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So my stock cast exhaust manifold was severely cracked, I replaced it with a Pacesetter header, but the EGR bracket was clocked wrong and I couldn't install the EGR pipe. I deleted the EGR system, took the EGR apart to get the connector that plugs into the engine harness. I soldered a 10k ohm resistor across the blades and plugged it into the harness, but I'm still getting a CEL and throwing the EGR code. I checked with a multi-meter and I am reading 10k ohm resistance through the plug, so I'm not sure why it would still throw a code unless a 10k ohm resistor is the wrong resistance. Anybody have experience with getting rid of the CEL?
 

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You might have to try some different resistance values to dial things in with the ECU. Higher resistance = lower EGR flow and lower resistance = higher EGR flow. You might try a 12k or 15k and see if that works. The 10k value seems to be the tried and true number that most have made work.

EGR Temp sensor:
At 50°C (122°F): 64 - 97 k Ohms
At 100°C (212°F): 11 - 16 k Ohms
At 150°C (302°F): 2 - 4 k Ohms

You could also try resetting the ECU to see if that will help it re-learn the maps and values differently.
 

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So if you try different ohms to see it will work do you still have to use only a 1/2 watt or more will be needed?
 
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