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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
84 toy

Well, it appears I have come into posession of an 85 pickup. I had it at one point in time, but got bored with it and gave it to my uncle. And now he is bored with it so I am getting it back. Frame is solid, runs great (22R with weber carb, 70k miles), and has a solid drivetrain.




The flatbed is getting trashed for another homemade one, and I plan on making my own sliders and bumpers as well. The springs are shot so they need to be replaced. I have been looking at some stuff and it looks like I can make a very capable trail rig for about $2k. I'm going to start with 3" springs, 33" tires, 4.88 gears, and a pair of lunchbox lockers.

Any input would be appreciated. I am trying to keep this on a budget since I don't ever seem to get time off to go out wheeling with you guys. So on that note, if anyone has some used 33's I am in the market for some cheepies right now.
 

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if this is a dedicated trail rig, and the only road use is to get to the trails, I would suggest 5.29:1 gear ratio... very nice for rock crawling ;)
(what I had in my runner)

if you want ~2" additional lift, for ~$15 / axle, purchase the lift shackles from advanced auto... I also purchased some long travel rancho 5000 series for ~$40 extra / axle...

gave mad flex for my runner's rear end, a little lift, and all for ~$55

are the springs you are using presently worn out? if they are ok, you will be fine running 33" tires with this shackle lift alone...

is the steering linkage above the springs? if it is not, this may be a good mod prior to lifting more than 3" imo...

suggestion on tires... 34" LTB's... very nice off road, and cheaper than most 33" tires...
(and bias ply w/ good protection )

if you have any technical questions, Mark, Scott, Pete, Marshall, (and several other PA members) have tons of experience with this stuff ;o)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info Poser. The springs are shot, bad negative arch and i think one is broken. This was a dedicated firewood truck fro a while so it saw some VERY heavy loads. The reason I wanted to stay with just a 3" lift was because I don't want to get into all the other issues you run into with the higher lifts, such as the "death wobble" and such. I figure if I stayed at 3" I should be good. I'll look into the shackles and shocks, maybe I will just get some stock height springs and run the shackles. And as for the gears, I choose the 4.88 cause I read they were best for 33's. The gears won't be purchased until I get around to getting tires. I'm just going to start with the lift and some armor for now. And as for the steering, I looked at it, but I don't remember how it was. I was looking at the high steer kits, but I could find any goo instructions. The ones I did find require that you get an IFS steering box, and I don't know if I feel like dealing with all that just yet.
 

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ya, the steering can get involved if you have to change out other equipment ...

4.88:1's probably are the best overall for 33" tires...
the main reason I went with 5:29:1 was for rock crawling

take lots of pic ;o)

[off topic]
btw, have you had your bike out yet? I've been lazy thus far this year, but I'm going to prep mine this weekend :woot: [/offtopic]
 

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3" won't clear 33's...........mine is on 4" and my 33's rub like crazy on compresseion.

get 5.29's and never look back......I got 4.88's and I kick myself in the ass for it daily.
 

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Bob the bed. It will greatly increase your approach/dearture angle. If you don't really care too much about the body, you can always trim the fenders to allow for bigger tires. Personally, I like smaller lifts and bigger tires for trails and stuff. It keeps your center of gravity lower. That's a nice rig though. Should be a lot of fun.
 

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Full_Tilt_Fud said:
3" won't clear 33's...........mine is on 4" and my 33's rub like crazy on compresseion..
I only ran the shackle lift stated above which = maybe 2" of lift, and didn't have any problem at all running 33"x10.5" on the stock rims...

this ofcourse was ifs, so if you are referring to the front rubbing on a solid axle then thats cool...

troy spoke of someone he knew running 35"x10.5" without a lift, this guy did rub like crazy... (don't know the year)

edit: what width tires are you using, and where does it rub, the frame or the body? (both may be caused by tire width and rim back spacing...)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
SuperPoser said:
[off topic]
btw, have you had your bike out yet? I've been lazy thus far this year, but I'm going to prep mine this weekend :woot: [/offtopic]
Not yet. I got all my maintenace done about 2 weeks ago, so she is ready to go. My buddy mentioned something abot going out tomorrow, but I think the weather is going to kill that idea. If you are interested, my brother and I are going back down to Hatfield McCoys on May 17-20.


