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Now this is really wierd.

Truck is back together, and I drove it for a couple days, and then let it sit for a couple of days. It hasn't leaked since.

So, it sits for a week or so, it leaks, but if I drive it, no leaks.


I'll probably still end up tearing down into it, but does this clue point me in any direction?
You said back together did you take the hose off and put it back on how far did you go?

If you took the hose off and put it back on that may have been it! Bad connection made good when re-connected!
 

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Now this is really wierd.

Truck is back together, and I drove it for a couple days, and then let it sit for a couple of days. It hasn't leaked since.

So, it sits for a week or so, it leaks, but if I drive it, no leaks.


I'll probably still end up tearing down into it, but does this clue point me in any direction?
Thermal expansion of the engine components could very well account for the leak stopping when the engine is at operating temp, but you still have a leak and should fix it. If a gasket is leaking it will get worse and fail at some point.

What you do know is you have a leak, and you are quite certain it originates behind the by-pass tube plate. If there is indeed a leak in this area, the source could be:

1. By-pass tube/block junction.
2. Intake manifold gasket(s).
3. Freeze plug(s).
4. Head gasket(s).

If this was my engine leaking, I would have already bought the air chamber & intake manifold gaskets, then removed those components to look for the leak. Scenarios 1-3 are the easiest to fix, head gaskets obviously a little more involved. If you find a leak here, I'd say 1 or 2 are the most likely culprits.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Discussion Starter #23
Oops, sorry. Back together meant hte rest of the truck, haven't touched the motor.

I just drove it once I popped the gears in, and it hasn't leaked since, even if it sits for a couple days.

When I get back form this academy next week, and I see a good week to do it, I will tear into this motor and find this leak once and for all. At least now I don't have to worry TOO much.

Thanks CAD!
 

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I just wanted to give a quick thanks for posting those pics!! I have been looking for pics like that for months.. My wifes 4Runner has either a bad knock sensor or a problem with the wires that run under the intake and wondered what everything looked like with the intake off. Also, I have a pending valve cover gasket job to do on the motor so I may just have to dive into the valve cover gaskets and the knock sensor issue at the same time. I saved your pics for future reference, hope you dont mind.
 

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To get to the by-pass tube the only major items to remove are the air chamber assembly and the intake manifold, plus the associated hoses and other pain in the ass parts. Only three screws fasten it to the block. When I did my rebuild I removed the by-pass after removing the heads, but you should be able to slide it right out to the rear without removing the heads. That end plate is the only thing captured between the heads.

Here are a few views of whats under there:





If you wind up removing the tube, I would use the recommended Toyota seal packing 1282B for the install. And be careful you dont break the knock sensor wires while your in there. One of them clips to the by-pass tube.
hey there sorry for my noob confusion here but i was wondering if this toyota seal packing 1282b that was mentioned in this post is the same as the black fpig p/n 1281 seal packing? i went to toyota and they just have the red and black seal packing. is this something else? or is it just the regurlar black seal packing toyota sells?
 

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hey there sorry for my noob confusion here but i was wondering if this toyota seal packing 1282b that was mentioned in this post is the same as the black fpig p/n 1281 seal packing? i went to toyota and they just have the red and black seal packing. is this something else? or is it just the regurlar black seal packing toyota sells?
It is different than the black 102 FIPG. 1282B is for components that come in contact with coolant, the 102 is for joints that contact oil, and the red seal packing is for the tranny, transfercase and diffs.
 

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It is different than the black 102 FIPG. 1282B is for components that come in contact with coolant, the 102 is for joints that contact oil, and the red seal packing is for the tranny, transfercase and diffs.
thanks, i appreciate the reply. the guy behind the counter at toyota couldn't come up with any other type of seal packing. maybe if i explain to him its for things that come into contact with coolant it might ring a bell for him.
 

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Hey norcalpr. Did u ever get around to fixing this on your truck? I just started haveing this same prob with my 01 Tacoma. Just wondering how much time it took you and what I need to get in the way of parts ordered? Any help would be appriciated
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Parts I'm going to order to tear into this. I figure I can order freeze plugs at the auto parts store if needbe...

