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Deal Master
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Discussion Starter #1
So I had a brainfart while removing the cone washers during my Front 4.30 ARB locker install.

In previous post, I recommended threading a nut (or double nut) flush to the end of the stud when striking with a brass drift to remove cone washers. I failed to listen to my own advice and managed to damage 3 hub studs.

Since the threads were damaged, rather than rethreading the studs, I opted for new replacements. Toyota part # 90080-11282

The manual hub studs are actually threaded on each end - So you must turn the stud counterclockwise for removal-
THis can be accomplished using double nuts, vise grips or a bolt extraction device. Double nut methods is the least destructive method, but not applicable in my situation since the damaged studs did not permit threading of a nut.

I purchased a bolt extraction set from sears a while back.
Sears # 952160/952161


I used the #2 Bolt-Out™ remover fits Hex sizes 5/16 in. and 8mm
which worked like a charm.




I installed the new replacement stud using the double nut method.

More pics here:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~grillmasterp/Aisin_hub_stud_repair/

GrillmasterP
 

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Why the fuck are you hitting the studs to get the cones off?
 

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Becuase thats how you loosen them up. Hitting them with a brass drift shouldnt damage them at all, but should allow you to loosen the cone enough to take it off.
 

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RaideRNatioN said:
Becuase thats how you loosen them up. Hitting them with a brass drift shouldnt damage them at all, but should allow you to loosen the cone enough to take it off.
I never hit the studs, always around them, never on them. Never any problems... whatever works, I was always scared I'd waller out the holes or bend the studs so I just find something solid and get a little "frequency" bouncing around them :) (oh, and waffle face hammers are hard on Al, duh)
 

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Deal Master
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wes said:
Why the fuck are you hitting the studs to get the cones off?

Perhaps you should learn to RTFM :flipoff1:


Back to the subject-
When threading a nut flush to the end of the stud- I've never had a problem before. I have also hitthe chromed hub body before, but found striking the studs more effective (Quicker).

My problem was haste- and possibly using too heavy of a hammer in conjunction with the brass drift. I also skipped threading a nut onto the stud before striking.
No big deal- the hub studs are cheap.
 

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Deal Master
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Discussion Starter #6
Wes said:
(oh, and waffle face hammers are hard on Al, duh)
Oh- yet another reason to strike the studs with a brass drift- or use a brass drift on the chromed hub body instead of hitting it directly with a hammer-
Although any damage to the hub body will probably just be cosmetic.
The hub studs are cheaper than the hub body too.

FYI - The hub bodies are chromed steel, not Al - Just the dial assembly is Al.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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I always put a nut on the stud, then hit the nut and the stud together as one...
 

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WD-40 and a very sharp chisle working my way around the back of the hub. I can have all 6 cone washers out in less than 1 minute. As long as you are careful, you will not damage the hub.
 

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Going John Galt
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using anti-seeze solves all the problem of getting those washers out :)
 

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Going John Galt
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Wgasa84 said:
So does breaking parts so they never have the time to get 'seezed' in there. :lamo:


Yeah yeah. I seem to be following after Dan anymore.
at least you are learning from the master, LOL
 

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Deal Master
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Discussion Starter #12
hytenor said:
using anti-seeze solves all the problem of getting those washers out :)
This is actually the first time these particular hubs needed to be removed. (Hence no anti-sieze)
The cone washers were indexed and copper anti-sieze was used during re-installation
I use anti-sieze on almost nearly every bolt I touch, with the exception of ring gear & lca bolts - (use loctite)
 

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When I started all that crap with my axle stuff I didn't even know there was a FM :D Good tip though- although most of my stuff now is like Wgasa's, never has time to sieze its on and off so much. And all assembled with antisieze originally.
 

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you people and your hammers. dose anyone else use the small flat screwdriver anymore? just tap it between the split in the cone.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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hytenor said:
using anti-seeze solves all the problem of getting those washers out :)
X2. I put anti sieze on the ones you sold me. Didn't look like they had any.
 

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grillmasterp said:
So I had a brainfart while removing the cone washers during my Front 4.30 ARB locker install.

In previous post, I recommended threading a nut (or double nut) flush to the end of the stud when striking with a brass drift to remove cone washers. I failed to listen to my own advice and managed to damage 3 hub studs.

Since the threads were damaged, rather than rethreading the studs, I opted for new replacements. Toyota part # 90080-11282

The manual hub studs are actually threaded on each end - So you must turn the stud counterclockwise for removal-
THis can be accomplished using double nuts, vise grips or a bolt extraction device. Double nut methods is the least destructive method, but not applicable in my situation since the damaged studs did not permit threading of a nut.

I purchased a bolt extraction set from sears a while back.
Sears # 952160/952161


I used the #2 Bolt-Out™ remover fits Hex sizes 5/16 in. and 8mm
which worked like a charm.




I installed the new replacement stud using the double nut method.

More pics here:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~grillmasterp/Aisin_hub_stud_repair/

GrillmasterP


Why don`t you buy the Front Range hub stud upgrade?-you shouldn`t have to ever replace them again....their ARP studs.
 

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Wes said:
I never hit the studs, always around them, never on them. Never any problems... whatever works, I was always scared I'd waller out the holes or bend the studs so I just find something solid and get a little "frequency" bouncing around them :) (oh, and waffle face hammers are hard on Al, duh)
pussy... :rolleyes: Hit that shit like a step child son :D
 

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Going John Galt
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NorcalPR said:
X2. I put anti sieze on the ones you sold me. Didn't look like they had any.
the stuff wears off when you swap CVs all the time :p I didn't have any with me the last time I had to pull one.
 

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Deal Master
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Discussion Starter #19
padesertboy said:
Why don`t you buy the Front Range hub stud upgrade?-you shouldn`t have to ever replace them again....their ARP studs.
-I've already changed them- Bought them from Shannon @ Champion since I am in Houston. (I also have about a dozen spares now)

-Looks like they are about 4-5x the price of the OEM studs-

-Don't expect to make the same mistake again.


I also think they may be too long for the application-
Murderman Had spare front Axles/hubs from earlier model trucks-
the ones we pulled were too long
 
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