Great write up and Pic's. Keep us posted on how it works?
2006 Taco Dual Battery and AUX Fuse Block
17
Here’s my completed Dual Battery Project.
My goal was to install a second battery to use as a backup for the primary battery. I started by reading all of the articles I could find. I decided to keep the OEM battery at first and add an Odyssey 925 since it would fit nicely in limited space available under the hood of the 06 Taco. I plan to upgrade the OEM battery to an Odyssey PC1700 when I install the winch.
[edit: 01/11/08, since I did this post last year, I upgraded the primary battery to an Odessey PC 1700 and rerouted the aux fuse block to it, so the PC 925 funtions as backup battery only. I should write these changes up some time, but I thought I should mention it here and did not want to bump an old thread. There is an updated pic at the end of this write up. Also, I originally planned to put an aux relay block next to the PC925. In hind sight, I could have mounted the aux fuse block in a larger project box directly above the PC 1700 and then had room for relays too. The location above the PC 1700 might also be good for a winch solenoid.]
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This is what it looks like with cover on. [edit: This photo shows the aux fuse block powered by the PC925. It is now powered by the PC1700 - see last photo in this write up]
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********************************************************************************************************************
Here are the high level steps for the installation process:
This shows the location for the components:
![]()
Parts List and information
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63430
Step 1: Relocate OEM R/B No.2.
This required fabricating a small piece of aluminum as shown in the second photo. Detach the relay block from the primary fuse box, by sliding it upward firmly.
![]()
This shows the Relay Block in its new position
![]()
Step 2: Make bottom and top plates for battery.
These are ¼” aluminum plates with counter sunk holes for the bolts running down through the wheel well.
Bottom plate (holes 1-4 correspond to holes drilled in wheel well in next step). Holes A and B are for lag bolts that connect to top plate.
![]()
Top plate (large holes are for lag bolts to secure battery, small holes are counter sunk from the other side for bolts running up into the project box that sits above this plate.
![]()
Step 3: Drill holes in wheel well for battery mount.
Use bottom plate for battery as template for holes in wheel well. Position the aluminum plate in the desired location and mark where holes the will be drilled, for positions 2, 3, and 4 this is directly above the flat parts of the wheel well. A bracket is needed for the upper left position (holes 1 and 5).
For the aluminum plate to sit level, I had to fashion spacers for every position except #3. I just used a really thick washer for position 2, a large nut for position 3 (sorry, not shown), and fashioned a bracket position 1. A large washer on the under side is needed for position 2 because the existing hole is too big. The bracket on the left needs a slight angle because the flat part of the wheel well is not parallel to the aluminum plate. To make the bracket I first bolted the tray at positions 2, 3, and 4, and then bent a 10guage solid core wire to the desired shape. I then bent a piece of galvanized steel to match the wire template. (I’m not experience with metal fabrication - I was surprised the worked on my first try). Once the bracket was bolted at position 5 it was easy to tweak it to fit flush to the aluminum plate. Mark and drill hole 1 in the bracket as the last step.
![]()
Step 4: Mount bottom plate with bolts for securing battery.
The holes for the long lag bolts that that run up to the top plate were filed square to keep them from turning when the top nut is tightened.
![]()
Here is what battery looks like installed
![]()
Step 5: Mount project box to top battery plate and fuse block inside project box.
Note: I used ¼” coupling nuts to create a space between the bottom of the fuse block and the bottom of the project box. The space is where the wire runs from outside the box. The coupling nuts had to be ground down about 1/8” so that the fuse block fit inside the project box. A slightly taller project box could be used instead.
![]()
![]()
Step 6: Mark and cut holes for grommets in project box.
One hole for #4 wire to battery two holes for wires from fuse block to accessories.
![]()
Step 7: Mount Battery, fuse block, 150A Main Fuse, and Battery Isolator
Hellroaring 150A Fuse Holder
![]()
Hellroaring Battery Isolator
![]()
Step 8: Make Cables, install cables.
Use a piece of rope to measure cable lengths. My local West Marine store had all the tools I needed except for the heat gun.
I still need to get some ¾” split conduit to protect the wires.
Finished product
![]()
Thanks to all of those who posted their dual battery set ups and other useful information. Below is a partial list of resources that helped tremendously with this project.
References:
About batteries http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=009326;p=
http://www.teddnet.com/index.htm
About isolators http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/hellroaring/
http://www.cardomain.com/shoptype/Battery+Isolators/Regulators
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11679&page=2 (This is bajatoco's post with long explaination by dick foster on page two about isolators)
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32527(Dual Batt post by Drabnor)
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?p=1022559
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12105&highlight=odyssey+1200 (Dick Foster used odyssey 925)
http://24.174.48.38/dual_battery.html
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49249&highlight=dual+battery+installation
http://www.bajataco.com/dualbatts/dualbatteries01.html
http://www.manoian.net/jeep/dual_batteries.html
http://www.toyota120.com/html/4runner_dual_batteries.html
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=6298&highlight=deep+cycle+battery
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=74124
http://www.commtechreview.net/jeep/nwpdualbatt.htm
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=587817&mode=threaded
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tacoma/74920-2005-tacoma-cobra-75-wxst-cb/
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/ (Deep cycle battery faq)
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/
http://www.oramagazine.com/pastIssues/0503-issue/050301t-maya-hunter.html
http://www.arb.com.au/arb_dual_battery_systems.htm
********************************************************************************************************************
[edit: 01/11/08, Here's the updated pic with the Odessey PC 1700 replacing the the OEM battery. The Aux fuse block now gets power from the primary battery.]
