upper joints and 'X' joints for the axle mounts. Going to try out the Currie joints jason used next time, since we've exploded a few 'X' joints already. just dont use bushings anywhere... they suck and will need to be replaced if you flog it. On Dick's he used the stock type radius arm bushing setup and the axle mounts are solid machined steel w/ 3/4" grade 8 bolts. the arms bolt to modified ford 'c's which have two 5/16" plates welded to the out sides of them. the 'c's then bolt onto the axle w/ the standard radius arm bushings.
