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Hey guys I'm looking at this intake pipe and was wondering if it will fit on my 1998 3.4L V6......The ad says that It fits 99-04 Tacos? I don't think they changed the engine between 98-99? Maybe i'm stupid i dunno! But here is the link!

http://www.central4wd.com/store/itemdetail.asp?ID=9438

Any comments welcome!

Thanks in advance!

Kaleo
 

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The engines are the same, but the air boxes are different. A pre99 has a different MAF sensor and I think the diameter of that hoes may be slightly different. Some people feel that elbow will not do much for you if anything. Maybe with a supercharger it will help since the SC demands more air flow than stock. For non aspired applications I doubt you will get noticable gains if any.
 

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DCabTaco said:
Some people feel that elbow will not do much for you if anything. Maybe with a supercharger it will help since the SC demands more air flow than stock. For non aspired applications I doubt you will get noticable gains if any.
i agree... if it was $20 i'd pick it up just because but not for $90 though.
 

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DCabTaco said:
The engines are the same, but the air boxes are different. A pre99 has a different MAF sensor and I think the diameter of that hoes may be slightly different. Some people feel that elbow will not do much for you if anything. Maybe with a supercharger it will help since the SC demands more air flow than stock. For non aspired applications I doubt you will get noticable gains if any.
You've got it backwards just a lil. If you're running a N/A setup you want the least amount of restriction possible since there's no forced air. The stock tubing has a resonator that restricts air as it quiets the air intake. This tube is simply a different way to bypass the resonator on the stock setup. I have the Airaid MIT and the Deckplate mod on my 2000 Taco and I can tell you for certain that there is more kick in the 2.5k+rpm range as well as better throttle response.

Keep in mind that SC setups are forcing air into the engine meaning that air restrictions won't pose as much of a problem.
 

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Poopshute said:
You've got it backwards just a lil. If you're running a N/A setup you want the least amount of restriction possible since there's no forced air. The stock tubing has a resonator that restricts air as it quiets the air intake. This tube is simply a different way to bypass the resonator on the stock setup. I have the Airaid MIT and the Deckplate mod on my 2000 Taco and I can tell you for certain that there is more kick in the 2.5k+rpm range as well as better throttle response.

Keep in mind that SC setups are forcing air into the engine meaning that air restrictions won't pose as much of a problem.
just out of curiousity, for your na motor what power increase do you think you are getting with the tube?
 

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Ok I see where you are coming from and I agree with you to a certain extent, however I don’t fully agree with this statement,


Poopshute said:
Keep in mind that SC setups are forcing air into the engine meaning that air restrictions won't pose as much of a problem.

The point of a supercharger is to introduce more air to the engine. Having less restrictions in the intake path is the key factor of the amount of added air you are capable of introducing. Just like with the exhaust. If you have a restriction in the back end the supercharger can’t do it’s job to the fullest extent of its abilities. Don’t forget SC are rated by their ability to force are, or air flow rate in Cubic Feet per Minute or CFM. No matter how high the CFM of the supercharger, if the intake is as small as a straw (with very low CFM) it will not do much in the form of forcing air into the system. With a non aspired engine, there is much less air that passes through the system (intake, engine, and exhaust). This is why I said it will be more beneficial for a SCed engine.

Now what you said is true that the stock tube has a resonator, and yes, most people believe it restricts air. I have yet to see dyno numbers or actually measured CFM numbers to validate this theory, but I have heard of people having to modify their fuel maps because it tends to make them run lean. Which means it is doing what it is suppose to and allowing more air to flow through. You mentioned you felt more kick after you did the deckplate and the Airaid. That may be so, but in most cases the “I feel more power” is psychological. How much of a gain is, “more kick in the 2.5k+rpm range,” and how much of that is psychological due to the added sound effects of removing the silencer/resonator? How can we distinguish between the added HP from deckplate mod and Airaid elbow? You may very well have added HP, but without a before and after dyno test a gut feeling is all we have to go with. My advice to the original person that posted the question was that in my opinion it wasn’t worth the money for a NA. I would rather do the resonator removal mod in that situation for the cost of a few buck vs 90 for the Airaid. If all you care about is performance, that is the way I would go.

Personally I like a clean set up and since I have already dished out all the money for the SC and other performance goodies I am planning on getting an Airaid elbow or fabricating something up to allow more flow into my SC. I still haven’t decided, but I do have a Supra MAF sensor I will be putting since it has a bigger diameter. However, If I get the Airaid elbow it is only to clean up the engine compartment more since I have already removed the resonator thus reduced the restriction.
 

