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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Earlier I got a pm from some dude
Tacosupreme,
Thanks again. Performed mod today. Getting in/out of 4LO is much easier, but still nowhere near as smooth as my old '93 ,'98, or '01.
Now if I could just find a way to make the transfer case go into low range without turning the front drive shaft, I'd be set. I'm afraid I may be out of luck on that one.
So I replied that I'd go get some beer and figure out how to do it. two and a half German beers later I got it, but my truck is in the shop so I can't try it out, and I need some smart guy to draw a diagram out of my instructions to make sense of it. Here is the schematics from the book- A-3 is what concerns us, top right ADD


So here's the plan, using a DPDT switch set one switch position for normal flow through operations, and use the other postion to trick the ECU into believing the front ADD actuator is engaged, without letting juice flow to the motor.

so for bank "A"
pin 1a RED WIRE, ECU Side (DM1)
pin 2a RED WIRE, Motor side
pin 3a OPEN

bank "B"
pin 4b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), ECU
pin 5b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), DIFF side
pin 6b GROUND







Other than doing tire blowing burnouts or horsing around I can't think of a real world application for the 2LO mod, but there it is anyway.
 

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Earlier I got a pm from some dude


So I replied that I'd go get some beer and figure out how to do it. two and a half German beers later I got it, but my truck is in the shop so I can't try it out, and I need some smart guy to draw a diagram out of my instructions to make sense of it. Here is the schematics from the book- A-3 is what concerns us, top right ADD


So here's the plan, using a DPDT switch set one switch position for normal flow through operations, and use the other postion to trick the ECU into believing the front ADD actuator is engaged, without letting juice flow to the motor.

so for bank "A"
pin 1a RED WIRE, ECU Side (DM1)
pin 2a RED WIRE, Motor side
pin 3a OPEN

bank "B"
pin 4b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), ECU
pin 5b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), DIFF side
pin 6b GROUND







Other than doing tire blowing burnouts or horsing around I can't think of a real world application for the 2LO mod, but there it is anyway.
That may work for those of us that.... well, me anyway, that have done a sas on the new Tacos.:D
 

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Well, I tried.

I though about how "2LO would be good if...", but I can't come up with a single situation that I might want low range, but wouldn't want 4WD.

OK, OK... How about this?

I'm backing a very heavy four wheeled trailer up a steep, curving driveway and into a garage.

I'm on pavement, and steering from lock to lock to get the trailer in, so I don't want 4WD.

The trailer is heavy and the four tires make it not want to turn, so it's taking a LOT of grunt to get it up the steeply sloped driveway and into the garage.

The Tacoma in question is a manual tranny, so I'm slipping the shit out of the clutch trying to do this and I'm starting to smell clutch burning.

What do I do?

For this weird situation, 2lo would make sense. You would be able to just let the clutch out and idle backwards up the driveway and be done with it.

If I ever find my self in that situation, I'll look you guys up.

Until then, however, I'm going to leave it alone. It works fine just the way it is.
 

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Well, I tried.

I though about how "2LO would be good if...", but I can't come up with a single situation that I might want low range, but wouldn't want 4WD.

OK, OK... How about this?

I'm backing a very heavy trailer up a steep, curving driveway and into a garage.

I'm on pavement, and steering from lock to lock to get the trailer in, so I don't want 4WD.

The trailer is heavy and has four tires, so it's taking a LOT of grunt to get it up the steeply sloped driveway and into the garage.

The Tacoma in question is a manual tranny, so I'm slipping the shit out of the clutch trying to do this and I'm starting to smell clutch burning.

What do I do?

For this weird situation, 2lo would make sense.

If I ever find my self in that situation, I'll look you guys up.

Until then, however, I'm going to leave it alone. It works fine just the way it is.

I have found myself from time to time using lo range in a high traffic situation instead of wearing out my foot and clutch just shift to lo range and crawl around
 

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even in high traffic you can still use 4 wheel low. I too cannot see a reason you'd not want 4x4 with lo range....

