My swap has been finished for about a year now. I would like to thank Tacoma4life, Saftydang, Mosk22ret, and anyone else who helped me in my swap.
A few key points I would like to point out-
- Make sure to be very careful whel laying out the clutch master cyl holes in the fire wall. Fire wall template- Mosk22ret
-Use GL-4 gear oil in your transmission, I used Amsoil GL-5 and shifts are kinda notchy and not very smooth.
-If your truck has the 3.4L V6, your transmission crossmember is in the correct place, however if you have the 2.7L 4cyl your crossmemeber is too far back, and will need to be modified.
(Top is the modified crossmember, bottom is the stock one.)
Parts: I bought/used
- W59 and broke transfercase- $650 (halland salvage)
- Front half of rear shaft- Free w/ trans
- Brake pedal- Free w/ trans
- Clutch pedal and bracket- Free w/ trans
- New Clutch master cyl- $55 (autozone)
- Clutch hydro line (hard)- $8 (autozone)
- AISIN Slave cyl- $23 (ebay)
- Shifter boot- Free w/ trans
- Fly wheel- Free w/ trans
- Spare crossmemver- Free w/ trans
- (3) 460ohm resistors (1) 2.2Kohm resistor and a project box w/ ciurcit board - $7.50 (radio shack)
- Reverse light plug from harness (toyota) $16
- rubber clutch line -$20 (toyota)
- Clutch -$133 (Ebay)
- Shifter console -$10 (NC4x4 member)
- NSK release bearing - $52 (toyota)
- Rubber clutch line clips - $1.20 (toyota)
- ECU - $118 (local junk yard via Car-part.com)
- AMSOil for the Engine, trans and t-case plus filter- $111 (Toyota)
- Toyota Trans mount- $75 (Toyota)
- Front Drive shaft- $50 (halland salvage)
Car-part.com was used to track down parts I could not find local.
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As follows in this thread, I had toyed with the idea of using resisters to fool the Auto ECU into thinking that there was a automatic transmission inplace and functioning normally. However after finding a used ECU with the correct part number that was a plug and play, I opted for that in stead. I certian that the resisters would have worked.
Get a brake pedal from a 1999, then that should be all you need, no bracket, booster, master cylinder, etc.
I don't think I have actually seen anyone swap ECU's without swapping entire wiring harnesses. You will have to report back on weather that actually works. But don't worry, swapping entire engine and dash harnesses is actually quite easy once you locate the harnesses. It's just pulling the dash out, then unplug, plug, unplug, plug, and on and on for awhile.
a wile back i read over a thread saying you could put resistors in place to trick the computer but i cant find the thread.
i might be dead wrong, but it seams to me that the manual and auto harnesses should not be too much different, sept for the Auto ECU using more wires than the Manual ECU simply because it controls the trans. i know that the 95.5-97 taco's use a less standardized harness, but i have read that from 98 to 2004 the had a more standard harness. people put 3.4L in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen toyota's and there is waaay more harness mods to be made than a trans....... thats how i have to look at it anyway
and if i can rap my head around how the shift soleniods work and talk to the ECU, i can figure out a way to by pass it, man made it, man can alter it.
IF anyone can help me make this thing as close to factory as it can be i would very greatful, I plan on do a full scale write-up.
Ok everybody, i believe i am ready to start posting up all my finding and plans to start my swap. I will not settle for anything less than perfection. perfection in this case is a full functional 5speed in place of my automatic, NO CELs, and all of my factoty options still working.
My plans as of now,
- Us the Auto ECU and Harness with a 5speed
.
- To trick the Auto ECU into thinking the shift solenoids are there and working i will use Resistors.
- I will also use a resistor in place of the A/T oil temp sensor.
- I will run the Neutral switch to the Clutch depression switch. (It will also start in "Neutral" [clutch pedal pressed]) The reason i will not tie the wires together for Neutral together for ever is because the ECU will throw a code if it sees N all the time.