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DB... agreed for the most part. What I was getting at is that a SC forces air into the the engine meaning that it's going to suck in air one way or another. Yes opening up the air path will help this. My point of view is if you don't have force induction having a straight path for air to go into the engine would probably help. Yes, you're right... no dyno... seat of the pants. Don't know how much is psychological as I usually drive around with my music turned up so I can't hear much of what's going on under the hood. I felt the "kick" at 3k rpm before my mods and it seems to have dropped just a little after the mods... again seat of my ass. I guess what made me go with the MIT over the ISR mod is that doing the ISR mod on my plumbing would've been difficult as it is the older style. To do it right I would've had to have bought the newer style plumbing (found in the 2000+ 4Runners) and then splice a pipe where the resonator would be removed. The price would've been more than the price of the MIT. The MIT cleans up the engine bay and, by laws of physics, gives better air flow to the engine. I can't give anyone an estimate or number of HP increase as I haven't dyno'd it. I wont even estimate it because it would be a simple opinion. All I can say is that the throttle response has picked up (IMHO). Had a few Taco owners drive mine and compare it with theirs and they say the same thing. I honestly don't think $140 (cost of MIT, Amsoil Air Filter, and Deckplate) is that much money compared to the FIPK. The mod I did yields the same "seat of the pants" results as any other intake out there and still gives you the cleaner/factory look while giving you the option to close up your airbox to make it back to "stock" or for intense wet driving situation. Gotta still stand behind this as I see the money I spent on it to be worth it. To sum it up... here is what I GAINED:

-Cleaner engine bay
-Smoother plumbing for air flow (how much does this increase performance?... obviously up for debate)
-Awesome sound (ok... I KNOW SOUND DOESN'T MEAN ANYTHING FOR PERFORMANCE!... IT JUST SOUNDS HELLA COOL!)

I know you're not hating but I just wanted to give you my argument back.
 

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Juicy Jaos said:
just out of curiousity, for your na motor what power increase do you think you are getting with the tube?
Again... can't give you actual numbers but I will stand by my word that throttle response has picked up. If your cost consious just do an ISR mod... if you want a clean looking engine bay with a straight tube (especially if you have the older plumbing) I'd recommend the MIT. It's all up for debate. My main reasoning behind it was I didn't want to mess with the stock tube too much and wanted a clean look.
 

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Ok understood, and I agree. In your situation it was probably better (cost wise included) to get the AIRAID. I would have to say I like your set up more than an FIPK anyway so I would go with what you have as well. However I was just trying to save the guy some money, but as you pointed out it all depends on what you want and how you want to achive it.
 

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DCabTaco said:
Ok understood, and I agree. In your situation it was probably better (cost wise included) to get the AIRAID. I would have to say I like your set up more than an FIPK anyway so I would go with what you have as well. However I was just trying to save the guy some money, but as you pointed out it all depends on what you want and how you want to achive it.
And that's how you have a civil discussion on a forum. :) Exactly my thoughts DC... exactly.
 

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I have an S/C and a friend that swings by my pad all the time with a N/A, both 99's. I swapped my FPIK with the OEM set-up and I like the stock setup better especially when I took the elbow off and deckplated the box. I did not notice any gains when I deckplated or took the elbow off though, just in sound.

Having the S/C, the fuel pressure reg. vacuum hose runs to my boost/manifold port, but the N/A has it running to this funky looking box in the intake track. I made sure to put a 43.5mm freeze plug where that box once stood.

On the N/A, the FIPK looks like it has the vacuum hose extended into the air filter cone, which I bought at NAPA. Was wondering if you could route the FPR hose to the intake manifold port with the N/A's like how you install it with the s/c.

Anyways, my friend loves the sound of the FIPK but he's goin back to the stock set-up that I deckplated for him for $7.

I believe the deckplate mod is better than a FIPK, but I did get better gas mileage with the K&N, although you can hear the s/c whine and the LG/HR ping more. In open loop, my air/fuel gauge runs richer with the deckplate than with the K&N and thats why I like the deckplate better.
 

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got mine at AutoZone in Rancho Cucamunga. I tried lots of smaller AutoZone's and Kragen's and none of them even had freeze plugs. I finally went to this 24 hour giant AutoZone and begged them to search for one and the guy got off his ass and it took him like 5 mins of digging in the back, then wala!
 
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