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Discussion Starter #1
Been researching on cylinder heads and came up with a shop in Portland aluminum head builders, talked a little about my options.
It's a 96 3rz haven't pulled the head yet but I'm confident the head is cracked, burning coolant and misfire. So do I go with rebuilt toyota head with who knows how many miles it had for $500, or get a brand new china head for $685?
He basically said the toyota heads are crap they all crack, but never seen the chinas ever have any problems. Kinda optimistic about china building better parts then the manufacture of the engine.
 

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How many miles on the truck, have the valves been adjusted or checked? I wouldn't even consider buying a head until I tore down the old one. May just be a gasket or maybe a cracked cylinder wall.

Given your two options listed though, I would just rebuild the one I have, it may be significantly cheaper if you can find a local shop in a warehouse with an old guy that knows what he's doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be nice if its just a head gasket, I always expect the worst, no I have not ever checked the valves, truck has 186k, about a year ago I hit a deer, everything from the core support foreword was a loss, rebuilt it and noticed I was having to add a gallon of coolant to it bi weekly, it seemed as if it was running hot, I'd shut it off and here bubbles in the overflow coolant bottle. So I started changing parts like thermostat, and fan clutch with no luck problem still exists. Last week it started misfiring so I researched and found pages of cracked heads, or Burnt valves. So I checked compression.
1=152
2=172
3=170
4=185
Then I put a code reader on it, said #2 misfire, did the leak down check on #2 and the air can be heard in the airbox, not the exhaust though. When it's warm and idels at 1000 rpm or lower it misfires, overall it's not noticeable when driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just pulled the head, counted 5 cracks, #2 cylinder was full of coolant. I guess I'm going to order the china head, I'm a little timid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll give them a call Monday thanks, it's not very common for me to put china parts on anything. Have you ever needed to add any shims for the valve clearances? No shims on the disassembling.
 

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They are usually on the tighter end of the spec, I like to set the exhaust to .015" (on the loose side) to be safe, they will only tighten up over time. Usually half of the shims need to be adjusted. Intake side is always good, I just check the min clearance (.006") because those valves will not burn like exhaust will, so adjustment is not as crucial.
 

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Cylinder Head

I torched 3 valves on my stock head. I went with a place called Odessa Cylinder heads from E-bay. I believe they were out of Florida. Great guys to deal with. I bought a new head (bolt and go complete with cams) and returned my old one as a core. 10,000 miles so far and no issues. - PT

FYI - A 96' is an 8-port/Distributor engine so heads are plentiful for it if you want to go the salvage yard route.
 

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I torched 3 valves on my stock head. I went with a place called Odessa Cylinder heads from E-bay. I believe they were out of Florida. Great guys to deal with. I bought a new head (bolt and go complete with cams) and returned my old one as a core. 10,000 miles so far and no issues. - PT

FYI - A 96' is an 8-port/Distributor engine so heads are plentiful for it if you want to go the salvage yard route.
Odessa IS Clearwater Cylinder Heads. Same company, just depends on who picks up the phone over there. Very strange, don't ask me.

Why do they feel the need to include cams? Clearwater said you can swap the cams.
Cams are inspected and cleaned before being sent out with the head. Use the cams that come with the new head and ship yours back with the core. Sometimes they include a cam gear sprocket as well, but just use yours. Don't mix new & old timing components to be on the safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well my cylinder head is here but now I don't know the torque specs on the cylinder head, or the cam caps, anyone know? I didn't download a fsm in time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's close to being back together, should run after tomorrow, I was looking at the distributer a little and noticed the timing marks down by the crank pulley, I cannot find anything about what degree it should be after 45 miniutes of research, anyone know? Interesting place for the fuel filter. Also if anyone know's of a good vacuum line diagram just for the Tbi that would be a help also.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Now the engine won't turn over when the chain tentioner is tight, if I back off the nuts a couple rounds it rolls over. The dots aline, no spark plugs installed:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Figured it the chain tentioner has to be compressed then locked, then you install it the flip the latch that unlocks it.
 

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Figured it the chain tentioner has to be compressed then locked, then you install it the flip the latch that unlocks it.
Yup. Install and pull the grenade pin.
The crank should be at TDC to set the timing. Remember to clock the distributor correctly when you install.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yea those coolant lines are whipping me. Got a toyota service Manuel from the toyota house so I got some reading to do. I tried cranking it over, and my tach starts to peg out :confused: but that coolant line is still disconnected, I hope that's the problem, but I have my doubts, I also couldn't help to notice it turning over faster then usual, kinda like there's no compression. Dots line up on cams, upper timing chain sprocket dot faces up with number one a tdc, never got to see bottom timing chain sprocket, but I never turned the engine, and zip tied that chain to the upper sprocket. So I think I'm going to strip it down again and take the timing chain cover off this time.
 
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