1 - FIPG 08826-00100
1 - 17176-62040 - Gasket from Air Intake Chamber Assy to Intake Air Connector Assy (Gasket between upper and lower intake assembly)
1- 17176-62040 - Gasket from Intake Air Connector Assy - Intake Manifold (Gasket between lower and manifold)
1 - 90301-07024 - O-Ring for Fuel Pressure Regulator
1 - 17177-62060 - Intake Manifold Gakset (Left side)*
1 - 17177-62060 - Intake Manifold Gasket ( Right Side)*

* - May be sold together...

-P
 

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Sweet. Thank you Phill.
I'll see if Toyota can get these together by tomorrow.
I'm set to start this Saturday morning (if I can swap out the CV on the 06 quick enough). I don't know how far we'll get, regardless - I'll post pics/progress.
Trevor
 

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So I just got off the phone with Toyota.

Prices were:
1 - FIPG 08826-00100..Toyota said they only have 00103?? It's used for all engine and is black????
1 - Gasket from Air Intake Chamber Assy to Intake Air Connector Assy (Gasket between upper and lower intake assembly)....$12.06
1- Gasket from Intake Air Connector Assy - Intake Manifold (Gasket between lower and manifold)......Same part# as above......$12.06
1 - O-Ring for Fuel Pressure Regulator......$3.00
1 - Intake Manifold Gakset (Left side)*.....$56.00!!!
1 - Intake Manifold Gasket ( Right Side)*.....$56.00!!

* - May be sold together...They are sold seperately.

Toyota said the manifold gaskets are a few days out. So not sure if I'll get to those this weekend.
Trevor
 

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No. They are the local dealer.
I was going to hop into ASAP and can't wait on shipping.
I might try TOD and see the difference. Might be worth the wait....LOL
 

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u guys ever figure this leak out? Mine had a leak coming from the coolant shut off valve controlled by a wire from the hot/cold thermostat inside the cab. just ran a strait through connector cause i think its for the a/c to just block off hot water from gettin to the heater core
 

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I've been driving mine daily 5 days straight with 0 leaks. Not even a drop. I've checked the foam area around the bypass tube, and it's dry. My dad and I were thinking when I dropped the trans, I knocked something loose briefly. regardless - I went to tear into it Saturday - and the local Toyota dealer lied to me. I got down there - and the guy brings back the FIPG, and the FPR o-ring. He had no other parts in stock. :jack:
So I started in on the '06 Taco....and opened up a newer - bigger set of problems that will keep me busy for now. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Just ordered my stuff through Toyota of Dallas. Jacque was able to order the 08826-00100 seal packing. It also does not come up as regular ol FIPG.

Also note the left/right side on the intake manifold gasket is the same. You basically just need to order two of them.

As far as pricing goes, I definately did save a whole lot by going through them. Thank god for TOD!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Everything just came in. The Seal Packing comes in a green box with green stripes. The instructions that came with it specify it for use with surfaces that come in contact with water in high heat areas...

Just have to find a good weekend to do it.

Also updated my post with the parts with part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
FINALLY, tore into the motor. The lower intake bolts were a little rusty, so I knew the lake was underneath it.

Sure enough, pulled the lower intake manifold and there was my musty, damp lake. The leak was not comming form the intake manifold gaskets since there was no water on the aluminum directly underneath it. I couldn't really find any signs of leaking, I was thinking it would have been a freeze plug.

Ended up pulling the bypass tube (and breaking two harness connectors in the process) and finding where it was comming from. It you look on the pass side of the block, you'll see it's very rusty next to the bolt. It was leaking from the bypass tube, and filling up the cavity. The reason it's more rusty in the back is because I park my truck forward in the driveway. There is a pool in front of the bypass tube housing, and the water would have to get pretty high to fill that up if it were a freeze plug. Closer inspection on the bypass tube further revelaed. Around that pass side bolt was green colored, and all wet.






All in all, it really wasn't bad tearing into the motor, just tedious. I'm going to change all the hoses that lead into the back of the block since I'm in there anyways.

For furture searchers, the replacement harness (no wire, ust the plastic) PN is 90980-11166. I'm usually pterry good about pulling connectors apat, ut after 9 years and 120k miles of heat, the plastic is jsut too brittle. Looking through the wiring repair manual, I learned something new. On every recent Toyota harness, on the back should be 5 digits. The 5 digits are the last 5 numbers in the pn. The first 5 are always 90980. (90980-XXXXX, XXXXX being printed on the back of the harness)
 
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