TTORA Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a black 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. This is my daily driving vehicle so I want a smooth highway ride as well as a very capable off road rig. I live in the country and out a pretty long dirt driveway that takes a AWD vehicle to get up most of the year, but I have a decent daily freeway commute so I want to be able to go 75 or so and not feel like I am going to tip over. I do not have very much mechanical experience, but I have a friend who is a mechanic and said it would be a piece of cake to help me install whatever I want. Please make any recommendations or suggestions to my build below. I am pretty much trying to do the best build I can without spending more then $4000 or so initially. The suspension and getting bigger tires on it is my first goal. Here is the current build I am looking at:

Pair of Donahoe Coilovers
Camburg Engineering Uni-Ball Upper Control Arm Set
2” lift Deaver Racing High Performance Rear Leaf Spring Set
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shock Set
Wheeler's Tacoma Stock Height Greasable Shackle Set
Greasable Main Spring Eye Bushing Set
DOT extended rear brake line 19” HD Stainless Braided
Need recommendation on brand and size of tires and wheels I should use.

Now I have a couple questions:

Is this the correct type of suspension I should be looking at for my needs?

What would be better parts to go with?

How much more lift beyond this would I have to do to put 35s on it or should 33s be plenty big enough?

What other parts should I add or subtract to make this build better?

It seems like the only rear shock options I have seen for the most part are the Bilstein 5100. Are there other and/or better options?

Should I or do I need to get the Donahoe Racing Tacoma Spacer leveling kit or a 1” differential drop spacer?

How much different would the Total Chaos package be? Would it provide more or less travel?

How will the stability of this vehicle be on the highway and on windy paved roads?

How much will the suspension and tires affect gas mileage? Will it decrease a lot?

With this build will it be easy to make future upgrades?

Can I expect a shorter life span of my truck?

In the future I am hoping to add both a front and rear air locker (ARB most likely), ARB bull bars and a 9000lb wench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
woah... ill try to take this one...

1) you cant go wrong with hoes and that setup
2) same as above
3) to fit 33's youll wanna add a 2-3" body lift on top or
to fit 35's 3" bl plus pounding your pinchweld or tubbing the fender OR doing a drop bracket suspension lift like the fabtech, trailmaster, tuffcountry, or procomp
4) seems like you have everything straigtened out. make sure you have all the tools to do it if youre doing it yourself
5) bilseins are just fine
6) you dont and cant add a spacer on coilovers. you dont need a diff drop, its really just useless
7) the tc package is good if youre into high speed desert stuff
8) with the hoes youll be golden, but truck control is totally dependent on driver skill
9) im at 14-16 mpg on my 33's with a v6 and stock 4.10 gears
10) what do you mean by "future" upgrades?
11) just make sure to check your balljoints and cvs. but as long as youre not abusing your truck on a constant basis you should be fine. with anything on a car just do routine maintence.
12) the hoes should handle the arb bumper and winch fine.

and for all the parts check with jason demello www.demello-offroad.com he can hook you up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How difficult would it be to put the Bilstein 7100s in the rear and which version of the 7100s do I order? Do I want the Downey Heavy Duty Spring Shackles or the Rubicon Spring shackles and how difficult will the tailpipe modification be? I think I am going to go with the Deaver 8 or 9 leaf set because of my camper shell. Will the 9 leaf set make my ride to stiff? Which leaf set would you recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
ShadyRevelation said:
How difficult would it be to put the Bilstein 7100s in the rear and which version of the 7100s do I order? Do I want the Downey Heavy Duty Spring Shackles or the Rubicon Spring shackles and how difficult will the tailpipe modification be? I think I am going to go with the Deaver 8 or 9 leaf set because of my camper shell. Will the 9 leaf set make my ride to stiff? Which leaf set would you recommend?
send those questions to demello and he will hook you right up since hed know more about the shocks and springs.

as for the tail pipe... just use one of these http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=216 :p
 

·
Going John Galt
Joined
·
31,843 Posts
ShadyRevelation said:
I have a black 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. This is my daily driving vehicle so I want a smooth highway ride as well as a very capable off road rig. I live in the country and out a pretty long dirt driveway that takes a AWD vehicle to get up most of the year, but I have a decent daily freeway commute so I want to be able to go 75 or so and not feel like I am going to tip over. I do not have very much mechanical experience, but I have a friend who is a mechanic and said it would be a piece of cake to help me install whatever I want. Please make any recommendations or suggestions to my build below. I am pretty much trying to do the best build I can without spending more then $4000 or so initially. The suspension and getting bigger tires on it is my first goal. Here is the current build I am looking at:

Pair of Donahoe Coilovers
Camburg Engineering Uni-Ball Upper Control Arm Set
2” lift Deaver Racing High Performance Rear Leaf Spring Set
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shock Set
Wheeler's Tacoma Stock Height Greasable Shackle Set
Greasable Main Spring Eye Bushing Set
DOT extended rear brake line 19” HD Stainless Braided
Need recommendation on brand and size of tires and wheels I should use.


