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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, been a while since I posted. I had a 2000 TRD V6 5spd,115K miles, but I rolled it a few weeks ago-BUMMER, I had a new Marlin 5 spd...Anyway, I needed another car asap & I couldn't find a 5 spd anywhere with less than 150K so I bought an 03' TRD V6 AT with 46K miles....I took my fabtech coilovers & my 32mud terrains off my 2000 & they're sittin in my garage for now. I'm trying to decide whether to do this truck up, or is the auto/trans a waste of time to build up? #1)I'm looking @ either Hoes+Camburg UCA in front(I'll sell my Fabtechs), w/ Alcans in rear...about 2.5" Lift#2) Either Tough Country 5", or Fabtech 6" drop brackets & wait a while on the rear springs...I want to run 33's & either regear later or try the supercharger & maybe not regear. Anybody feel free to chime in, flame, laugh, or encourage....I'm afraid to pull the trigger with a weak link of a tranny....HELP!!
Thanks
 

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i like mine, valve body upgrade helps alot. im running 33s, used to be on 4.10s but i just regeared to 4.56s and they are alot better
 

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Lots of folks wheel with slush boxes and swear by them. Like anything it's a plus and minus kinda thing. Basically the torque converter is the good and the bad of it. It's good as a gear reduction and is easier on the rest of the drive train components as it eliminates much of the shock loading on them. The bad is the loss of down hill engine braking. For some types of wheeling like mud bogging or deep sand you wouldn't want anything else. For rock crawling, choose your camp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, so it's not a complete waste of $$, that's good to hear!! From all the replies I have a few questions..1) Who makes the valve body upgrade?? I swapped my 5 spd myself, think I can handle the valve body?? Also, what does it do better than the stock one?? 2) Do I wait to break it before any upgrades?? 3) I'm a redline fan, but the Toyota manual says ONLY toyota fluid?? Any feedback??4) Any good shops for autos near Sacramento-Nor Cal?? Marlin only does manuals... 5) Last but not least what the heck is IMO?? Thanks again!!
 

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OK, so it's not a complete waste of $$, that's good to hear!! From all the replies I have a few questions..
1) Who makes the valve body upgrade?? I swapped my 5 spd myself, think I can handle the valve body?? Also, what does it do better than the stock one??
2) Do I wait to break it before any upgrades??
3) I'm a redline fan, but the Toyota manual says ONLY toyota fluid?? Any feedback??
4) Any good shops for autos near Sacramento-Nor Cal?? Marlin only does manuals...
5) Last but not least what the heck is IMO?? Thanks again!!
1. you send your stock valve body to ipt or level 10 and they modify it to shift quicker and slip less. less slip and faster shift = less heat. yes its not that hard to remove and replace the valve body
2. hell no unless you want to rebuild the whole transmission
3. i use amsoil with no problems
4. no clue im in socal
5. in my opinion
 

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mine may only be a prerunner, but i accually like the auto more, for some of the tighter areas, sometimes its better to have an auto, sometimes its better to have a manual, like its been stated before, its a good bad thing, gl and remember its what YOU want not others
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks For the advise....I'll look up "ipt" & "level 10" for pricing & such. I already miss my 5 spd though!! I drove to Reno form Sac & set the cruise for about 75mph, my truck burned over 3/4 of a tank??? It was in 2nd gear for about 1/3 of the trip...3rd gear is useless....oh well. I bought my 2000 whosale for $6K & put a tranny & winshield into it, grey wire mod, all Redline fluids, new plugs-filters & got an alignment...flipped it....and my insurance gave me $16k for it....needless to say, this one didn't cost me very much.....I just need to decide what lift to do next...any thoughts about Tough Country or Fabtech drop brackets?? One's about $1500, one's about $2K....either way, I'll only get blocks for the rear, which I'll swap later for leafs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
dont do a drop bracket is my only advice
Are they bad news or what?? It seems after alot of searching-that's the only way to run 33's with no trimming & no spacers while keeping the IFS...Is that your trk Drabnor?? It looks like U went with the camburg long travel & the glass fenders?? NICE!! My truck is BONE stock & not a scratch or dent anywhere, I have a fresh start with this one, so I just want to do it wright...I've only wheeled 2x though, once in the snow & one ralley style on a 3/4 lane fire road campin', that ended up pretty bad....the ralley drivin was fine, just took it out of 4 hi , left the locker on , & tried to do a 35mph doghnut to show off & flipped it 1.75 times.....Maybe I should save my $$ & invest in a full truck roll bar before I lift it & it gets even easier to flip...
 

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Are they bad news or what?? It seems after alot of searching-that's the only way to run 33's with no trimming & no spacers while keeping the IFS
thats about all they accomplish. drop brackets have a reputation for reducing ground clearance to stock or lower, decreasing suspension travel and articulation, and raising the center of gravity while increasing over all tippyness and potential for a rollover.
 

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you can easily run 33s with 3" of lift

run a 285/75r16 which is 33x11.50 and thats what i run with no rubbing

just gotta do the right trimming and get the right back spacing is key to

if you do a drop bracket lift do the tough country i personally think its a better lift and have heard alot of good things about it
 

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nothing wrong with and auto i ran amsoil in mine from day one it went caboom at 300000km and thats having 33s more of its life and towing a trailer. and as far as wheeling its sweet
 

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Are they bad news or what?? It seems after alot of searching-that's the only way to run 33's with no trimming & no spacers while keeping the IFS...Is that your trk Drabnor?? It looks like U went with the camburg long travel & the glass fenders?? NICE!! My truck is BONE stock & not a scratch or dent anywhere, I have a fresh start with this one, so I just want to do it wright...I've only wheeled 2x though, once in the snow & one ralley style on a 3/4 lane fire road campin', that ended up pretty bad....the ralley drivin was fine, just took it out of 4 hi , left the locker on , & tried to do a 35mph doghnut to show off & flipped it 1.75 times.....Maybe I should save my $$ & invest in a full truck roll bar before I lift it & it gets even easier to flip...
yea all they do is lift the truck but there are better ways to get lift.

you can fit 33s with just a 2-3" coilover lift, look around for donahoes or kings or camburg coilovers.

heres my junk with 33x12.50x15 with donahoe coilovers and deaver leafsprings out back



same lift but with 31x10.50s
 

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My matic wheels fine. But I do more shooting, camping and hunting trips these days. I used to wheel hardcore in the old days and I liked both stick and matics. But if I had my choice it would be a matic.:2cents:
 

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I've wheeled both sticks and autos and have no probs with either. I currently wheel an auto and love not stalling on steep climbs. :p I was dreading switching to an auto initially but after I got accustomed to it and started using all settings I found I didn't miss the stick except on the open pavement.

And yes, it will get fully built one of these days.
 

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I've only wheeled 2x though, once in the snow & one ralley style on a 3/4 lane fire road campin', that ended up pretty bad....the ralley drivin was fine, just took it out of 4 hi , left the locker on , & tried to do a 35mph doghnut to show off & flipped it 1.75 times.....Maybe I should save my $$ & invest in a full truck roll bar before I lift it & it gets even easier to flip...
You say you only have been off road two times and you rolled the truck the 2nd time?

Uhh… not to sound like a jerk but instead of investing in a full truck roll-bar you should slow down and learn safe off road driving practice. