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truck ~n~ tow
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well finally got my skid plate combo installed and thought I'd share it...
This is really only for the folk who already have the earlier bumpers... as the newer ones will come with the tabs for the install and it will all be truly bolt up...

Here's the tabs AP is using...


Mike at AP did all the work so I take no credit...

First Mike bolted the tabs to the plate and use a floor jack to lift it into position... The two rear bolts were installed but not tightened to hold the rear in position...

Lifting the front up to the lower hoop with the jack simplifies things for sure... Handy little wood block helps...


Initially Mike couldn't get the tabs to line up correctly to the lower hoop and the plate would not move rearward... simple fix... just had to oblong the rear holes forward maybe a 1/4 forward so the plate could move a little... I believe AP will add this adjustment to the future skids...


Once the holes were oblonged it was straight forward... tighten the rear two bolts snug so they're flush... Lift the front portion of the plate to the lower hoop and tack the tabs...


Then take it off and weld up the tabs...


Here's some pics of the front skid bolted up...







There is also a tranny skid... I just forgot to take a pic on the rack... It bolts to the rear portion of the front skid and covers back to the transfer crossmember... 3 bolts hold it to the front skid and 2 go though the crossmember... The holes already exist in the crossmember so it's simple... I'll take more pics later as I have pulled everything to paint it all... I'm sure AP will have pics posted on their site very soon... Like I said before... New owners of the AP winch bumper will not have any of this hassle and it will all be bolt up... Plus they have improved the original bumper with some strength improvements... Dom on the middle hoop (The hoop that the winch supports mount to) and a slight bend difference... Fark... I want the new one... LOL

Oh and call AP to see when these are going to be available... Though I'm guessing since it went without much issue it should be nearly immediate...

Thanks to Jon, Sarah and Mike for getting me fixed up and they're friendly hospitality... And thanks to Sarah for making me buy that M8000... ;)... Belated Fathers day gift to myself... :D

Oh and Honorable mention to Terry for swapping that Roller Fairlead for the hawse...

Synthetic is the plan on the Warn... In short order... ;)

I intend to give these units a test this weekend... :driving:

'Cept the winch... as I got some mounting issues with the control box... And where I'm gonna mount it... Grille ain't as deep as the '01s and later units... Though I think I might still be able to pull it off... with a lot of grille moddin'... ;)
 

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:eek: those bolts are going to get sheared off!
 

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Thanks Dell for the write-up. Now I can't make fun of you anymore for having a winch mount bumper without a winch!

We should have the skid plates within 2 weeks.

The larger plate is $129 (from the bumper to under the diff)
The smaller plate is $79 (extends back to the tranny)
-Or $199 for both!

Made from 7GA steel.
 

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I just installed my M8000 the other day. Not so fun, but I got it in there. I mounted the control box on the left (facing the truck). I just fits in, I made a little bracket to hold it there. I did have to remove some of the grill, the lower mounting point. Seems to work fine.
I am really interested on that skid plate. Right now those steering lines are really vulnerable. I will have to call All-Pro about this.
Thanks for letting us know.
Scott
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
scotth said:
I just installed my M8000 the other day. Not so fun, but I got it in there. I mounted the control box on the left (facing the truck). I just fits in, I made a little bracket to hold it there. I did have to remove some of the grill, the lower mounting point. Seems to work fine.
I am really interested on that skid plate. Right now those steering lines are really vulnerable. I will have to call All-Pro about this.
Thanks for letting us know.
Scott
Can you PM me some pics... Did you cut out (Box the opening) or did you thin the shell by cutting away some of the backside of the grille ? I'd like to keep the grille facia intact with just an opening for the control plug...

Already make the bracket for the C box... Just needs some thougts on the girlle mod...

Any help will be appreciated...
 

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Check your email...
Scott
 

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TacoDell said:
Carry Extras...
TacoDell said:
Mangled is cool... Long as the plate stays in place... I don't need bling bolts just to look purdy...
Extras won't do any good if the head is so mangled you can't get something on it to turn it and get it out. And mangled is only cool to those who feel they have to impress people with something being mangled, rather than an ability to wheel well or utilize well-designed items. If those heads get sheared off entirely, you'll have a helluva fun time getting the rest of the bolt out. Recessed/countersunk bolts are much less likely to get hung up/messed up/sheared off. And if you need your skidplate to "look purdy", there's something wrong with your priorities.
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
synovus said:
Extras won't do any good if the head is so mangled you can't get something on it to turn it and get it out. And mangled is only cool to those who feel they have to impress people with something being mangled, rather than an ability to wheel well or utilize well-designed items. If those heads get sheared off entirely, you'll have a helluva fun time getting the rest of the bolt out. Recessed/countersunk bolts are much less likely to get hung up/messed up/sheared off. And if you need your skidplate to "look purdy", there's something wrong with your priorities.
Yer points are mostly right... And I'm sure the first time it happens I will concede... At least partially...

The only bolts that could be a critical issue, as far as shearing, is the the lower two that utilize the the two weld in nuts (Original Skid Bolt location) on the lower crossmember... Those two are ones I'd choose most... to recess... As they could be a real PITA... And most likely to fail... I plan on doing these two... But it's unlikely I'll do any others... Unless somehow I find myself extremely bored one day... ;)

I'm going out this weekend to see if I can shear/mangle a few of them...

Wish me luck with my priorities... :rolleyes:
 

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TacoDell said:
The only bolts that could be a critical issue, as far as shearing, is the the lower two that utilize the the two weld in nuts (Original Skid Bolt location) on the lower crossmember... Those two are ones I'd choose most... to recess... As they could be a real PITA... And most likely to fail...
Obviously those are the ones we were talking about.
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
synovus said:
Obviously those are the ones we were talking about.

Obviously... I was a little slow on that... :banghead:

Yep those need help...
 

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synovus said:
Extras won't do any good if the head is so mangled you can't get something on it to turn it and get it out. And mangled is only cool to those who feel they have to impress people with something being mangled, rather than an ability to wheel well or utilize well-designed items. If those heads get sheared off entirely, you'll have a helluva fun time getting the rest of the bolt out. Recessed/countersunk bolts are much less likely to get hung up/messed up/sheared off. And if you need your skidplate to "look purdy", there's something wrong with your priorities.
Yes, at least very low profile hex-bolts could be used in this application. Or reccessed plates would be better (similar to low profile diff plugs). Synovous, do you have a better option? Like ORS? I really like their work.
 

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bray said:
Yes, at least very low profile hex-bolts could be used in this application. Or reccessed plates would be better (similar to low profile diff plugs). Synovous, do you have a better option? Like ORS? I really like their work.
Recessed/countersunk holes and bolts like on BudBuilt's skidplates is what I would recommend.
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep I'll get er done eventually...

Well the Pontiac Loop failed to sheer the bolts off... On July 1st's Rattlesnake run in the San Bernardino's... I tried... I guess I'll try again On Holcomb Creek and the John Bull... If that dont' pop 'em... I doubt I'll bother to worry much about those loser bolts... I did mod them though... I drilled out the welded nut and put a new bolt, nut and lock washer through there so if it sheers... I'll just pop in new one... Easy trail fix... ;)
 

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Bud (Budbuilt) now has an angle iron bracket that mounts to the steering rack bolts and allows the skid to be bolted to this. Not only is this much stronger than using the factory tabs (as above), but it also allows east access to the nuts on the other side of the skid; makes removing mangled bolts a non issue. I have this set up and use grade 8 bolts and washers then replace at oil changes.
 
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