![]()
My goal was to install a second battery to use as a backup for the primary battery. I started by reading all of the articles I could find. I decided to keep the OEM battery at first and add an Odyssey 925 since it would fit nicely in limited space available under the hood of the 06 Taco. I plan to upgrade the OEM battery to an Odyssey PC1700 when I install the winch.
[edit: 01/11/08, since I did this post last year, I upgraded the primary battery to an Odessey PC 1700 and rerouted the aux fuse block to it, so the PC 925 funtions as backup battery only. I should write these changes up some time, but I thought I should mention it here and did not want to bump an old thread. There is an updated pic at the end of this write up. Also, I originally planned to put an aux relay block next to the PC925. In hind sight, I could have mounted the aux fuse block in a larger project box directly above the PC 1700 and then had room for relays too. The location above the PC 1700 might also be good for a winch solenoid.]
This is what it looks like with cover on. [edit: This photo shows the aux fuse block powered by the PC925. It is now powered by the PC1700 - see last photo in this write up]
********************************************************************************************************************
Here are the high level steps for the installation process:
This shows the location for the components:
Parts List and information
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63430
Step 1: Relocate OEM R/B No.2.
This required fabricating a small piece of aluminum as shown in the second photo. Detach the relay block from the primary fuse box, by sliding it upward firmly.
This shows the Relay Block in its new position
Step 2: Make bottom and top plates for battery.
These are ¼” aluminum plates with counter sunk holes for the bolts running down through the wheel well.
Bottom plate (holes 1-4 correspond to holes drilled in wheel well in next step). Holes A and B are for lag bolts that connect to top plate.
Top plate (large holes are for lag bolts to secure battery, small holes are counter sunk from the other side for bolts running up into the project box that sits above this plate.
Step 3: Drill holes in wheel well for battery mount.
Use bottom plate for battery as template for holes in wheel well. Position the aluminum plate in the desired location and mark where holes the will be drilled, for positions 2, 3, and 4 this is directly above the flat parts of the wheel well. A bracket is needed for the upper left position (holes 1 and 5).
For the aluminum plate to sit level, I had to fashion spacers for every position except #3. I just used a really thick washer for position 2, a large nut for position 3 (sorry, not shown), and fashioned a bracket position 1. A large washer on the under side is needed for position 2 because the existing hole is too big. The bracket on the left needs a slight angle because the flat part of the wheel well is not parallel to the aluminum plate. To make the bracket I first bolted the tray at positions 2, 3, and 4, and then bent a 10guage solid core wire to the desired shape. I then bent a piece of galvanized steel to match the wire template. (I’m not experience with metal fabrication - I was surprised the worked on my first try). Once the bracket was bolted at position 5 it was easy to tweak it to fit flush to the aluminum plate. Mark and drill hole 1 in the bracket as the last step.
Step 4: Mount bottom plate with bolts for securing battery.
The holes for the long lag bolts that that run up to the top plate were filed square to keep them from turning when the top nut is tightened.
Here is what battery looks like installed
Step 5: Mount project box to top battery plate and fuse block inside project box.
Note: I used ¼” coupling nuts to create a space between the bottom of the fuse block and the bottom of the project box. The space is where the wire runs from outside the box. The coupling nuts had to be ground down about 1/8” so that the fuse block fit inside the project box. A slightly taller project box could be used instead.
Step 6: Mark and cut holes for grommets in project box.
One hole for #4 wire to battery two holes for wires from fuse block to accessories.
Step 7: Mount Battery, fuse block, 150A Main Fuse, and Battery Isolator
Hellroaring 150A Fuse Holder
Hellroaring Battery Isolator
Step 8: Make Cables, install cables.
Use a piece of rope to measure cable lengths. My local West Marine store had all the tools I needed except for the heat gun.
I still need to get some ¾” split conduit to protect the wires.
Finished product
Thanks to all of those who posted their dual battery set ups and other useful information. Below is a partial list of resources that helped tremendously with this project.
References:
About batteries http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=009326;p=
http://www.teddnet.com/index.htm
About isolators http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/hellroaring/
http://www.cardomain.com/shoptype/Battery+Isolators/Regulators
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11679&page=2 (This is bajatoco's post with long explaination by dick foster on page two about isolators)
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32527(Dual Batt post by Drabnor)
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?p=1022559
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12105&highlight=odyssey+1200 (Dick Foster used odyssey 925)
http://24.174.48.38/dual_battery.html
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49249&highlight=dual+battery+installation
http://www.bajataco.com/dualbatts/dualbatteries01.html
http://www.manoian.net/jeep/dual_batteries.html
http://www.toyota120.com/html/4runner_dual_batteries.html
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=6298&highlight=deep+cycle+battery
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=74124
http://www.commtechreview.net/jeep/nwpdualbatt.htm
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=587817&mode=threaded
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tacoma/74920-2005-tacoma-cobra-75-wxst-cb/
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/ (Deep cycle battery faq)
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/
http://www.oramagazine.com/pastIssues/0503-issue/050301t-maya-hunter.html
http://www.arb.com.au/arb_dual_battery_systems.htm
********************************************************************************************************************
[edit: 01/11/08, Here's the updated pic with the Odessey PC 1700 replacing the the OEM battery. The Aux fuse block now gets power from the primary battery.]
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
awesome write up! pics and diagrams are perfect. thanks!
When I first set this up, I used the PC 925 as a "house battery" and as a backup to the OEM starter battery.
Later, I got the PC1700 and now power everything off it it. The PC925 is just a backup battery. This is a very standard setup.
So I'm not sure what is backwards...
Here's the current wiring diagram:
[Edit 05/03/10 this weekend I actually needed this damned thing. Peace of mind is one thing, actually flipping a switch and getting back on the road is another. I've tested this setup by diconnecting the PC1700 before, this is the first time I've run it down by mistake. It worked...]
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
