[[email protected]]

Hi there, I spent this last weekend putting this all together

I'll update throughout the week, and I will be at Az rocks testing it out for sure...

I used 9 inch lift coils from a TJ kit, and 1 1/4" heims for the links. at the other end I used poly bushings, but may need to rethink that after experiencing some death wobble last night. Check out the rest at

www.members.cox.net/drvic723

-Jeff

 

[AK98Taco]

I think it came out very nice!

I'm sure you will cover this question in your update, but just in case: What wall thickness is the tubing for your links, primarily your lowers?

Thanks, and great job!

 

[PappaF2]

nice job. I couldn't tell by looking but to you have any sort of bracket/tab attaching the poly bushing to the frame on the inside of the frame rail? just wondering cause it looks like you just ran the bolt through the frame and mounted the bushing in single sheer. IF so that could be the cause of your death wobble.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the input, Im using 8 inch 3/4" grade 8 bolts that pass through the frame like you said, but the frame is braced front and back with 1/4" plate, and where the bolt passes through the plates it is welded. Should I consider changing that setup? I think the most pressing matter is the bushings. I reused the poly bushings from the springs I took off, and I could tell they had worn a bit.

 

[AK98Taco]

From everything I've read on Pirate and heard from suspension engineers, you should retain the bushing at the frame end if you are using the vehicle as a daily driver, for the specific reasons of death wobble and noise.

Try replacing the bushings and see what goes.

 

[[email protected]]

for the links I actually got some .2 wall 1.1 ID DOM, and was gong to have my friend thread them out, turns out he didnt have a #7 pitch point that would fit in such a small tube, so he just turned them out to 1.25 ID (the size of the heims) and then I welded a nut to the end, and sleeved the entire length with 1 3/4" 11 gauge tube. Should be pretty stout, the overall wall thickness is around .3 now. For jam nuts I just cut some normal ones in half. The heims are acutally tractor linkages that you buy for 58 bucks and then just use the 2 heims. One is RH and the other LH thread. The threads are 8" long, so I cut them in half and used the remainder for the bushing side.

 

[roctaco]

i like what you've done, especially since everyone says you can't do 4-links on the front end. If I were you, though, I'd make a bracket come from the frame behind the upper link bushing to the outside of those bushings to strengthen that mount substantially. I'd also consider gusseting the backside of the upper link mounts on the 9-inch, just to add more material to that area for strength. I'd love it if you'd do a writeup on your site with details about your choice of materials, measurements, any specific problems you encountered, cost of materials, etc. AND MORE PICS! Thanx.

 

[tacodab]

Hi there, I spent this last weekend putting this all together

I'll update throughout the week, and I will be at Az rocks testing it out for sure...

I used 9 inch lift coils from a TJ kit, and 1 1/4" heims for the links. at the other end I used poly bushings, but may need to rethink that after experiencing some death wobble last night. Check out the rest at

www.members.cox.net/drvic723

-Jeff

have you considered a pan hard bar? I know the 4 link is not supposed to need it but it will help control the death wobble problem. you are using the 4 link system as a "push" rather than a "pull" as you would in a rear 4 link setup. hard to explain...its like pushing a trailer down the road rather then pulling it. try and keep the trailer from jack knifing. that is kid of what death wobble is in this case. that is all I can think of to help the situation.

 

[[email protected]]

Thats a good idea it makes sense. Just asking though, if Im not "pushing", im just coasting (not in 4X4) and the vibrations start at a very low speed, if you drove a truck with 4 link in the rear backward at 15 mph would anything happen? If nothing helps the problem, I will definatley resort to the panhard, but tomorrow I will get brand new bushings and update. Thanks

 

[tacodab]

Thats a good idea it makes sense. Just asking though, if Im not "pushing", im just coasting (not in 4X4) and the vibrations start at a very low speed, if you drove a truck with 4 link in the rear backward at 15 mph would anything happen? If nothing helps the problem, I will definatley resort to the panhard, but tomorrow I will get brand new bushings and update. Thanks

The difference with driving a 4 link rear backward is it has no steering. it may not be cause of the problem, not having a pan hard. but it was a thought. good luck. I will have to check your rig out at AZ rocks that 4 link setup is way cool.

 

[PappaF2]

dean thats true, any time you run a triangulated 4 link on a front end with "normal" steering (not full hydro) you will get bump steer.

 

[AK98Taco]

That should be stout enough. It's a light truck.

 

[AK98Taco]

Excellent point!

There is not enough lateral stability in the triangles alone to keep the axle from shifting side to side, especially when steering or flexing.

 

[[email protected]]

changed out the bushings, drives awesome now, just needs some profesional alignment.

 

[tacodab]

sweet good to hear.

 

[AK98Taco]

That's good. It's always nice when the fix is something simple.

 

[Tacominator]

have you considered a pan hard bar?

Jeff, that looks great! We need to go for a shakedown run sometime this week.

You cannot run a pan hard bar with a triangulated setup. With a triangulated the axle travels straight up and down and articulates, the panhard requires the axle to move left to right as it follows tha arc of the track bar. It would bind like crazy if you added one to that setup. It looks like his draglink is fairly flat which is all that really can be tuned for bump steer...

 

[tacodab]

Jeff, that looks great! We need to go for a shakedown run sometime this week.

You cannot run a pan hard bar with a triangulated setup. With a triangulated the axle travels straight up and down and articulates, the panhard requires the axle to move left to right as it follows tha arc of the track bar. It would bind like crazy if you added one to that setup. It looks like his draglink is fairly flat which is all that really can be tuned for bump steer...

good call, see I told you that was only a thought. sorry for the miss info.

 

[[email protected]]

here is a pic from last night while I was playing around in the wash, pic is blurry, but on saturday I'll get some good ones

 

[WILD YOTE]

WOW! That's wicked bad flexy.