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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering what length air bumps people are running on their LT kits.
I just installed a Camburg kit on mine and can not for the life of me find any information about which length bump i should run. fox makes a 2.5, 3, and 4 inch bump in 2" diameter. the only difference is the 3 and 4 inch air bumps are 2" longer collapsed than the 2.5". (2001 4wd with stock tundra axles)

So which ones do you guys suggest or use?

-Thanks
 

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most guys run the 4" bumpstop but shorten it down to 2". i'm also running the camburg kit on my tacoma with radflo 2.0x4" bumpstops shortened down to 2" travel
 

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you can find used 4" ones pretty easily online for dirt cheap. as for me i'm planning on upgrading my regular camburg kit over to the race kit once i finish the rear end and i would be taking the 2" spacers out and have them at a full 4"
 

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My advice would be to spend the money on bypass shocks instead of bumps. The bypass will stop the truck and you will be much happier with the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My advice would be to spend the money on bypass shocks instead of bumps. The bypass will stop the truck and you will be much happier with the ride.
Yeah I looked into that but as they are over double the price and the truck will spend most of its time crawling rather than in the desert. Don't worry it'll get bypasses eventually, but I figure this is a good compromise for now and will still be useful once the bypasses installed.
 

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Assuming your speaking about the front right? The frame mounted front bumps going off the lower A-arm do not work like they are supposed to. There is too much leverage on them to work properly.
Just look at all the race photos of the trucks that are using bump cans, not a one of them is using a can next to the frame pivot.

To use them properly, you want them mounted at the top of the spindle. To have that, you really need to have a engine cage and a beefed up spindle to take the load. :saw: :welder:

If your just rock crawling, change the oil level in your remote reservoir and increase the nitrogen charge to at least 200 psi. This will give you a more radical pressure increase as you are bottoming out while keeping your initial valving soft. If your still bottoming out, change out your compression valving.

All of this takes time, but it is a LOT cheaper than running bumps in the front. Just save up as soon as you can for the by-pass shocks.

If your chatting about the rear, 4 inch all the way unless your using Light Racing Jounce shocks. You can only grab the 1.5 or 3 inch ones. We run what ever will fit under full compression but REALLY try to run the 3 inch.

That is our :2cents:

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah i could use the shocks as bumps but i just don't really feel comfortable letting the shock bottom out. i would really like the truck to be able to do a little of both, crawling and desert stuff, thus the air bump so i can still run the shocks pretty soft while cushioning the truck a little when it bottoms out. not looking to win any races or any thing just want to make sure shit doesn't fall apart when it hits hard.

besides the bumps are already purchased and installed so it is too late now :D, i work quick. im going to have to do a LOT of work on the rear end but after that the bypass shocks will go in for sure.

any suggestions for a nice leaf/shock setup that i can fit on the truck (with minimal cutting into the bed, i like having a truck still :p) that will work well with the Camburg LT kit.
 

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When I installed my bypass shocks up front I still kept a poly bump off the lower arm just to make sure that the shock never fully compressed. Last resort basically, but I don't think I ever really hit them unless I went pretty big.

If you really need your bed space then search for a cantilever rearend. There have been a few guys with tacoma's that have done this.

And as for leafs, go with the Deaver F67 spring under pack and 12" shackles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah i have seen the cantilever setups before. maybe some day when i get REALLY bored. ill just figure out some thing temporary for the rear right now that is better than stock and close to the front end, maybe just some icon remote resi's for the interim.
 

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I have some deaver F55's in my garage if ya wanna buy a leaf pack. Baby came before the rear bypasses did so the truck is on hold now. F55 just resting in the garage for now.
PM me if interested
 

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When I installed my bypass shocks up front I still kept a poly bump off the lower arm just to make sure that the shock never fully compressed. Last resort basically, but I don't think I ever really hit them unless I went pretty big.

If you really need your bed space then search for a cantilever rearend. There have been a few guys with tacoma's that have done this.

And as for leafs, go with the Deaver F67 spring under pack and 12" shackles.
That is what we would suggest, it would work really well.
We have only had one issue with Deaver springs. They sag... With in a week, you start loosing lift. Even after you send them back to have them rebuilt, they sag.
If anyone has another spring company option, that works just as well as the Deaver's, we are all ears!
ARB springs are awesome, if your towing and running a few hippopotamus in the bed of the truck... :D

We are always looking for something better I guess!

As for the rear shocks, remember you can tilt a shock up to about 30 degrees with out too much trouble. 2.5 inch or bigger... So that can help with the room issue!
If your just trying to save some money until you can spend the big bucks, look at the Bilstein shocks. 7100s can be re-valved easy and do a great job. Not sure of the price comparison though...

As for your front end. Changing out the valving will give you the best of both worlds. Even with a bump can. You also can use a better urethane bump stop in the stock locations. DO NOT JUST USE YOUR SHOCKS! This will break them! Even a by-pass is just using a hydraulic zone to slow down your suspension travel speed. It is NOT intended to have the full weight of the truck go metal to metal!
By playing with the nitrogen charge and the oil level in your remote, you can achieve much the same as the bump zone in a by-pass. If your running a 600 pound spring in the front, you can go high or low speed already. The only way to have more articulation up front is to run a 550 pound spring. But then your going to suffer at speed. Especially since you do not have the by-pass.

=-D

Setting your ride hight is also very important. If your really into the trails and then hitting the back roads for some speed, really look at a 50/50 set up. The more speed, the more bump (compression) travel you will need, up to about a 60/40 set up. Run more, and you are going to stress out your rack. Plus, you will not work well in the rocks.

