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Discussion Starter #22
It's looking good bro.
I like the black with green hi-lites for paint job.

Keep up the good work.
Thanks bro iv been reading your build thread and iv been getting some ideas i kinda want to incorporate the blade 4runner graphics in on the green paint scheme,
 

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Green YUK bad color
 

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Discussion Starter #24
oh its going GREEN!!! and only GREEN
 

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Discussion Starter #25
been playing with photoshop with the blade graphics

 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Few more pics of the engine components


Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

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no its grey but i plan on painting the engine bay and i will be triming it in with black and green....
Should be pretty easy to do, being that the engine is always out of it :flipoff4:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Should be pretty easy to do, being that the engine is always out of it :flipoff4:
yea yea lol


anyway sent the block off to machinist today and got my header all cleaned up and painted now just to wait on the block and im golden

 

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Discussion Starter #29
heard form my machinist yesterday and old pistons will not work any more due to cylinders not being round any more so im moving on up to .040 oversized pistons (im so bummed haha)

 

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Discussion Starter #30
UPDATE...

Engine is FINALLY 90% assembled going to drop it in the truck tomorrow and hope to have it running tomorrow night, i got delayed today due to needing a harmonic balancer repair sleeve and decided to go ahead and replace the freeze plugs while it was out and easily accessible

 

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Discussion Starter #31
Update......the truck is finally running...

only two problems first is the more major of the two apparently when i had the connecting rods re-sized the machine shop did not replace the wrist pin bushings and i am getting a nasty clattering noise out of the engine on deceleration, after readjusting and readjusting and readjusting my rockers thinking it was the problem, i spent an hour on you tube and found the answer to my dilemma.....

Second is i keep getting a check engine light that pops up, turns out its the knock sensor circuit, iv traced the wire back to the ECU and found no breaks, also tried replacing the sensor with one that i know works (came off of another truck with no codes being thrown) but still getting a code and its killing my fuel mileage (only getting 13MPG)
 

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I don't know how you can hear anything clattering over that fartcan you have welded to your tailpipe. Going to hit the highway here in a few. Think I can make it to Mexico before dark?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Once you hit sixty five and hold it there you will hear it

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my truck does something similar, when I go highway speeds mainly around 70 and let go of the gas it makes a really loud and annoying clattering noise and if I just rest my foot on the gas pedal it will become louder.
never took the time to find the problem tho.
 

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If the wrist pins are indeed bad and causing a knock and your knock sensor may be picking up that knock, thinking its a timing knock (not knowing the difference between a timing ping and a mechanical wrist pin knock) and therefore retarding your ignition timing via the computer. This would cause the bad fuel economy and you would also probably feel a loss of power. The other thing I would check for the knocking noise is the timing chain and make sure it is not hitting the cover... The reason I say this is because typically if there is wrist pin issues it will knock all the time not just on deceleration. Just trying to give you some ideas on what to look at next.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If the wrist pins are indeed bad and causing a knock and your knock sensor may be picking up that knock, thinking its a timing knock (not knowing the difference between a timing ping and a mechanical wrist pin knock) and therefore retarding your ignition timing via the computer. This would cause the bad fuel economy and you would also probably feel a loss of power. The other thing I would check for the knocking noise is the timing chain and make sure it is not hitting the cover... The reason I say this is because typically if there is wrist pin issues it will knock all the time not just on deceleration. Just trying to give you some ideas on what to look at next.
Thats exactly what i was thinking considering the check engine light only comes on after the RPMS are above 2500,it does have a quiet tapping sound that comes from the middle of the engine at idle but goes quiet at low rpms then get louder with higher rpms, if i shift softly the light stays off and i keep all my power,also its not the timing chain this motor was just rebuilt and i went with the steel guide instead of the crappy cheap plastic guide.....i ordered the bushings yesterday along with ANOTHER new head gasket, oil pan gasket and head bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #37
UPDATE: replaced the connecting rods with new ones also found that the reason for the check engine light was i had the wrong knock sensor. There were two used in these year models one for 85 to 87 and another for 88 to 90, i had the one for the 85 to 87 with no dimple in the end.....needed the one for 88 to 89 with the little dimple in the end.The truck is running great now but it sits due to me having my new toy 3rd gen 4runner
 
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