- i will run the wire from the D (drive) wire (from gear selector) to the clutch Extention switch. that way anytime the clutch is NOT pushed the ECU with think it is in DRIVE
- As of right now i do not think i will use the clutch start/cancel button, the reason is: when the button is used it will STAY ON untill the truck is turned off. therefore the ECU would see a Neutral and drive signals at the same time, possably tripping a code.
- Cruse control runs threw the D on the gear selector for an auto, having the Drive wire run to the clutch Extention switch will allow full use of Cruise control, how ever when the clutch OR brake is pressed it will disengage.
-As for the O/D off button and the ECT button associated with the operation of the Auto, removing them will NOT effect the ECU, as these switchs are open in normal operation, and only by pressing them will they change the shifting of the trans.
Other things that you need,
ALL the manual transmission clutch stuff. clutch MC, pedal, lines, flywheel,clutch plates, and all hard ware. you will also need the center consol and shifter boot.
that is all i have for the moment. i am sure there is somthing i have missed. i will update this as i go.
Ok everybody, i believe i am ready to start posting up all my finding and plans to start my swap. I will not settle for anything less than perfection. perfection in this case is a full functional 5speed in place of my automatic, NO CELs, and all of my factoty options still working.
My plans as of now,
- Us the Auto ECU and Harness with a 5speed
.
- To trick the Auto ECU into thinking the shift solenoids are there and working i will use Resistors.
- I will also use a resistor in place of the A/T oil temp sensor.
- I will run the Neutral switch to the Clutch extension switch. (It will also start in "Neutral" [clutch pedal pressed]) The reason i will not tie the wires together for Neutral together for ever is because the ECU will throw a code if it sees N all the time.
- i will run the wire from the D (drive) wire (from gear selector) to the clutch depression switch. that way anytime the clutch is NOT pushed the ECU with think it is in DRIVE
- As of right now i do not think i will use the clutch start/cancel button, the reason is: when the button is used it will STAY ON untill the truck is turned off. therefore the ECU would see a Neutral and drive signals at the same time, also sending a constent N signal.
- Cruse control runs threw the D on the gear selector for an auto, having the Drive wire run to the clutch depression switch will allow full use of Cruise control, how ever when the clutch OR brake is pressed it will disengage it.
-As for the O/D off button and the ECT button associated with the operation of the Auto, removing them will NOT effect the ECU, as these switchs are open in normal operation, and only by pressing them will they change the shifting of the trans.
Other things that you need,
ALL the manual transmission clutch stuff. clutch MC, pegal, line, flywheel,clutch plates, and all hard ware. you will also need the center consol and shifter boot.
that is all i have for the moment. i am sure there is somthing i have missed. i will update this as i go.
I don't know if TacomaJD has progress on his plan to swap from 5 SPEED TO AUTO but if he is still thinking of swapping you guy should get together if the parts are compatible. Read the thread here. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156661
Perfect, except you have the extension and depression switches backwards.
I'm still curious about the resistors working. A resistor will allow a set current to pass. Don't you think that using resistors to trick the computer into thinking the shift solonoids are there will also trick it into believing it's in one gear all the time? And this fixed amount may itself throw a CEL because it thinks it's 'stuck' in this one gear. Sort of like when the ECU trips a CEL because it's always in neutral.
Perfect, except you have the extension and depression switches backwards.