It is hard to do them both well.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah doing them both well is going to be hard that is for sure. Both tasks are pretty much complete opposites of each other. but yeah im going to set the truck up for 50/50 in the front and what i can get out of the stock springs (in the rear) for now. i just HATE how stiff they are and was kind of hoping it wasnt all the springs fault and maybe the shit ass fagtech shocks some idiot put back there. but i am reminded about it every friggin day when i leave and come back home over some speed bumps...

GREAT suggestion on the 7100's they are a little cheaper than the icon ones (7100's = 188 each , icons=488 for the pair) and come in a huge variety so i can grab some nice squishy ones to try to match the front. I am thinking when i get back from the sand box (few months to a year) i may just put trailing arms on the back with just enough travel to match the front.
 

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Yeah doing them both well is going to be hard that is for sure. Both tasks are pretty much complete opposites of each other. but yeah im going to set the truck up for 50/50 in the front and what i can get out of the stock springs (in the rear) for now. i just HATE how stiff they are and was kind of hoping it wasnt all the springs fault and maybe the shit ass fagtech shocks some idiot put back there. but i am reminded about it every friggin day when i leave and come back home over some speed bumps...

GREAT suggestion on the 7100's they are a little cheaper than the icon ones (7100's = 188 each , icons=488 for the pair) and come in a huge variety so i can grab some nice squishy ones to try to match the front. I am thinking when i get back from the sand box (few months to a year) i may just put trailing arms on the back with just enough travel to match the front.
We found that we needed fairly heavy valving with the 7100s... I will look up the specs we were running on a 2000 Tundra. Check out just adding Deaver add a leafs in the rear for now and look into a longer stock placement shackle. Our Tacoma has the rear add a leafs and with 2.5 inch OEM King shocks. Works awesome compared to stock.
I have never liked the valving on the Fabteck shocks. Never seems quite right. Too much compression, not enough rebound. But if it is really harsh, check to make sure some joker did not place a spacer between the spring and the axle. This does noting for spring wrap up and your lifting not increasing the travel. Stock they only have about 2 to 2 1/2 inches of up travel. When working with only 8 to begin with, it gives a harsh ride. TJM is working on a replacement rear spring pack and maybe some add a leafs... Check them out! We are not a stocking dealer for them as of yet but they have been around for a long time and have great stuff!
http://www.tjmusa.com is their site.
You can pull just about 10 inches of travel with stock springs. You maybe able to pull 12 if you have the right rear shackle and move the pivot point back a bit. But you will be over flexing them and they will not last. But I think you can get a 50/50 ratio with 10 inches of usable travel fairly cheap! Add on a air bump and it will at least work well for the most part off road!

As for the trailing arm set up. That is the bets way to go, just make sure you are going for 14 to 16 inches of usable travel. You actually use more in the rear than the front. So that is a great match up travel # wise. If you can find a fab shop that is willing to work with you, you can even have some bed space left over! (granted, not a lot)

Keep us up too speed on what you do! :D Sounds like your having fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So the current setup for the rear is:

fabtech add-a-leafs
2.5" longer shackle (about to be changed to a 1.5" longer shackle)
fabtech shocks

maybe pulling out the stock bump and replacing it with one of those much softer rubber ones(timbren?) https://www.allprooffroad.com/9504tacomarearsuspension/489
then go for the 7100s in the stock location? i have boxed the rear of the truck already so i could mount em on a bar between the frame rails but i really hate having to do (fab) work twice since ill just have to rip em out later on anyway.
 

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So the current setup for the rear is:

fabtech add-a-leafs
2.5" longer shackle (about to be changed to a 1.5" longer shackle)
fabtech shocks

maybe pulling out the stock bump and replacing it with one of those much softer rubber ones(timbren?) https://www.allprooffroad.com/9504tacomarearsuspension/489
then go for the 7100s in the stock location? i have boxed the rear of the truck already so i could mount em on a bar between the frame rails but i really hate having to do (fab) work twice since ill just have to rip em out later on anyway.
u know deaver and icon make add a leaf packs, icons are made custom from deaver, just something to look into. a friend who works there had there add a leaf pack and remote resie's and rubber bumps in the back of his truck for a few years and loved it. u just gotta have weight back there so strap down a fat spare tire or too.
 

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So the current setup for the rear is:

fabtech add-a-leafs
2.5" longer shackle (about to be changed to a 1.5" longer shackle)
fabtech shocks

maybe pulling out the stock bump and replacing it with one of those much softer rubber ones(timbren?) https://www.allprooffroad.com/9504tacomarearsuspension/489
then go for the 7100s in the stock location? i have boxed the rear of the truck already so i could mount em on a bar between the frame rails but i really hate having to do (fab) work twice since ill just have to rip em out later on anyway.
u know deaver and icon make add a leaf packs, icons are made custom from deaver, just something to look into. a friend who works there ran there add a leaf pack and remote resie's and rubber bumps in the back of his truck for a few years and loved it. u just gotta have weight back there so strap down a fat spare tire or too. mid travel has alot of potentital if u use it accordingly. and as long as ur smart and dont try and be bj bawldin or pretend ur in a class 7 truck then u prob wont need to really reinforce the rear just yet. i'd wait to do that when ur serious about the rear
 

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That is what we would suggest, it would work really well.
We have only had one issue with Deaver springs. They sag... With in a week, you start loosing lift. Even after you send them back to have them rebuilt, they sag.
If anyone has another spring company option, that works just as well as the Deaver's, we are all ears!
Have you looked into the All Pro 50T pack? It's basically the same as the Deaver 62" springs but they have a lot more arch. There are a few threads on here I think regarding them. I have been very happy with mine after switching from the F67 pack.
 
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