TTORA Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
...now new concern...help please.

I did a bunch of different searches, but none came up with anything that helped me out.

I just bought some aftermarket CV's from advanced auto parts and have noticed looking at them that it seems the boots are on the opposite ends than they normally are (as far as I have noticed).

I thought that the higher number of fins is generally on the outer joints, but on these it is the opposite.

I've added a pic to show what I am talking about.

From anyone's experience, is this going to make a difference? I'd rather bring 'em back now than make 'em mine by farting around under the truck with em...

thanks all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, thanks DF. Am I right in noticing that it is usually the other way around?

They have the warranty, but I am running about 2.5 and I am wanting to avoid having to yank 'em a whole lot, although that would make me pretty damned good at it, hehe.

I better go see if I have a 35mm socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,467 Posts
I'm running aftermarket ones from O'reilly and they look similar to yours. The boots have been fine and I don't expect to have any problems with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interex, thanks man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
now the thing is binding....

alright, so I put the thing on. Everything was going just fine and I was feeling pretty good about getting the job done. When I went to give the rotor a spin, it only moved about a third of the way in either direction and just locked up. So I sat and scratched my head. WTF. I went around to the other side, which still has the old grease spattered axle on it, and gave the tire a spin. Not a hitch. Spun just fine. So then I thought to put the jack under the lower arm and see if there was a binding problem....and that seems to be what it is. At full droop the new cv is locking up.

As a recap, I had about a month and a half ago, I had (so I thought) broken both axles by having the wheels turned when transitioning over an icy patch to a dry patch at the base of my driveway. Grease blasted out of both inners. I thought for sure they were broken. Turns out they weren't but I learned that I should NEVER EVER do that and after searching more learned that driving in a straight line in 4 wheel isn't even healthy for the tranny and transfer case. But I digress...

So I decided that it was still a good idea to replace them both since they barfed their insides out like that. Thing is, they still worked and they didn't bind in the position that the new one is. ( I am not about to put the other new in until I get to the bottom of this).

I have the Donahoe billet spacer in right now. It is supposed to yeild 2.5 of lift. I have been told that spacers are pretty bad for everything, but at the same time, people are telling me that this one is different somehow. I don't understand how, but I am open to trying to understand. I am sure as shit hoping that this one isn't viewed as different simply because it says Donahoe, and it is stealth black...

The main issue here though is that the BRAND NEW axle that I just put in is actually more problematic than the 128k OEM ones that blew out their insides. I know that on the ground it will roll fine, but what happens with going offroad or just simply hitting bumps in the road or even turning the steering wheel to full lock? I figure that I am going to get some sort of binding in all situations.

Should I put the old one back in for now? This is definitely a learning experience.

Anyway, thanks for the help in advance. I really need to get to the bottom of what is going on...this is my DD/work truck too.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top