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I started this thread on the nvttora board but i figured id stick it here where there is more desert guys the truck is a 99 and i've been working on it for over a year but i've got some time on my hands to get it done now.



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Thanks for sharing - looking good.

Do you have any pics of the cage going next to the brake booster? If you don't have the booster can you share what you have done in place.
 

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Thanks for sharing - looking good.

Do you have any pics of the cage going next to the brake booster? If you don't have the booster can you share what you have done in place.
i'll have to take a pic but I can tell you its about a 1/16th of an inch from hitting the resivoir
 

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here ya go



THANKS! Have you thought about ditching the booster for a dual master from Willwood or similar? That damn thing takes up so much room. It has put the cage through the firewall on the bottom of my list...
 

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not sure what im going to do with it yet.

Same here! I would like to completely get rid of it, in exchange for a dual master setup. I talked to Willwood and got some part #s. Basically 1" masters should do the trick.
 

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Same here! I would like to completely get rid of it, in exchange for a dual master setup. I talked to Willwood and got some part #s. Basically 1" masters should do the trick.
On the stock pedal that 1" bore will give you a hard pedal and not a lot of grabbing power at the wheels. I converted my setup to manual using a Wilwood 7/8" tandem-chamber MC and it works pretty well. I had initially gone with a 1 1/8" bore and there was no pedal throw and no stopping the truck.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-9439/10002/-1?parentProductId=760540

I'd already ripped out the ABS stuff so the install was pretty basic. Custom adapter plate to mount the 2-hole MC to the 4-hole firewall, plumb a few new lines, and adapt the brake pedal pushrod to the right length. Works well with the disc brake setup I have in the rear.

Unfortunately I don't have pictures on the computer I'm on but can get some tonight if you're interested. Not the cleanest plumb job but the connections are solid and nothing rubs.
 

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On the stock pedal that 1" bore will give you a hard pedal and not a lot of grabbing power at the wheels. I converted my setup to manual using a Wilwood 7/8" tandem-chamber MC and it works pretty well. I had initially gone with a 1 1/8" bore and there was no pedal throw and no stopping the truck.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-9439/10002/-1?parentProductId=760540

I'd already ripped out the ABS stuff so the install was pretty basic. Custom adapter plate to mount the 2-hole MC to the 4-hole firewall, plumb a few new lines, and adapt the brake pedal pushrod to the right length. Works well with the disc brake setup I have in the rear.

Unfortunately I don't have pictures on the computer I'm on but can get some tonight if you're interested. Not the cleanest plumb job but the connections are solid and nothing rubs.

Bump for me as well. I have been researching a way to ditch the booster, w/out luck. What brakes are you running?
I have a 5-lug but will be using pre-taco 4X4 front calipers and have converted the rear to the monte carlo setup.
 

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Bump for me as well. I have been researching a way to ditch the booster, w/out luck. What brakes are you running?
I have a 5-lug but will be using pre-taco 4X4 front calipers and have converted the rear to the monte carlo setup.
Stock calipers up front and 11 1/2" discs with SSBC calipers in the rear. Removed the ABS sensors and distribution block/ABS module under the hood when I did the manual conversion.

I'll get some pictures this weekend and post 'em up.
 
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