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I have a 03 TRD V6 4X4 5spd with automatic hubs and would like to lift it about 3 inches to clear 32's.
I have read on the Downey web site:
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm (click on tech notes)
that Tacoma's with the automatic hubs that are lifted more than 2 inches ride horrible, especially at highway speeds (lots of vibration). I have not seen any info on this site about that so can anyone confirm or deny this?

Thanks;
 

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The automatic hubs (ADD) dont determine how the truck will ride with a given lift. The type lift used will determine how the truck rides.
Replacement coils/shocks/springs make the truck ride closer to stock, spacers/AAL's tend to stiffen the suspension.
Where the 3 inches comes in is because this is the point where most Tacoma cv joints begin to have problems if you arent using a lift that relocates the Diff, this isnt a guarrantee some lift higher without problems, and some have problems with less lift.
Vibration hasnt been a problem with lifted Tacoma's.
I'm sure Downey has all the parts to avoid these problems.
Take a look at some of the Sponsors of this site that sell lift kits, almost all of them off-road Tacomas and have their companys lifts on their trucks.
Tim
 

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my donahoes are set at 2.5" lift and they ride great
 

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I have 2.5" kings w/ rear AAL and like it much better than stock. Have no issues with CV boots yet (40k mi lifted so far), or any vibrations.
 

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djohnmd said:
I have a 03 TRD V6 4X4 5spd with automatic hubs and would like to lift it about 3 inches to clear 32's.
I have read on the Downey web site:
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm (click on tech notes)
that Tacoma's with the automatic hubs that are lifted more than 2 inches ride horrible, especially at highway speeds (lots of vibration). I have not seen any info on this site about that so can anyone confirm or deny this?

Thanks;
you don't really need 3" for the 32s (265/75/16s) on OE rims, 2" will do the trick, ride much better than a 3" kit and keep your CV boots happy ;) The CV joints themselves will handle over 3.5" of lift; it's the boots that keep failing with too much lift. Upper ball joints are another issue with more than 3".

The vibration issue seems to be mixed. there was a problem with some OME 882 coil installations last year but whether it was a defective product or install error never seemed to be resolved. There are far more members with 3" kits and ADD who DON'T have a vibe problem than there are those who do ;) Also, it is hard to define "lots of vibration" from what I've read here.
It is more likely that wheel balance and front end alignment play a bigger part in that issue.
 

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shortbus said:
two words.....diff drop.
the only truely useful 'diff-drop':

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/vids/Josh's%20SAS/

:D
 

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4TACXOMA4 said:
Four words...don't waste your money. :D

So somehow you are telling me that with 3" of lift up front on IFS a diff drop is not worth the small amount of cash? So easing the CV angles and putting less stress on them is not worth it? Hmmm.....find that hard to believe. :confused:
 

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shortbus said:
So somehow you are telling me that with 3" of lift up front on IFS a diff drop is not worth the small amount of cash? So easing the CV angles and putting less stress on them is not worth it? Hmmm.....find that hard to believe. :confused:
yes, because the 'easing of the CV angles' that you state is a myth unless you use a 1.25-1.5" spacer for the pivoting down of the front of the diff (the entire diff does not drop like with a 'drop-bracket' style lift) and doing that will screw up your front pinion angle and put tremendous pressure on the rear diff mount bolt and bushing. You darn near have to use a micrometer to measure any change at the axles or at the boot fins with a 3/4" spacer. And, the amount of 'drop' at the point where the axles are is about 1/2 the amount of the actual spacer. The "diff-drop" creates a leaver with the fulcrum at the rear diff mount bolt. the far end of the now-formed triangle is the spacer. About half way between those two points is where the axles insert into the diff...basic geometry.

Its a bandaid approach to the problem that gives a placebo effect at best and can possibly do more long-term harm than good.
 
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