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YOTAPHILIC
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
35's yah or nah

Has anyone had problems with 35's putting noticeably more stress and wear on IFS drivetrain components compared to 33's. Im sure the extra weight and size does, I'm just wondering if you who have experience with this think the extra 2" is worth it for a daily driver. Thanks
 

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well im replacing the front cv for teh second time in 2 months since the 35s. im not definite it the tires causing it but maybe. i am runnins swampers which are heavier then most. plan on regearing because if not you will have a virtual boat behind you all the time if you dont. im thinking that everthing that had worn with the 33s is just lettin go with the 35s. hopefully this will be the last axle. i cant really complain, they are aftermarket and are bein replaced under warranty.

Justin
 

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SKUUT said:
Has anyone had problems with 35's putting noticeably more stress and wear on IFS drivetrain components compared to 33's. Im sure the extra weight and size does, I'm just wondering if you who have experience with this think the extra 2" is worth it for a daily driver. Thanks
Depends on how you drive and what you consider excess wear? I ran 35's on IFS for 2 years, my truck saw as many hard trails as I could find. I never once broke a CV and I went thru one cv boot every 7-8 months? I did destroy my front diff on the rubicon but it was leaking oil and I had just put the super charger on my truck, so I'm sure that didn't help!

I now run 35's on my wifes 4runner and it has been doing just fine!
 

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Each truck is different with its own unique nuances. 35's might work fine on an identical make and model, while on another, it'll cause the CV axles to break.

I know that 35's is the recommended max on a front Dana 44 in a twin traction beam Ford - the weight and width of the wheel/tire combo is usually too much for the drivetrain to handle, and axle u-joints are known to break. Even so, there are a few Fords with 37's on the stock drivetrain that are doing fine, while others have had to upgrade by swapping in a heavier duty Dana 60 up front.

Tacomas are tough, and I've seen many do fine with big tires and 35's. But I've also heard of a few with broken front CV axles - usually due to a combination of big tires and a locked front. I think this is one of the main reasons (aside from better articulation) why some have gone with a solid axle swap up front.

Just my uneducated opinion....
 

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It really depends on how much lift and skinny pedal you use. I've been running 35's on my rig for over 8 months now and only broke 2 axles wheelin, but both cases it could have easily been avoided. For DD, there has been no issues at all.
 

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SKUUT said:
Has anyone had problems with 35's putting noticeably more stress and wear on IFS drivetrain components compared to 33's. Im sure the extra weight and size does, I'm just wondering if you who have experience with this think the extra 2" is worth it for a daily driver. Thanks
From experience the 35's with the way i drove my truck will snap the CV's like toothpicks, I went through 30+ CV shafts when i had IFS and 35's, when i had 33's i think i only broke 2-3. then again where i ride wheel speed is needed alot, so the skinny peddle gets used alot. the lighter the tire you run the better, so if you run a swamper they will be heavier, have more traction and break more stuff than say a MT/R or something. BTW the 35's i ran were MT/R's, then i decided to run 36" TSL's and then it was a given that i was going to break 2-3 shafts per ride.

EDIT: for a daily driver that doesnt see the trails much you shouldnt have many problems. just normal wear and tear, might want to keep an eye on your wheel bearings if you run a wheel with low backspacing. ie 3.5 or less
 

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SKUUT said:
bump debumpdump

While I have never broken a CV with my 35s, I carry two around at all times. Also my bearings and ball joints are just fine as well.

Something no one mentioned is steering. SAY GOODBYE to your power steering system. It may just be me, or a fluke, but I have not had any luck with steering my steering system since putting on 35s. Everything else is fine, but it seems right now anywhere that can leak is leaking, so it's disconnected. Lucky I have the 2.7 so I can just take off the one belt other wise I'd be screwed.

I recommend a HUGE power steering cooler at least. If you can make a larger capacity reseviour it will also help but a COOLER on the power steering fluid return line is a NECESSITY with 35s. I think Rob Cannon or The Dick is using an aluminum heat sink style with a built in filter which is what I recommend over the "tube and fin" style because it doesn't need much airflow to work well, and has a filter.

I don't want anyone to go through the shit I have with my steering because it gets annoying an expensive. Get a HUGE cooler when you go with 35s.

Puckett
 

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Puckett said:
Something no one mentioned is steering. SAY GOODBYE to your power steering system. It may just be me, or a fluke, but I have not had any luck with steering my steering system since putting on 35s.

Puckett

Yeah and that too. my steering when to hell when i put the 35's on way back when, and i totally agree about the cooler.
 

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Yep, adding a cooler is a good idea, but as long as you don't force the steering wheel, you shouldn't have any problems. I still have the same rack and have only changed the inner boots that got torn on the rocks. My stock rubber mounts finally needed to replaced as well, went with the urethane one's...

If you live on the eastcoast, where most of your wheelin is on those slick muddy trails up through the trees, you'll definately be snapping CV's left and right with 35's.

BTW I should add that a crawl box and front locker, makes it easier to break things, if your not very careful.
 
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