Bandito has pretty much covered it, LOL, but here goes...


Now I have a couple questions:

Is this the correct type of suspension I should be looking at for my needs?
yes but make sure to get the 650# coils since you want to add a winch/bumper

What would be better parts to go with?
better? none

How much more lift beyond this would I have to do to put 35s on it or should 33s be plenty big enough?
stick with 33s, forget the 35s with IFS. AND go with 33x10.50s or you will need more lift via a body lift or 'drop-bracket' eventually as the coils will sag with time once you install that winch/bumper. The 10.50s can be run with only 2" of lift on stock wheels and not rub much at all as they tuck right into the fenders nicely, just like the OE 31x10.50s. 33x12.50s are a whole 'nuther story and require more lift to clear the fenders, 5-6" total.

Keeping the coilovers cranked to 2-2.5" of lift will give you better wheel travel, handling, etc. this also keeps the extra wear on your CV boots to a minimum. The more lift you crank into the coilovers the less down-travel you are left with. The Tacoma front suspension only has 8", 4" up and 4" down. Cranking up to a 3" lift leaves you with only 1" down-travel.

for what you describe I would steer clear of a body lift other than a 1" kit.

Stepping up to 35s and the extra needed lift (and the type of lift) will negate the handling aspects that you describe as your need. 8-9" utilizing a 'drop-bracket style kit AND cranked coilovers is needed to completely clear 35x12.50 and that will raise your center of gravity by a huge amount losing you any decent stability factor. Also, the taller the tire the more extra stress is placed on the entire drivetrain that it was just not designed to handle. Things will break sooner and more often.


What other parts should I add or subtract to make this build better?
possibly Bilstein 5150s for the rear as they are more designed for fast dirt roading. I have them and love them.
24" rear brake line


It seems like the only rear shock options I have seen for the most part are the Bilstein 5100. Are there other and/or better options?
better options? see above. other options? Rancho 9000s but the ride will be stiffer

Should I or do I need to get the Donahoe Racing Tacoma Spacer leveling kit or a 1” differential drop spacer?
no and no.

How much different would the Total Chaos package be? Would it provide more or less travel?
out of your price range of $4000 and just not necessary for the driving you describe.

How will the stability of this vehicle be on the highway and on windy paved roads?
a hell of a lot better than it is now ;)

How much will the suspension and tires affect gas mileage? Will it decrease a lot?
without regearing, yes, but much will depend on your driving habits. you will also notice a loss of power especially on hills or towing/hauling.

With this build will it be easy to make future upgrades?
such as?

Can I expect a shorter life span of my truck?
yes. this will make it much more capable off road and you will use it, believe me...and when you do you will break things ;) You will need to learn to fix things on your truck so pick up a FSM (factory service manual). CV axles will be the first thing you'll need to learn how to change on the trail. When we mod our trucks to this extent things wear out faster; thats the way it goes. If you just want better handling on dirt roads upgrade the suspension but don't crank in much extra lift and keep the tire size stock...upgrade them but keep the size stock. This will maintain "stock" reliability to the best extent.

In the future I am hoping to add both a front and rear air locker (ARB most likely), ARB bull bars and a 9000lb wench.
I have all that on my '00 except for the bumper, mine's a custom one that weighs even more than the ARB ;) You already have a rear locker and ARB does not make one that replaces the stock e-locker.
Add a set of sliders and upgraded skid plates.
If you regear go with 4.56s for 33s
add some hi-angle CV boot kits to the mix, about $100 for both axles.
If you do install the ARB locker up front carry spare CV axles anytime you are off roading...you will eventually break one. Unless you plan on doing some hardcore trails you really don't need the front locker at all. The rear-locker equiped TRD is the most capable truck out there, hands down.

Demello can fix you up on all the suspension parts as suggested. His sliders are top rate as well.
www.trdparts4u.com for the boot kits. contact Chris or Barb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
oh yeah one thing i forgot to suggest. get body protection first if you plan on doing anything that can potentially damage your truck body (ie. skids sliders and bumpers)then get the suspension lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,124 Posts
there you go again sayin you need 6" of lift to clear a 33x12.50 :bs:

you can run a 33x12.50 with just 3" coilovers if you get a good alignment and do the pinch weld mod. only time i ever rub is at FULL compression and FULL lock steering. now how often does that happen? :xmoon:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Which set of Bilstein 5150s should I get? These will fit on my truck without any welding modification or anything like that right?
 

