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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, since the search tool doesn't work for some reason I'm just posting new. I'm sure it's been covered, but I'm kind of short on time to search each post one by one.

Does anyone know a good alignment shop that also can do proper camber adjustment (in the north phoenix area prefered, but in the valley in general is ok)?

Thanks,

Pat
 

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Network Alignment & Brakes
(602) 867-8061
12639 N Cave Creek Rd
Phoenix, AZ

Network Alignment & Brakes
(623) 931-5102
6615 W Bethany Home Rd
Glendale, AZ

Network Alignment & Brakes
(480) 649-0839
104 E Main St
Mesa, AZ

Network Alignment & Brakes
(480) 539-8277
1021 N Gilbert Rd # 108
Gilbert, AZ

Network Alignment & Brakes
(480) 984-6714
11250 E Apache Trl
Apache Junction, AZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so I had my alignment done at Network on Cave Creek Rd. I still have some positive camber. They said that they could adjust it to 0 or even negative, but it would screw with my cast and mess with the pull of the truck. He basically said that where he has it right now is a happy medium to where the tire wear would be minimal, and the steering would be ok. Now...looking at the camber visually...it's very obvious. I know what camber is, what caster is, and what toe is, but I'm not sure how they affect eachother. Would you happen to know..or anyone for that matter how putting my camber at 0 would change my caster to where my steering would start pulling? I'm running camburg upper A arms with DR coil-overs at 2.5" of lift (aprx). Just trying to decide if I should take it back and make them zero it out.

Thanks.
 

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I want to know this as well. :)
 

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Ok, so I had my alignment done at Network on Cave Creek Rd. I still have some positive camber. They said that they could adjust it to 0 or even negative, but it would screw with my cast and mess with the pull of the truck. He basically said that where he has it right now is a happy medium to where the tire wear would be minimal, and the steering would be ok. Now...looking at the camber visually...it's very obvious. I know what camber is, what caster is, and what toe is, but I'm not sure how they affect eachother. Would you happen to know..or anyone for that matter how putting my camber at 0 would change my caster to where my steering would start pulling? I'm running camburg upper A arms with DR coil-overs at 2.5" of lift (aprx). Just trying to decide if I should take it back and make them zero it out.

Thanks.
In very rough numbers (because it's model and option package specific), Tacos are camber: 0 +/- .75 degrees, caster: 2 +/- .75, toe: 0.05 +/-0.08"
Did you get a print out? Is it even close to these specs? I don't have any history with the camburg arms but I doubt they are causing a problem (based on their reputation). It's possible you got a tech that doesn't know how to deal with 2.5" of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From what I've heard these guys do lifted trucks all the time. I didn't get the spec printout, but he said my camber was .4 degrees which would be within spec if above holds for my truck. However, I'm amazed at how visually obvious it is. Now I'm wondering if it was actually .4 degrees.
 

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Do you have an angle finder like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
or know someone that does? Place a straight edge across the rim and check it with the angle finder....if it grossly out like you suspect, you'll be able to see it on this gage. Many years ago one of the 4Runner guys took his to Tempe Toyota and the camber was so far off he took it somewhere else to have it fixed....so it does depend on the technician, not the shop:banghead:
 

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"Do an SAS and you won't have to worry about anymore."

"Sarcasm on"

Yeah, then you'll spend 1 year collecting parts.. 6 months ACTUALLY doing the swap, then another 3 months working out the bugs. Then once it ACTUALLY gets you into the trails, you'll break something only to have to wrench on it some more just to have it driveable again. Then wrench on it for another 2 months just to get it trail worthy again. All and all having a SAS'd rig that you only take out once a month. SAS'ing ain't for everyone.. :)

"Sarcasm off"

Yeah.. try another shop or another tech.. That cannot be right.


AzHobbes
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Why do SAS guys never realize that a lot of us would love to swap, but don't necessarily have the tools, time, or $$? Not to mention my truck is 10 yrs old and the only vehicle I have....they grow up so fast. Anyway, yeah, I'm going to check the angle and if it's way out I'm going to take it back to the same place since I already paid for it and make them fix it. The owner was who I talked to, but who knows who actually did it. Thanks guys...even you SAS guys :)
 

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I have a SFA Toyota. It's an 1985 4 Runner. I took my truck to Desert Rat @ Cave Creek & Bell RD. They do lifts, and they do alignments. I felt they were the best option to do it as they understood the lift, the 4x4 and the alignment. A bonus is that it only cost me $40 out the door for the job!

John
 

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Alignment

Get a printout of the alignment specs before and after. I realize you don't have one from before you brought it in the first time, but any good alignment shop should give you a readout everytime. And on the SFA's the only thing which is easily adjustable is the toe anyway. So if anything else is out its a big problem. As far as affecting each other, the camber effects wear and pulling, the toe effects wear and steering angle, and unstable steering, and the caster mostly effects pulling. But they all effect each other. Camber and caster are adjusted with the same bolts, so if they max out on the adjuster, it isn't always perfect.
 

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if u want u can try gary's 4-wheel allianment off 19th ave and deer valley its first come first serve. hes an old timer but does great work fixed all my I.F.S. problems first time around cost me fifty bucks. he'll even scope it out for free and give you the numbers if u want to fix it your self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright, so after driving it all yesterday I noticed some major tire rub on the frame on my driver side, but none on the passenger side. I looked down at the tie rods and the passenger side is adjusted all the way out and the driver's side is adjusted all the way in. I've always had a little rub on both sides, but what the hell is that. Anyway, I'm taking it back today and giving them another shot at fixing it. If not I'll try some of your other suggested places. Thanks guys.
 

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Alright, so after driving it all yesterday I noticed some major tire rub on the frame on my driver side, but none on the passenger side. I looked down at the tie rods and the passenger side is adjusted all the way out and the driver's side is adjusted all the way in. I've always had a little rub on both sides, but what the hell is that. Anyway, I'm taking it back today and giving them another shot at fixing it. If not I'll try some of your other suggested places. Thanks guys.
Scary stuff...I hope you get a different tech this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
He keeps saying that if he adjusts the camber to zero it will set my caster out and my truck will pull to one side when I let go of the wheel. So, I figure he's either right, doesn't want to do the camber, or can't do it. Either way, I'd rather have another shop look at it and give me a second opinion than have him work on it at this point.
 

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Gary's (posted above) sounds like a good choice. If that doesn't work out you could use:
Campus Alignment & Brake Service
910 N Scottsdale Rd Ste 4
Tempe, AZ
85281
Phone: (480) 967-8390
My tires always wore evenly:D
 
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