If you go with either the Fabtech or TrailMaster 6" lift, you won't have to switch to manual hubs. And as was mentioned already, you could also do a 3" body lift with your current Fabtech coilovers, which obviously wouldn't require you switching your hubs either.Passhawk said:I have a 3.5 fabtech lift now. And basicaly what it all comes down to is if I want to go higher then that, say 6 inch. Then I have to switch to manual hubs, to save the cb joints. Correct? Or is there a way to keep the automatice 4wd button and get a 6 inch lift?
With ADD, the CV's are turning whenever the truck is rolling, which means the CV boots are turning, and things are wearing out. When people lift the front, that increases the rate of wear. With manual hubs, when they're not locked, the CV's aren't turning all the time, so they don't wear as much/quickly. The primary wear issue is with the CV boots, rather than the CV's themselves, and is accelerated even more with lifts above about 2.5".Passhawk said:
You're confusing drop bracket lifts with suspension lifts. Drop bracket lifts maintain "stock" suspension geometry (they lower your front diff in relation to the frame), while suspension lifts alter suspension geometry (by pushing your a-arms down and stressing CV's).Passhawk said:
No, the only one of those things that will increase the stress on your CV's is the lift you already have... Your suspension has nothing to do with the body, and drop bracket lifts maintain your current suspension geometry (i.e. CV angles).Passhawk said:
