TTORA Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,222 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,
I'm not too worried about the wiring and what not, my question is.... How hard is it to take out the manual crank system and put in the electric crank system. From the install write-up on their site, it seems like its not too bad. I just wanted to know from some1 who's done it. Thanx, Wes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi all, long time lurker, first post. Great forum you guys have here, I've found a lot of helpful info.

RE: A1 windows, its a good product but takes a while to install. Its one of those things that takes a long time to do, but if you were to ever do it a second time you could do it a lot faster. My guess is that anyone could do it in 2-6 hours. If I were to do it again, I bet I could do it in less than 2 hours, but it took me at least 3 or 4 to do the first time.


Here is a copy of a write-up I did on this, hope it helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

************************************************

The install breaks down into 3 parts; actuators, wires, and switches. I believe this is the best order to do it.

I. ACTUATORS

Remove door panels and front speakers. [A manual window crank tool ($3 or less at an auto supply store) makes removing the window cranks and door panel much faster.]

With the window down, take the 3 bolts out of the manual window actuator and 2 more out of the window holding bracket, raise the window and hold it up with 4 little suction cups and a couple pieces of string to hold the window up and out of the way. I think there is a picture of this included with the kit or on-line somewhere. (If not picture the kind of suction cups you see on window decorations in people's houses.) Remove the actuator. Install the power actuator to the door according to the direction sheet, (I used a marker to mark the holes on the door) it has 4 bolts. Lower window and re-attach it to the other end of the new actuator. (Caution, you may need to reuse some screws so don’t lose them)

II. WIRES

-I would wire the power right to the battery, going thru the boot on the drivers side firewall. This powers your windows all the time and won’t drain your battery. (Dont forget to put that fuse in-line just after the battery) I originally tried to use my radio's power wire but the windows draw too much current and will blow the radio fuse. (Going right to the battery also saves you from removing any part of the dash)

-Use a "zip tie" wire tie to fish your wires through the door's rubber boot, pop the boot off both the door and the truck first. This was a major problem for me, took me over an hour to figure it out. Then with the zip tie it took me about 15 seconds to do the second door! Note: don't attach any plastic connectors to wires until they are routed through the doors.

-Wire it so all the excess can be hidden behind the driver’s side kick panel except as noted below. Zip-tie or tape the excess so it stays hidden under the dash. Use a coat-hanger to get from driver’s to passenger’s side behind the radio if necessary. Go under the steering column to avoid chafing which might damage your wires over time.

-Make sure you run the wire in such a way that it doesn't interfere with the window or actuator/crank, secure it so it won’t move. Give yourself 6-8 inches of wire to allow play so you can take the door panel on and off easily in the future, and still be able to EASILY clip/unclip the pin connectors for the window switches. The extra 6-8 inches should be placed between the plastic film and the door panel to keep it away from moving parts).

-attach the connectors/switches and power it up. Test that nothing interferes with the actuators and everything is working properly before you put the door panels back on. Have a couple of extra fuses ready, be careful that the solder on the back of the switches doesn't come into contact with any metal. It blows fuses

III. SWITCHES

-The switches are a bit of a pain. I used the "joker" style ones. You will need a marker, a good utility knife, and a pair of scissors to shape the hole properly. (The "joker" switches covered the manual window crank holes perfectly.)

-Disconnect the switches and mark and fit the switch mounts to the proper spot over the window crank holes. Trim away some of the cardboard panel with a utility knife or “keyhole type” hacksaw, not sure if this is the proper name. It’s a basically a hack blade and a little holder. Screw the switch mounts to the door panel and snap the switches into place. Now re-connect the switch to the wiring, re attach the door panel and enjoy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,222 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
SurfTaco said:
Hi all, long time lurker, first post. Great forum you guys have here, I've found a lot of helpful info.

RE: A1 windows, its a good product but takes a while to install. Its one of those things that takes a long time to do, but if you were to ever do it a second time you could do it a lot faster. My guess is that anyone could do it in 2-6 hours. If I were to do it again, I bet I could do it in less than 2 hours, but it took me at least 3 or 4 to do the first time.


Here is a copy of a write-up I did on this, hope it helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

damn that was pretty informative, I'm gonna print that out. Thanx man! Peace, Wes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Hello all,
after install I have had trouble with the door panels unsnapping at the bottom where the derivers side kick pannell is.
Any suggestions or has anyone had this problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
My door panels are doing that too, but on the other end, near the back of the cab... and after bestbuy installed my new speakers (last time I do that)... I'm pretty sure its just a matter of a couple new clips, just haven't gotten to the dealer to track them down yet. I just give it a tap every now and then, pops back in for another few weeks, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
i installed those and i LOVE THEM!!! the only problem i had was that i put them in backwards and the window kept falling off the track. swapped them and they've been good for 2 years now. here's a tip...hook the power to a constant power source, that way you can put them up or down without the truck being on.

mark
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top