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Discussion Starter #1
After many broken axleshafts (stock and chromo), a Detroit, a front R&P, and now a rear R&P, it has come time to make the swap. All that was broken on A/T's.

Truck was originally linked with the All Pro kit using a Wagoneer D44. Factory TRD rear.


It started off as my daily driver/ weekend truck but I finally got a tow rig so I am ready to make the swap.


Before:




The last straw was this. I had a rear R&P bolt back out and bounce around in my third. Frustrated and sick of throwing money at the truck, I brought it back home and started ripping parts off.







First order of business was to get rid of the wheels and tires. Traded the wheels for this trailer. (Included in the pic is my new $2200 towrig:D )


 

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Discussion Starter #2
Riding dirty on 29's.







After that, the hunt for axles was on. Picked up these ugly mugs for $600. Front is a '95 F350 HP D60, rear is unknown year C&C 14 bolt. I also bought a detroit for the front and plan to weld up the rear.






Started with the rear. Easiest first, right? Cut off the huge truss, welded on shock tabs and spring perches, and set it up for disk brakes. Still gotta weld the spiders, add 2 in wheel spacers, and set up brakelines.







 

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Discussion Starter #4
And this is where I am as of right now. I work and am in school, so progress wont be super quick.


Question:

I understand that with a 4 link, the distance between the links plays a huge part in how everything works. Is this as true with a 3 link?

Basically, I am going to have to move my 2 links apart by 5" (2.5" on each link). Should that affect anything? Panhard and upper link will stay in the same places.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Friend of a family friend deal. It has high milage but runs great. 170,000 miles, 5.4 Triton with towing package, towing gears with limited slip. It towed the taco to Harlan and back last year with no trouble (before it was my truck). Between brakes, painting the grill, new emblem, wheels, and tires (got rid of the 30's with steel wheels and went to 18" alloys with 32's), I have about $3000 into it so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No pictures, but more progress has been made. Got the detroit in the front axle, finished cleaning it up, and got all the tabs/panhard bracket welded on. Also pulled the rear carrier and realized its a GOV-LOC after I was told it was open by the previous owner. Oh well.
 

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Looks good. One piece of advice though, I would not trust the front upper link mount being welded to the diff, I've seen too many MIG welds attaching to cast centersections break, and from all the stuff you broke before, I'd say you have a good chance of ripping that upp link bracket off. You might could tie it into the the front diff cover (with a bolt-on bracket), or maybe truss it and attach it to both axle tubes. I've seen plenty of axles that were heavily trussed bust the upper link bracket off, so I'd be real worried about yours.

Side note, what's your frame height now? I am building a 3-link Tacoma to run 37's and am trying to keep it as low as possible, but that's proving to be pretty tough. My old tacoma was probably 27-29" best I remember, with about the same setup you have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks good. One piece of advice though, I would not trust the front upper link mount being welded to the diff, I've seen too many MIG welds attaching to cast centersections break, and from all the stuff you broke before, I'd say you have a good chance of ripping that upp link bracket off. You might could tie it into the the front diff cover (with a bolt-on bracket), or maybe truss it and attach it to both axle tubes. I've seen plenty of axles that were heavily trussed bust the upper link bracket off, so I'd be real worried about yours.

Side note, what's your frame height now? I am building a 3-link Tacoma to run 37's and am trying to keep it as low as possible, but that's proving to be pretty tough. My old tacoma was probably 27-29" best I remember, with about the same setup you have now.
I kinks its hard to see, but the link tabs are tied into a whole mini truss deal that has a ton of surface area welded to the diff, and a little welded on the tube. I'm more worried about the lower DS link tabs. I'm outta town for spring break but I'll measure when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Side note, what's your frame height now? I am building a 3-link Tacoma to run 37's and am trying to keep it as low as possible, but that's proving to be pretty tough. My old tacoma was probably 27-29" best I remember, with about the same setup you have now.
I measured it but forgot to post it. Pretty sure it was 26in. Ill check tomorrow when I put the tires back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I have been making a good bit of headway. Replaced an axleshaft ujoint and got it installed, got everything bolted together and loaded it on the trailer to run it to a friends place who has air and a big compressor to knock both the pinion nuts off.






I was able to knock the front pinion yoke off and replace it with my triple drilled flange and get the driveshaft bolted up, but I have yet to be able to beat the rear pinion yoke off and replace it with my high angle driveline adapter Jess made for me. Also removed the master cylinder and brake booster for a dual diaphragm booster and chevy 1ton master cylinder.

Tomorrow, I am gonna cut the panhard bar down 2inches and sleeve, lengthen the drag link and get the correct TRE for it, and make an adapter to bolt the master to the booster.

My biggest problem right now is finding brake line adapters. For the rear, I have a braided brake line that is smaller than a 10mm but I don't know what size it is. Gotta adapt that to a tee and then hook into the calipers on the 14 bolt. Also, need adapters for the master cylinder to get it to the 10mm taco hardlines.
 

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Axle is in. Only about 1.5in off center. Not bad for basically eyeballing it.
The following picture deff makes that evident..

Looks good though.

So, let me get it right, you're still running the All-Pro link kit just with the a different axle? Doesn't look like you changed any of the frame bracket or anything.


Maybe I missed it, but what gear ratio will you be running?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So, let me get it right, you're still running the All-Pro link kit just with the a different axle? Doesn't look like you changed any of the frame bracket or anything.


Maybe I missed it, but what gear ratio will you be running?
The gangsta lean will be fixed today.

On the link kit, yes. I have been very happy with it... The truck has always flexes like mad. Actually, my only complaint for the "kit" was the bracket for the drivers lower link attaching to the axle, but I know it wasn't made for a d44 so I won't go into that.

Previously, I was running 37s and 4.88s. With a taco box, automatic, and supercharger, it was way to low geared for the wheeling we have here in the south east. These axles had 4.10s in them so I am keeping them. Welded rear, detroit front.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got all the brake lines plumed, including a summit proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Also got the steering link lengthened and the correct TRE installed and the panhard bar shortened 2". Gonna install steering and panhard bar tomorrow and get it on its wheels and tires. At that point, all that remains is welding tabs for the hydro assist ram, machining spacer for the master cylinder, and installing the new booster and master cylinder.

Oh, and still can't get rear yoke off. Got an idea im gonna try tomorrow.
 
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