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How big is the fuel cell? That would be awesome to have. Probably too much for my wallet at the moment though.
 

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Siiiiick truck! Any recent updates? :xpopcorn2
 

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Discussion Starter #187
How big is the fuel cell? That would be awesome to have. Probably too much for my wallet at the moment though.
Just asked my buddy that owns the truck and he thought it was around 15 gallons. If you're at all serious about the fuel cell and possibly the whole rear 4-link setup we should talk. It's a tough bunch of parts to sell and I can promise you that I'd be asking a lot less for the whole setup than you can buy a nice set of links for. It would take a fair amount of fabrication and a few more parts to get it finished but I think it would be worth it. :D

I had hoped to get all the CAD work done over my Christmas break but that didn't happen. The majority of the backhalf is designed but it needs to be cleaned up and prepared to send out to get parts cut. The rear bumps were changed to Kings after having to remove the Fox bumps with a crowbar and changes still need to be made to the model. Also need to finish designing the upper shock mounts, lower links, and frame side link brackets.

We ran into a few issues with the rear truss fitment since I designed it around the older style 14-bolt housing. It didn't fit quite right around the newer housing that was under this truck previously so the front and back plates of the truss are getting re-cut.

The front hoop in this model is the hoop inside the cab. New frame rails will be built that mate up to the existing frame rails right in front of the rear most body mount. The only part I didn't draw were the wheels...got the Walker CAD model off GrabCAD and the guy did a great job!

Hoping to get the frame rails, revised truss, and the two crossmembers that support the fuel cell cut next week. Tube work will come after but it hasn't been decided if it's getting laser notched or built by hand off the CAD model.







 

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Only issue i see is the bump pads need to to be parallel (or close) to the ground or can very easily bend the bump shafts. Other than that everything looks awesome!!! I REALLY like that truss. Are you putting an air ram on the rear tire carrier to access a jack or something? I noticed its on heims in the front. Speaking of bumps getting stuck in, you should make an aluminum slug when you weld in the king bump cans to keep them round, and maybe take a sanding drum inside after you weld. It makes them SO nice.

And whered you get that axle CAD model?
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Only issue i see is the bump pads need to to be parallel (or close) to the ground or can very easily bend the bump shafts. Other than that everything looks awesome!!! I REALLY like that truss. Are you putting an air ram on the rear tire carrier to access a jack or something? I noticed its on heims in the front. Speaking of bumps getting stuck in, you should make an aluminum slug when you weld in the king bump cans to keep them round, and maybe take a sanding drum inside after you weld. It makes them SO nice.

And whered you get that axle CAD model?
Appreciate the advice! I did weld the last bump cans with a piece of tube inside but it was still a huge ordeal to install or remove the bumps. The design on these King bump cans is so far superior to the pinch cans but it's good to know they can still get warped pretty badly.

For the bump pads I spent a fair amount of time playing with the suspension and decided to put them at a small angle since the bumps are going to get side loaded no matter what. If I mounted the pads "flat" the bumps would hit nowhere near straight on if the axle was articulated. It does seem like it's more common to mount them flat so that may be a change I should make. Thanks for bringing that up.

I spent a bunch of money getting a 14 bolt center section laser scanned since I was set on designing an aluminum 14 bolt dropout. It's 99% finished design wise but I ran into some setbacks (mainly $$$) in getting it made. There was talk of doing a billet prototype in this truck but it's a big $$$ risk if something was off in the design or machining. We decided to just revamp the 14 bolt that was in it for now with a lower R&P, new truss, CTS-V 4-piston calipers and some nice rotors. The engine didn't have enough power with 4.88s so it looks like we're moving to 5.38s except there's no longer a matching ratio for the Toyota front differential. :cool:
 

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Appreciate the advice! I did weld the last bump cans with a piece of tube inside but it was still a huge ordeal to install or remove the bumps. The design on these King bump cans is so far superior to the pinch cans but it's good to know they can still get warped pretty badly.
Yep if you keep them from warping too bad and sand a little, they are nice forever. Also use some anti-seize paste on the bump when you put it in and itll keep from rusting for quite a bit longer. We live next to the beach so everything tends to rust/corrode very quick haha

For the bump pads I spent a fair amount of time playing with the suspension and decided to put them at a small angle since the bumps are going to get side loaded no matter what. If I mounted the pads "flat" the bumps would hit nowhere near straight on if the axle was articulated. It does seem like it's more common to mount them flat so that may be a change I should make. Thanks for bringing that up.
thats true and you will be articulated on bumps more then us. So did you split 0 degree with your max expected articulation angle and call that good? Though, the bumps i think will have a better chance of bending when they get hit fast like going through deep whoops.....making your angled pads flat would be an easy change later.

I spent a bunch of money getting a 14 bolt center section laser scanned since I was set on designing an aluminum 14 bolt dropout. It's 99% finished design wise but I ran into some setbacks (mainly $$$) in getting it made. There was talk of doing a billet prototype in this truck but it's a big $$$ risk if something was off in the design or machining. We decided to just revamp the 14 bolt that was in it for now with a lower R&P, new truss, CTS-V 4-piston calipers and some nice rotors. The engine didn't have enough power with 4.88s so it looks like we're moving to 5.38s except there's no longer a matching ratio for the Toyota front differential. :cool:
Who do you work for? haha. I thought maybe you just bought the cad file from somewhere. And whats your engine? Our 4.0 pulls nice with 5.29s and race 35s.
 

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Just wanted to give a quick update on where this truck ended up. I purchased the truck from the guys who started this thread and built it over the past 3 years. It has a Solo Motorsports XLT 4wd front kit, Total Chaos trailing arms with 9" Full floater pulling 26" of travel. It's now driving and I'm working on finishing the dash/windshield bars, connecting cab to cage and then getting some glass back in!

More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/jason.simon.391/media_set?set=a.10210256139986951.1073741827.1444063672&type=3
 

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