[TBob]

So I installed it last night (thanks Grumpy for looking up Dicks post)
I have a few questions now that I have it.
1- I’m thinking one can flip the switch(turn off hubs) while in 4lo without hurting anything but turning the hubs back on one should be at a complete stop or out of 4lo completely?
2- The switch I bought was a lighted one(3 prong) – anyway I can make it work?
3- If I’m able to disengage the hubs how is that different from having manual hubs and unlocking them?

Thanks,
TBob

 

[KSdblcab]

Hey TBob

1- I believe the 2lo mod doesn't actually turn the hubs off, it instead disconnects the front differential as in 2hight, but now just allows for the gear reduction in 2 wheel to aid in turning, etc.

2- switch should work, need a power source from fuse box, ground, and hot wire to 4x4 switch?

3- see "1" (and I may be wrong), but the front cvs are still turning, the front differential is just not engaged. Hope that confuses... I mean helps you.

 

[TBob]

Hey TBob


2- switch should work, need a power source from fuse box, ground, and hot wire to 4x4 switch?

Since the mod is just interupting one wire to the ADD I was afraid to add power. My switch is only a 3 prong. What does ADD stand for?


Thanks - TBob

 

[absolut taco]

What does ADD stand for?

Automatic Disconnecting Differential

Or

Attention Deficit Disorder

 

[Yeti]

Bob, im pretty sure I can answer your questions. Just curious do you have the push button tcase or the manual one?

1-expanding on what KSdblcab said: Both hubs are splined right to the axle shaft so theyre always connected, no hub unlock action at that point. On the passenger side(? maybe driver not important really) axleshaft there are splines and a sleeve that slides over them to engage the shaft to the diff. When the t-case is in 4 the front driveline spins and turns the diff which would normaly turn a wheel then but if the switch for that sleeve is interrupted then it wont engage both axles. So as the way a diff works all the power gets sent over to that shaft that isnt engaged and spins it, not sending power to the one wheel that is connected to the diff and letting it spin freely. If you had a locker the diff would send power to both wheels and so the driver side wheel would get powered but the pass. side would still turn free.

2- youd have to jump the wire from the input over to the light input also,(but I think your switch has the light powered by the current coming through it, not its own powered light) but then it would only come on when 4wheel is engaged becuase power is sent through those wires only when in 4. And the way most switches are is when the switch is in the closed position the light comes on, you want the light on when the circuit is open right? That would take some roundabout wiring or a switch with its own power source for the light and a light that comes on when the switch is off.

I instead of interrupting those wires tried using the switch to ground one and I dont think they work like that. Unless I had the 12v and Gnd mixed and tried gounding the ground and thats why nothing happend.. hmm anyway

3- ADD hubs are always connected to the axle shafts and one side to the diff, the other gets joined/unjoined by the spline sleeve.