I'm still curious about the resistors working. A resistor will allow a set current to pass. Don't you think that using resistors to trick the computer into thinking the shift solonoids are there will also trick it into believing it's in one gear all the time? And this fixed amount may itself throw a CEL because it thinks it's 'stuck' in this one gear. Sort of like when the ECU trips a CEL because it's always in neutral.
yea, i was wondering about that today. Looking at the Diagram it shows 3 wires coming from the ECU, they go to 3 soleniods, then ALL 3 solennoids are grounded together NOT returning to the ECU. so it seams to me that the ECU is not checking the power that returns. it is only looking to make sure power is going.
i dont think the ECU powers all the wires at once, IF it did then it would be in 3 gears at once. I think is looks at the shift detent cable (passing gear cable) to see witch soleniod needs to be energized. the only time i see the computer having a problem is if i was holding it to the rev limiter and the computer trying to up shift. (I beleive that the A/T computer is designed to upshift if behing held in gear too low for Engine speed. Example, you have your gear solector in Low, not the t-case but the trans, and you take off and you forget to bump it up to 2 or Drive, it SHOULD do a forced upshift to protect the engine) although i have done it before and run it a line or two into the red and it never shifted or the limiter cut the engine out.
maybe i am wrong... but i think.. i hope that this works out right
I don't know if TacomaJD has progress on his plan to swap from 5 SPEED TO AUTO but if he is still thinking of swapping you guy should get together if the parts are compatible. Read the thread here. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156661
well right now i am hanging on to my Auto untill i am 100% sure that this swap is going to go perfect. this swap will be considered a failure if i get a CEL, and if i cant fix the CEL the Auto will be going back in, NC WILL NOT pass ANYTHING with a CEL on.
Ok i "broke ground" to day on this project, i went by radio shack and picked up 2 packs of resistors(both come in packs of 5). one pack was 460 ohm 1/2 watt, and the other was 2.2k ohm 1/4 watt. these where as close as i could get to the ones in the other thread. i also bought a "project contianer" and a small circuit bord to mount everything on... total cost..... $7.50
well boys, took a little road trip today. went about 1 hr and a half to a toyota salvage yard. picked up my new (to me) w59 & its t-case, both the brake and clutch pedal assemble, flywheel, shift boot, crossmember, clutch cancel button, and front half of the rear drive shaft. payed $650. i hope to order the clutch stuff in a week or 2.
Nice... But agian, you don't need the cross member, just the W59 transmission mount that attaches to the cross member. It may even be the same as the R151 mount, but I can't confirm that.
Nice... But agian, you don't need the cross member, just the W59 transmission mount that attaches to the cross member. It may even be the same as the R151 mount, but I can't confirm that.
My W59. it has somewhere around 100k on it. its nice and dirty, the 2.7 that was turning it had i nice sized oil leak.
Front half of the rear driveshaft, (side with carrier) the carrier is missing, and the u-joint has a tight spot in it. but its what i have to have, its 3"s longer than the auto version
and here is the T-case. (from the manual) the Input from the bolted on seal peace in 2 5/8"s long. the T-case it self has me confused, the shifter works perfect, when in 2wd the rear out put turns the same, when in 4H its get a little harder to turn (like theres more weight) but the front output doesnt spine, samething in 4L no front out put movement... i took the fill plug out and can see the chain, it looks good, you can turn the front output and the chain turns and moves like it should. not really sure what the deal is, if anyone has seen this before fill me in.
My pile-o-parts shifter boot, painted driveshaft and clutch pedal assembly, and clutch master, clutch lines and flywheel
brand new OEM AISIN slave cyl.
brand new from toyota reverse light plug w/ wires
Clutch parts
Shifter console- im alittle worried about the color.. its looks more gray than tan but maybe its just a bad cell pic
The brake pedal mounts are the same from the Auto to manual trucks, the ONLY differents is the pedal it self. the Auto has the BIG pad, and the manual has the SMALL one. The only thing i had to do was switch the actual pedal. i reused my much cleaner (NO rust) bracket, and the pedal lever from the manual.
Things i still need
Cutch disc, pressure plate, throw out & piolet bearings, Clutch master, slave cyl, Hydrolic line, and Trans mount
I also need the center console. i need a TAN one, if you have one you want to sell PM me.
Tacoma4life has used products from "gripforce" on EBAY, they sell OEM style clutch kits, i will be trying them too, if anyone has used products from them before PLEASE feel free to give feed back in this thread
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