·
Going John Galt
Joined
·
31,843 Posts
drabnor said:
there you go again sayin you need 6" of lift to clear a 33x12.50 :bs:

you can run a 33x12.50 with just 3" coilovers if you get a good alignment and do the pinch weld mod. only time i ever rub is at FULL compression and FULL lock steering. now how often does that happen? :xmoon:
jeeze, I forget once to include the 'needed body work' and you climb all over me...;)

and besides, I said 'fully clear' the 12.50s and w/o the body work some guys still rub even then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Can I use the Bilstein 5150 8.5" BF5-A195-H1 for both back shocks or is there a right and left? Also, one person recommended getting one 5150 8" shock for the (left?) and a 8.5" for the (right?) What is the reason for doing this and would you not recommend it?
 

·
Going John Galt
Joined
·
31,843 Posts
ShadyRevelation said:
Can I use the Bilstein 5150 8.5" BF5-A195-H1 for both back shocks or is there a right and left? Also, one person recommended getting one 5150 8" shock for the (left?) and a 8.5" for the (right?) What is the reason for doing this and would you not recommend it?
the passanger side shock is 1" longer than the driver's side.

this is the problem with the 5150s that I really wish Bilstein would address:
for our light-assed Tacomas the softer valved 'HO' series are the way to go. The problem is that only a few lengths come that way. AND they don't have a 9.3" shock to go with that 8.3 anyway. I have the 5150s in 10 and 11" with the lighter, 170/60 valving and they are fantastic even with a full load in the bed. But, I have to have 4+" of rear lift or they are too long and bottom out.

the 5125 series has a 9.24" and a 8.13" which will work but ONLY in the stiffer valving. The only ones in this series that they show with the lighter valving are a 10" and 11" for a 4+" lift.

The TAcoma's two different rear shock sizes is yet another reason you see guys with lifted trucks going to the /\ configureation. Stiffer shocks are needed with this mod as the dampening effect is reduced greatly with the angled configuration. Most will weld on new shock mounts to the axle assembly and add a cross bar under the bed making both distances between mounts the same...make for much easier shock choice.
 

·
Going John Galt
Joined
·
31,843 Posts
drabnor said:
my rear trimmin was not necessary, just personal preference ;-)
you just have a sawzall fetish
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,393 Posts
ShadyRevelation said:
I have a black 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. This is my daily driving vehicle so I want a smooth highway ride as well as a very capable off road rig. I live in the country and out a pretty long dirt driveway that takes a AWD vehicle to get up most of the year, but I have a decent daily freeway commute so I want to be able to go 75 or so and not feel like I am going to tip over. I do not have very much mechanical experience, but I have a friend who is a mechanic and said it would be a piece of cake to help me install whatever I want. Please make any recommendations or suggestions to my build below. I am pretty much trying to do the best build I can without spending more then $4000 or so initially. The suspension and getting bigger tires on it is my first goal. Here is the current build I am looking at:

Pair of Donahoe Coilovers
Camburg Engineering Uni-Ball Upper Control Arm Set
2” lift Deaver Racing High Performance Rear Leaf Spring Set
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shock Set
Wheeler's Tacoma Stock Height Greasable Shackle Set
Greasable Main Spring Eye Bushing Set
DOT extended rear brake line 19” HD Stainless Braided
Need recommendation on brand and size of tires and wheels I should use.

Now I have a couple questions:

Is this the correct type of suspension I should be looking at for my needs?

What would be better parts to go with?

How much more lift beyond this would I have to do to put 35s on it or should 33s be plenty big enough?

What other parts should I add or subtract to make this build better?

It seems like the only rear shock options I have seen for the most part are the Bilstein 5100. Are there other and/or better options?

Should I or do I need to get the Donahoe Racing Tacoma Spacer leveling kit or a 1” differential drop spacer?

How much different would the Total Chaos package be? Would it provide more or less travel?

How will the stability of this vehicle be on the highway and on windy paved roads?

How much will the suspension and tires affect gas mileage? Will it decrease a lot?

With this build will it be easy to make future upgrades?

Can I expect a shorter life span of my truck?

In the future I am hoping to add both a front and rear air locker (ARB most likely), ARB bull bars and a 9000lb wench.
As everyone said I can help you with what your looking for, and if you have any questions, I would be happy to answer them for you. 714-444-4049
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top