[djohnmd]

I have a 03 TRD V6 4X4 5spd with automatic hubs and would like to lift it about 3 inches to clear 32's.
I have read on the Downey web site:
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm (click on tech notes)
that Tacoma's with the automatic hubs that are lifted more than 2 inches ride horrible, especially at highway speeds (lots of vibration). I have not seen any info on this site about that so can anyone confirm or deny this?

Thanks;

 

[tbplus10]

The automatic hubs (ADD) dont determine how the truck will ride with a given lift. The type lift used will determine how the truck rides.
Replacement coils/shocks/springs make the truck ride closer to stock, spacers/AAL's tend to stiffen the suspension.
Where the 3 inches comes in is because this is the point where most Tacoma cv joints begin to have problems if you arent using a lift that relocates the Diff, this isnt a guarrantee some lift higher without problems, and some have problems with less lift.
Vibration hasnt been a problem with lifted Tacoma's.
I'm sure Downey has all the parts to avoid these problems.
Take a look at some of the Sponsors of this site that sell lift kits, almost all of them off-road Tacomas and have their companys lifts on their trucks.
Tim

 

[YoTRacer158]

my donahoes are set at 2.5" lift and they ride great

 

[01tacoboy]

I have 2.5" kings w/ rear AAL and like it much better than stock. Have no issues with CV boots yet (40k mi lifted so far), or any vibrations.

 

[djohnmd]

Do you have automatic hubs (ADD) in the front?

 

[hytenor]

I have a 03 TRD V6 4X4 5spd with automatic hubs and would like to lift it about 3 inches to clear 32's.
I have read on the Downey web site:
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm (click on tech notes)
that Tacoma's with the automatic hubs that are lifted more than 2 inches ride horrible, especially at highway speeds (lots of vibration). I have not seen any info on this site about that so can anyone confirm or deny this?

Thanks;

you don't really need 3" for the 32s (265/75/16s) on OE rims, 2" will do the trick, ride much better than a 3" kit and keep your CV boots happy The CV joints themselves will handle over 3.5" of lift; it's the boots that keep failing with too much lift. Upper ball joints are another issue with more than 3".

The vibration issue seems to be mixed. there was a problem with some OME 882 coil installations last year but whether it was a defective product or install error never seemed to be resolved. There are far more members with 3" kits and ADD who DON'T have a vibe problem than there are those who do Also, it is hard to define "lots of vibration" from what I've read here.
It is more likely that wheel balance and front end alignment play a bigger part in that issue.

 

[shortbus]

two words.....diff drop.

 

[4TACXOMA4]

two words.....diff drop.

Four words...don't waste your money.

 

[hytenor]

two words.....diff drop.

the only truely useful 'diff-drop':

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/vids/Josh's%20SAS/

 

[shortbus]

Four words...don't waste your money.

So somehow you are telling me that with 3" of lift up front on IFS a diff drop is not worth the small amount of cash? So easing the CV angles and putting less stress on them is not worth it? Hmmm.....find that hard to believe.

 

[hytenor]

So somehow you are telling me that with 3" of lift up front on IFS a diff drop is not worth the small amount of cash? So easing the CV angles and putting less stress on them is not worth it? Hmmm.....find that hard to believe.

yes, because the 'easing of the CV angles' that you state is a myth unless you use a 1.25-1.5" spacer for the pivoting down of the front of the diff (the entire diff does not drop like with a 'drop-bracket' style lift) and doing that will screw up your front pinion angle and put tremendous pressure on the rear diff mount bolt and bushing. You darn near have to use a micrometer to measure any change at the axles or at the boot fins with a 3/4" spacer. And, the amount of 'drop' at the point where the axles are is about 1/2 the amount of the actual spacer. The "diff-drop" creates a leaver with the fulcrum at the rear diff mount bolt. the far end of the now-formed triangle is the spacer. About half way between those two points is where the axles insert into the diff...basic geometry.

Its a bandaid approach to the problem that gives a placebo effect at best and can possibly do more long-term harm than good.