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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, the truck is apart, on stands, and it has been sitting in the driveway for the past 4 days.

All of the sudden, out of the blue, it decides to leak on me. I come home from work and I have a pretty good sized leak on the driveway. Feeling at the back of the motor, I've pinpointed it to the heater hoses.

Specifically where it comes out of the middle of the block, into a 90* elbow that bends up and connects to a hose.

Looked in the FSM for a cooling diagram so I can figure out WTF to do, but haven't been able to find one. Has anyone had a problem similar?
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #2
Better yet, does someone have a picture of the back of the 5VZ?
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #4
Perfect!

How is that center tin piece held on? That's what is leaking
 

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You talking about the piece with the "X" on it? You have to remove the upper and lower intake and you'll see it runs from front to back of the engine, under the intake of course.
 

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The end of the tube that runs to the front of the block has two screws that fasten it via a flange and is sealed with FIPG, and if I remember correctly there is also a screw on the other side of that plate for support. If you have a leak from that by-pass tube, coolant will fill up between the heads and leak past that plate. Another possibilty is a HG leak. Either way you need to get that leak fixed.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #7
Great.

So I'm able to access this spot without moving the motor, just pullin the intake manifold?

This blows. A long shot, but do you have a pic with the manifold off, or what this part is called?
 

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Yep, no need to pull the motor. You just need to remove the air chambers and intake manifold. If you want more pics, let me know. I took pictures at every step while rebuilding my engine so I have a lot of them.
 

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hmm that sucks. I had to pull the intake manifold on my dads chevy 350 after i blew the gasket racing some dude. I didnt even realize it untill i pulled into a gas station and i let the smoke out. Luckily the radiator is massive in that thing and it held ALOT of fluid. Guess what truck pulled her home?!?!?! The good old toyota!:)
Kinda looked funny when a lifted toyota was pulling home a half ton chevy!
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, no need to pull the motor. You just need to remove the air chambers and intake manifold. If you want more pics, let me know. I took pictures at every step while rebuilding my engine so I have a lot of them.
If you could post pictures, that would be great. It would give me a much better view of what I'm dealing with.

I'm really hoping it's not the head gasket. Everything has seemed fine up to this point with no issues.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #13

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To get to the by-pass tube the only major items to remove are the air chamber assembly and the intake manifold, plus the associated hoses and other pain in the ass parts. Only three screws fasten it to the block. When I did my rebuild I removed the by-pass after removing the heads, but you should be able to slide it right out to the rear without removing the heads. That end plate is the only thing captured between the heads.

Here are a few views of whats under there:





If you wind up removing the tube, I would use the recommended Toyota seal packing 1282B for the install. And be careful you dont break the knock sensor wires while your in there. One of them clips to the by-pass tube.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #15
To get to the by-pass tube the only major items to remove are the air chamber assembly and the intake manifold, plus the associated hoses and other pain in the ass parts. Only three screws fasten it to the block. When I did my rebuild I removed the by-pass after removing the heads, but you should be able to slide it right out to the rear without removing the heads. That end plate is the only thing captured between the heads.

Here are a few views of whats under there:





If you wind up removing the tube, I would use the recommended Toyota seal packing 1282B for the install. And be careful you dont break the knock sensor wires while your in there. One of them clips to the by-pass tube.
Thanks a MILLION

I see how it's in there now. Looks like I only need to slip it back 1/5" or so then pull it up. Should be just fine with the xover pipe in the way.

Thanks for the heads up on the seal packing. I think I have some leftover from a project a while back.


BTW, clean 5vZ!
 

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Thanks. I completely rebuilt the engine from the ground up and had fun doing it.

Before you start taking things apart, make sure the leak isn't actually coming from the hose attached to the by-pass tube and dripping down that plate. If coolant is leaking behind the plate then you may have a small lake under the intake manifold. Good luck.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #17
It's not. The elbow bent upwards is dry, plate is dry, but right under the plate is wet :(
 

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My donor engine also had a leak under the intake manifold prior. I took the first picture the day after I picked up the engine and got it on the stand. You can see the coolant residue around the plate, and based on the rust level in the tear down pic, that is how much coolant filled up under the manifold. It was hard to tell where the leak came from, but it looked like the hg was leaking pretty good but not into the cylinders. I think the PO of the donor 4Runner ran like this for a while.




 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #19
Now this is really wierd.

Truck is back together, and I drove it for a couple days, and then let it sit for a couple of days. It hasn't leaked since.

So, it sits for a week or so, it leaks, but if I drive it, no leaks.


I'll probably still end up tearing down into it, but does this clue point me in any direction?
 

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only thing i can think of is when the motor gets hot things expand slightly, the seals seal up all the crevaces. but when it sits and its cold cracks and crevaces contract, allowing fluids to seep.
 
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