I'm sorry, we haven't written any articles specifically about fitting 33" tires without any lift, but I ran them on my little red Tacoma and the Donahoe Tacoma for a while. The red truck rode at stock height and the Donahoe truck was obviously lifted, but they both need the exact same tire clearance. It doesn't matter how much you lift a truck or what the ride height is. Full compression is where tire clearance matters.
The best way to do this is put the vehicle on jack-stands, remove the coil-overs, reinstall the wheel/tire and then cycle the suspension towards full compression. You will notice rubbing on some of the plastic panels and the pinch-weld on the firewall, etc., but after a little bit of careful trimming and hammering the tires will clear at full compression and lock-to-lock steering without any noticable interference.
The same process/advise applies to any vehicle/tire size/suspension type. For the rear suspension, you only have to remove your leaf-springs, disassemble the pack and then reinstall the main leaf spring (maybe the second spring too, depending on the truck and the leaf-pack) on the truck. Then you can cycle the suspension with a floor-jack to determine the PERFECT shock placement or check for body clearance, etc. It's time-consuming, but it's better than a pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey approach to shck placement, tire/fender clearance, etc.
Hope that helps. If this is a topic that enough people are interested in, maybe we can try to write-up something Tacoma-specific. We are going to publish an article that covers the major points of this type of work (applied to out Donahoe Tacoma-length leafspring-equipped 1st gen. 4Runner) with Off Road magazine sometime in the next few months.