Full_Tilt_Fud said:
3" won't clear 33's...........mine is on 4" and my 33's rub like crazy on compresseion.

get 5.29's and never look back......I got 4.88's and I kick myself in the ass for it daily.
I guess I'll find out once I get the lift on. If need be, I'll just take the fenders off and make some tube fenders to fill the void. My original plan was to buy the cheapass 3" Rough Country lift and start from there. But after hearing about the shackles and having to get even longer shocks than the ones that come with the lift, I may just get the leaf springs seperate and do the shackles with the cheap Ranchos. This stuff is a little new to me, so I need to do alot more research before I go out and buy stuff.


Trigger5150 said:
Bob the bed. It will greatly increase your approach/dearture angle.
One step ahead of ya, I am going to trim the frame to the spring hangers once we scrap the rotted out flatbed.
 

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the biggest thing is to get some springs that move the front axle forward.........mine rub back by the firewall......not the fender........it would not do it if I had springs that kicked the axle forward like the ones from marlin or all pro do.


as far as shocks get some after market hoops to replace your mfactory upper mounts.......otherwise you will rip them right off which is not fun LOL........measure and get some cheap shocks.........I got rancho's and they work good........i can give you the part number I used if you want it.
 

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RedRunnertc said:
sweet! thanks troy ;o)


btw, I was cleaning my garage today ( :woot: for spring cleaning finally)

I still have the shackle's I purchased for my sami...

I put a pair on, but took them back off due to steering problems with the soa lift and not having hi-steer....;

they are just taking up space, you can have them for... $20?

btw, if I'm in town, I'de like to join you for a day or two in may ;o)

later
mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SuperPoser said:
sweet! thanks troy ;o)
I still have the shackle's I purchased for my sami...
they are just taking up space, you can have them for... $20?
Cool, I'll have to look into it.

SuperPoser said:
btw, if I'm in town, I'de like to join you for a day or two in may ;o)
The more the merrier. There was supposed to be a couple guys from work going, but I think they are backing out again, so it will most likely just be me and my brother.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, I have some questions about lockers/gears. I'll do some searching tomorrow when I have time, but I just wanted to throw this out there. I was planning on getting two lunchbox type lockers and gears. How complicated is it to set the backlash and stuff? Am I further ahead to take the thirds somewhere to get it done? My uncle told me that I should just spend the extra money and buy complete thirds. Any input on this? Also, I called the local 4x4 shop here in Toledo to get prices on gears/lockers/labor and they told me that it wasn't a good idea to run a lunchbox type locker in the rear because it will easily fail back there. Is there truth to this, or are they just trying to get more money from me?
 

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I think they're trying to get more money from you... BUT the biggest savings with lunchbox lockers is that you can install them without having to totally set up the gears. If you're doing gears anyways, I would go with a full carrier locker like a Detroit. If the truck is rarely going to be on pavement (especially in the winter) you could save some $ by doing a spool.

When I was researching for Molly's truck (thought it was R&P, but it was Birfs that were broke) you could pretty much get new thirds for the cost of the parts and install. TrailGear and Randy's seemed to have really good prices on setup thirds. The nice thing about buying thirds would be you can EASILY install them yourself and you could sell your old ones to recoup any extra it cost.
 

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My buddy and I set my gears in his garage........It was not hard........They have held up to some pretty good beatings :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK, so I will go with a lunchbox type in the front for sure. In the back, won't a spool put alot more stress on the axles. The truck will more than likely only see street use when it is being driven to the trails. But the closest trail is wellsville right now (1 hour away) and since that will be closing I will have to drive further in the future. Would it be bad to put a lunchbox in the rear? Or should I just get a full carrier locker instead? Is anyone else out there running a luchbox locker in the rear?
 
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