Also couldnt you break the rearend if your not careful, thats alot more torque and you're not having the front axle help push you along if that makes sense, your sending ALL that extra torque through the rear axle.... Did it make sense ? I Couldnt figure out how to type that clearly lol
 

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I have used 2lo and comound low numerous times once I got my front end where I wanted it, basicly a rear dig. Pull rocks under the tires, shift the ass end sideways. There are plenty of reaons to use 2lo. The more adjustability in a rig the better.

Though this was in a 04 tacoma.. and currently an 85, but the idea is the same.
 

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even in high traffic you can still use 4 wheel low.
Thats just a plain old bad idea.... you stand a VERY good chance of breaking things using 4hi or 4lo on hi traction surfaces such as pavement...


Well, I tried.

I though about how "2LO would be good if...", but I can't come up with a single situation that I might want low range, but wouldn't want 4WD.

OK, OK... How about this?

I'm backing a very heavy four wheeled trailer up a steep, curving driveway and into a garage.

I'm on pavement, and steering from lock to lock to get the trailer in, so I don't want 4WD.

The trailer is heavy and the four tires make it not want to turn, so it's taking a LOT of grunt to get it up the steeply sloped driveway and into the garage.

The Tacoma in question is a manual tranny, so I'm slipping the shit out of the clutch trying to do this and I'm starting to smell clutch burning.

What do I do?

For this weird situation, 2lo would make sense. You would be able to just let the clutch out and idle backwards up the driveway and be done with it.

If I ever find my self in that situation, I'll look you guys up.

Until then, however, I'm going to leave it alone. It works fine just the way it is.
I love 2lo. There are many uses, like the ones listed, as well as increased compression braking ability when trying to go slow on backroads coming downhill. Going slow up FS roads, providing more gearing options. I would like to be able to do this, thou wont really do it until my warranty is up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats just a plain old bad idea.... you stand a VERY good chance of breaking things using 4hi or 4lo on hi traction surfaces such as pavement...
When my tranny broke it was stuck in third gear so I popped it in 4lo and hammered down the last couple miles to work. I think unless you're spinning cookies it won't hurt anything, at least I hope so, I haven't got my truck back yet lol.
thou wont really do it until my warranty is up.
Chicken. It's nothing a roll of black tape and some solder can't fix.
 

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Thats just a plain old bad idea.... you stand a VERY good chance of breaking things using 4hi or 4lo on hi traction surfaces such as pavement...
You can drive the damn thing all day long in traffic, on the freeway etc. in 4hi if you wanted to. It's not the best option but it'll be just fine.... And I can't think of a SINGLE situation where I'd need to shift to low range gears where 1st in my truck would do the same damn thing. Even with 33's and stock gears, I sit in stop and crawl traffic for 25 minutes every morning trying to get to the turnpike, it's nothing idling along in 1st gear couldnt do....



I love 2lo. There are many uses, like the ones listed, as well as increased compression braking ability when trying to go slow on backroads coming downhill. Going slow up FS roads, providing more gearing options. I would like to be able to do this, thou wont really do it until my warranty is up.
Increased compression braking ? So while driving along you plan to shift down into low range to help compression brake ? SOOO you plan to descend or climb a hill slower than 1st gear will let you ? If you're on THAT steep of a hill, why wouldnt you want to be in 4x4 anyways ? 1st gear will compression brake you to a damn near stop (mine will at least)
 

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Not touching mine. Toyota would have a shit fit over that one. OOPS, I guess I did do the locker mod...didn't I:)
 

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You can drive the damn thing all day long in traffic, on the freeway etc. in 4hi if you wanted to. It's not the best option but it'll be just fine.... And I can't think of a SINGLE situation where I'd need to shift to low range gears where 1st in my truck would do the same damn thing. Even with 33's and stock gears, I sit in stop and crawl traffic for 25 minutes every morning trying to get to the turnpike, it's nothing idling along in 1st gear couldnt do....
Go for it if you want to, but I dont care if it idiling or driving 55, it still WILL bind, and if that bind is large enough something WILL break...

When my tranny broke it was stuck in third gear so I popped it in 4lo and hammered down the last couple miles to work. I think unless you're spinning cookies it won't hurt anything, at least I hope so, I haven't got my truck back yet lol.
You will create a large amount of binding on a xcase using 4wd on the street, hi or low. Eventually this binding will lead to a failure, or premature wear. I am sure your truck is fine, just do not make a habit of it.


