4 link triangulated with TJ coils

tacodab said:

good call, see I told you that was only a thought. sorry for the miss info.

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You were just trying to help! Dean, I was just looking at your pictures- what happened to that rolled taco? And that rear axle? Looks rough, yet fun? Nice looking site too, lots of good stuff on there...

i luv u dean,u are sooo koor! haha

jrizman said:

i luv u dean,u are sooo koor! haha

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damn it johnny I am not coor I am of the coor

What kind of set-up are running in the rear? That flex is crazy-nutso.

The rears are the 63" chevy springs with the overload removed. Using triangulated 12" rs9000s, but I'm going to change that soon enough (the shocks & location). Not quite ready for the rear 4 link just yet, I still want to have a life and a little money... -Jeff

I am looking at thios setup. I have a ford hp dana 44 1977. I plan on using radius arms. What did you use for the upper mounts for the coils. U think i could use the coil mounts on the radius arms?
BTW Nice rig Coils arent used that often (thats why i like the setup)

I tried finding a "bolt on" coil bucket, but all that I found had the shock mount integrated only about 6 inches from the top of the spring; that only allows you to run 10" or so shock length unless you put the lower shock mounts really low. I just made mine and those will have to stay until I can really think of something that will work good (need to get an upper bushing in there). I'm looking for a coil bucket that has an integrated upper bushing and bumpstop for anyone that knows how to source parts better than me... -Jeff

The problem with 4 link or triangulated suspension in the front is that it stays centered. By it staying centered it doesn't allow for a axle shift to keep the steering linkage in phase with axle which means it turns slightly after every bump. Just think A2xB2=C2. The only way to lower the amount of bumpsteer would be to get the angle of steering linkage as flat as possible.

yep, you're right, and its a2+b2=c2... guess I'll just have to go to full hydro setup then... bump steer is not bad at all, its only bad when you jump the truck and the axle is fully droop'd and the truck lands, but thankfully the truck is not in the air too much, I should be fine

looks good
i dont know much about link suspension....

http://www.members.cox.net/drvic851r/4link8.JPG

in that pic,..the frame link, is that a bolt running through the frame? is there any gusseting added or is it not needed?


like is said, i am no expert and just looking for more info on a setup like this


thanks

Looks awesome man, I have a set of 7" TJ coils up the attic. I have been toying with the idea for sometime now, but now that I have all the coilover stuff figured out Im really leaning towards them.

I plan to run a triangulted 4-link front and rear with my front outer links on the outside of the frame, mounted just below the middle of the door .Then the mounts on the axle about 6-8" taller than the tube so my links are more parallel to the ground. Then put a bend in the links to keep the tires from rubbing on the links at full lock.

DrVic said:

Hi there, I spent this last weekend putting this all together

I'll update throughout the week, and I will be at Az rocks testing it out for sure...

I used 9 inch lift coils from a TJ kit, and 1 1/4" heims for the links. at the other end I used poly bushings, but may need to rethink that after experiencing some death wobble last night. Check out the rest at

www.members.cox.net/drvic723

-Jeff

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How do the lower links affect clearance? I know that a link system helps approach angles as compared to leafs. But, how does it differ in relation to clearance behind the front tire? I want to eventually SAS, and am considering my options. since you have run both leafs and coils on your front,it would be great if you could describe the differences. Thanks.

my 4 cents about links versus leafs....its about tire size and clearance..i was really surprised to see the links guys on 35's at az rocks getting hung up on their lower links and their link crossmembers.... really surprised me...the only advantage of coilovers is ride comfort....coils..not sure....they are flexy suspension for sure..i am sure rides pretty good...i have leafs...i got no gripes...i didnt have clearance issues like the link guys did at az rocks...but i got bigger tires as well...so....go from there...

Well it is an issue. My lowers are tucked up inside the frame. I've only hung up there once. The stronger you make them the better. All my links are 1.5" 0.437 wall DOM. Hope this helps. -Josh.

YUNADERIS said:

my 4 cents about links versus leafs....its about tire size and clearance..i was really surprised to see the links guys on 35's at az rocks getting hung up on their lower links and their link crossmembers.... really surprised me...the only advantage of coilovers is ride comfort....coils..not sure....they are flexy suspension for sure..i am sure rides pretty good...i have leafs...i got no gripes...i didnt have clearance issues like the link guys did at az rocks...but i got bigger tires as well...so....go from there...

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thanks for your input. When I eventually make the swap, I would like to run at least 35" tires but 37's would also be nice. By then, I will have no problem trimming major sheetmetal to get them to fit.

JOSHHOEFER said:

Well it is an issue. My lowers are tucked up inside the frame. I've only hung up there once. The stronger you make them the better. All my links are 1.5" 0.437 wall DOM. Hope this helps. -Josh.

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your information is great. It actually made me realize that I will end up with leafs. I am not a skilled fabricator, and will have to get a kit that can be welded into place. I have access to the necessary tools (plasma cutter, welders, and people who know how to use them). I can do the install work myself, I just dont know how to make links and such.

Hey, I am also considering some bent lower links... I have since added an XJ front sway bar and things are great. My only concern now is getting johnny joints onto all of the ends. Leafs are a hell of alot easier to setup granted, but I like this setup more. The axle is 6 inches farther forward than stock, no way to do that with leafs (at least not with my old setup as far as I know...) I know kirk put his up a ways too. I too am considering just ditching the whole coil thing for coil overs, but its not really worth the grand to me now, these work great and ride good. (they flex like mad too, I will have some new crazy rti ramp pics on my site as soon as I can find another free ftp client program to use....) -Jeff

Johnny joints are nice, rebuildable for one thing. The other thing is that heims overtime they wear out, sometimes within a few months and they start knocking and banging because as the metal gets wholard out between the joint housing and the spherical piece. This is often caused by poor setup the heims are pushed beyond their angle of misalignment.

Your coil set up flexes very well from the pics. What size tires are you running. Im wanting to run 39.5" IROKs, I dont think I should have a problem considering I will set up my suspension the way I want to and trim the fenders out extensively.

What is your axle WMS to WMS out of curiousity.

Later