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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In reading a lot of the electrical posts, I'm planning on going the "additional breaker box" route. I was hoping some folks could take a look at what I plan on doing, and let me know if:
a) it will work,
b) it would be better if you used ______ instead, or
c) you're going to burn your truck to the rims, don't go near the battery, you're an electrical idiot.

Battery
Die Hard (it's what's already in the truck)

Battery-to-Fuse Box Cable
Three lengths of marine-grade or similar electrical wire, one from batt + to circuit breaker, one from circuit breaker to fuse box +, and one from batt - to fuse box -

Circuit Breaker
Blue Sea P/N 7102 - 185-Series Thermal Circuit Breaker Surface Mount. Will be mounted between the batt and the fuse box. Rated at 100A (max overall rating of the fuse box)

Fuse Box
Blue Sea PN 5026 - ST*Blade Fuse Block With Cover - 12 Circuit with Negative Bus

What I'm going for is something similar to J.T.054x4Taco's (Josh's) set-up here, but am not adding any relays at this time.

If anyone has any input, I'd really appreciate it. The only things I plan on running in it right now are the VHF and UHF radios and strobe lights that I already have wired in (just going to relocate the in-line fuses into the fuse block to tidy it up a bit).

Thanks!

-Radar
 

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You need some way to separate the two batteries when the truck is off. Let's say your first battery is lower than the second one. You go to start and that starter is going to pull a lot of juice (probably more than 100 amps) and pop that breaker. Get either an isolator or a dual battery relay (available at an RV supply store) and have the relay triggered manually or automatically. As far as auto goes, there are two routes. One is to have it triggered by an ignition "ON" source that shuts off when the truck is started (ex. wiper blade circuit. It only runs when the truck is ON and they stop when you start the truck) or a trigger wire from the alternator. Check out my write up, I explain the alternator wire method.
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40662

Got any pics of the radios and strobes? What are they for?
 

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I would consider a place for relays, maybe. It's a good practice. Look to 12V guy or Painless wiring for a way to work with your dual battery setup.

Good luck.
 

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I may be blind, but I honestly dont see any discussion from WRADAR about using a SECOND battery...?
 

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I may be blind, but I honestly dont see any discussion from WRADAR about using a SECOND battery...?
Ahah! Yeah when he said:
"battery to circuit breaker to fuse box and battery to fuse box" I didn't realize he was running a ground all the way to the fuse box (seems like a long way to run a ground when you can run it straight to the frame). Guess I should pay attention to the + & - Duhh!! :buttkick:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I figured I'd get the negative block so I'd have a "guaranteed" good place to ground, if needed.

Where is a good place to get the positive and negative cables made? I'm sure they're easy to make on your own, but I don't own a torch or any hard-core soldering equpment to put the ends on the cables. I presume Napa or any such place would be a good shot? Thanks!
 

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the factory service manual identifies all legitimate grounding points. search for the manual...i know it's out there somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've got a copy of that (e-version), I'll look it up. (Hadn't even thought to check in there!) Thanks!

-Radar
 

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Joshes set up is like mine.. or mine like his, I jsut got mine done.
As for second battery, I dont have one yet, but will prob go w/ 12volt guy for the kit... just easyer.
I curently am looking for a good distribution block for my 2 4g wires (1 to amp, 1 to the new aux. fuse box)
I have my box mounted on the rear firewall. so far so good. Looks clean, need to loomb the wires yet, but the local stealership forman liked the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here are some radio pics:

From the top down: Sony CD/stereo unit, scanner, Kenwood dual-band control head. (The switch for the strobes is the one behind the Kenwood.)


VHF and UHF radios mounted under driver's seat:


Radio speaker and strobe power supply mounted under passenger's seat:


I used to do volunteer fire when I was stationed in Florida. Now I just use the excuse that I have an amateur radio license to keep the stuff in the truck, but I really don't use it much out here in HI. The strobes: I just wanted to install some in my truck because a) I like strobes, b) they're handy if I ever need 'em (roadside, wrecks, etc), and c) I wanted to learn more about electrical installation by doing it myself. :D
 

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nice set up wradar! HAM license is one of my nexts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
OK, I finally finished this up. Here are some pics:

Here's where it's going to go


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Again, where it will go


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Here's the plate installed with the breaker and fuse box mounted. I had to use self-tapping (metal) screws to mount it to the body, as there weren't any pre-existing holes, and there was no way I could seem to get my hand behind that area of the body to put a bolt/nut.


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As you can see, there's good clearance underneath, but not so much as to make sticking your hand under there easy. If this were the manual transmission Tacoma, this would be blocking the clutch fluid reservoir.


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All wired up


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In the bottom-right, you can see that I mounted the negative cable to the same place as the little negative cable from the battery. You can also see a piece of electrical tape on the corner. This is so the mounting plate doesn't bounce around and hit the ... um ... big black thingy behind the brake fluid reservoir? :confused: (Yes, I should know what that is, but I don't.) I also put electrical tape on the edge of the plate in that corner, to keep it from scuffing up the afore-mentioned black thingy.


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I took an 18" battery cable from Checkers, cut it in half, then used crimp-on terminal ends. Because there was so much "extra" terminal end exposed, and to make a better seal, I wrapped some of the ends in electrical tape


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The finished product (minus my poorly-written labeling stickers, which go on the clear cover)


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So far, so good! The nice thing about this breaker is you can just "press-to-test" it and kill everything on that circuit. When this would come in handy is sort of beyond me, but it might. :)

-Radar
 

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I see alot of people on here going to this location for their aux. fuse block. My concern with this location is with water getting to it. Are my concerns legit? Anyone have any ideas? Maybe some type of weatherproof box in that location. I've searched and have not found such a box. Mounting the aux. fuse block inside would solve the weatherproof problem but all the wiring would have to be brought in also, not ideal. Sorry to hijack, just wondering about alternatives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Definitely something to consider. While I can't guarantee for sure that water won't get into this area, the in-line circuit breaker (which, itself, is waterproof) should prevent any serious water-caused shorting. Granted, that's a "fix" and not really avoiding the problem, but I suppose it'll do for now.

That, and I'll try to keep my truck out of any lakes or reservoirs. :D

-Radar
 

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I agree you most likely won't have a problem if you avoid deep water. But I want to be sure I won't have a problem. I guess I'll keep searching before I install. Already have the fuse block for awhile now, just haven't decided where I want to put it. Wrader is that a Coast Guard Dolphin in your sig?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wrader is that a Coast Guard Dolphin in your sig?
Yup. That's my other ride. They don't let me go near it with a wrench, though. I've learned a simple equation that I'm pretty sure they teach all of the mechs during their A-school:

Pilots + tools = bad news.

There's also a "motivational" poster in the helo shop at work that says something like "Aviation Maintenance: Using a high school diploma to fix what a college degree f**ked up"

-Radar
 
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