Increased compression braking ? So while driving along you plan to shift down into low range to help compression brake ? SOOO you plan to descend or climb a hill slower than 1st gear will let you ? If you're on THAT steep of a hill, why wouldnt you want to be in 4x4 anyways ? 1st gear will compression brake you to a damn near stop (mine will at least)

Obviously you would START in low range. Where we elk hunt our rigs hit 2lo at the top of the 7 mile road and dont come out until we go back up. Works like a charm. If you try to do it in 1st gear you will end up with red hot brakes at the bottom, 2nd gear 2lo and you hardly touch the brakes. Its a normal road so you dont need 4x4, why wear your tires out when you dont have to... And yes it COULD be done in 2hi, but why when 4lo works better. On a manual with more gear options I dont use it as much as I do on the auto tranny rigs, like my dads 2500 454 burb, 2lo really helps.... You use 2lo to afford more gear options, 2lo 2nd is lower than 1st... so compression braking is better than 1st, which is what we are going for. We also use 2lo when towing up a steep FS road, you can get the rpm's up a little higher so the water pump is working more, and the airflow is increased, overall it decreases underhood temps which are an issue with 8K trailer, and a 454 going 15mph up a steep hill. I also use 2lo all the time on my 92, with a 22RE and 35's, even with 4.88's, there just isnt enough power to get up some hills while camping, and 4wd isnt needed. Besides w/out getting out of the truck I can have locked 2lo, which is just as good in some instances as 4lo :D Its all in how you look at it, I love 2lo...
 

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Some dude here.
What if I'm coming up out of the boat ramp with my 4 cylinder truck w/33s, stock gears and a manual transmission? I have to make a turn at the top of the paved ramp, so I don't want to use 4LO and I don't want to use 2HI and burn off half my clutch.
What if I'm in a really tight spot off roading that is hard packed, but if I roll a little too far I hit something or fall off a cliff? I can't do a multi-point turn with the front end locked, but I would like to be geared down.
There are lots of occassions where 2LO is handy. You just have to be careful with it.
 

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honestly guys after REALLY thinking about it, 2lo would be pretty nice.... I've run some pretty tight trails with alot of turns that didnt require 4x4, but 1st was the only useable gear, 3 or 4 useable gears in 2 wheel drive would be nice.... Hmm, never seriously considered this.
 

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I have a 92 with manual hubs, so I already have a 2lo option, sorta.

I use it when launching, or recovering a boat.

I also used it when I loaded about 2000lbs of broken cement into my little single cab and had to drive about 12 miles to the concrete recycling place. I couldnt even move in 2hi, just burned the clutch or stalled, and this was on level pavement!.
Had to use 2lo just to move. 5th gear + lo-range = ~45mph max speed.
 

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I also used it when I loaded about 2000lbs of broken cement into my little single cab and had to drive about 12 miles to the concrete recycling place. I couldnt even move in 2hi, just burned the clutch or stalled, and this was on level pavement!.
Had to use 2lo just to move. 5th gear + lo-range = ~45mph max speed.
Something doesnt sound right with your truck or clutch then.... I have 35's, and 4.88's on my 22RE and have put 2K in the bed and it goes w/out too much issue up to 65... I have also towed 5K plus, I use 2lo when manuvering but could easily use 2hi to get going and drive... now stopping was a whole other story.
 

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I use 2-lo when I'm PreRunning around easy trails and I come up to a hill climb that doesn't really need 4WD. To keep the load easier on the transmission and motor, I just throw it in 2-lo.
 

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this will probably sound like a bad idea... but your buddies will think its cool. if you have a rear locker ( and the grey wire mod for the guys with the factory locker) you can pop it in 2lo and burn your back tires off in all 5 gears... wouldn't recomend it as breakage may occur. but everyone who doesn't know better will think your packin a big block or something lol
 

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I cleaned it up a little:


So in the "up" position everything would flow normal. In the down position, DM1 would be cut and ADD/DL2 would be grounded. Did I interpret his instructions correctly? Would it be better to isolate the ADD wire and DL2 wire using a 3PDT switch? What is the meaning of those symbols in the upper right portion of the diagram?
 
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