Zuk (if it`s the same Zuk in Az) is a fawkin genius when it comes to his set-ups. He`ll tell ya if he thinks something isn`t a good idea...and will also tell you to try to break it certain set-ups....and I highly doubt there is a diff that he isn`t familiar with.
if yer beaten the snot out of it look at bobby long cryro`d
Yes, I have searched, and read a LOT of threads on diffs here, but havent found the detailed info I was looking for. I kinda just wanted to be able to pick the brains of someone who has done a few installs, like ZUK, for info that never seems to get covered in the usual diff threads. (Like what is in all of ZUK's write-ups...)
OK, for starters...Diff only has 90K on it, all hiway miles, with LIGHT offroad use. Running only 2" spacer on the front, and (I'm guessing, original) Toyota CVs.
I found I had a bad inboard DS CV, and it had started the stub splines wallowing in the sidegear. Joint has only had at most 3K miles on it since it started wallowing.
Got the diff out, and apart, and saw that BOTH the DS stub and the PS intermediate shaft had started to slightly contact the side gear pinion shaft.
Wondering if anyone has seen this happen frequently.
Wondering if this means I can expect issues on the ADD side or not.
Also, wondering how much side play is normal for the sidegears in the diff case bores. Or, if anyone actually has specs on the bore diameter.
And the curved thrust washers under the spider gears show where the finish has become, i guess, "speckled" looking...Wondering if its time to replace them.
I know these seem like dumb questions, but I am on a TIGHT budget, so gotta do this as cheap as possible. (Which I HATE to do...I usually like to do things the right way and get them perfect the first time that its almost a curse).
I also had a question about the feasability of using a an early Truetrac, but dont comment on that here please. I need to do more searching, and might start up a seperate thread for that if i need to.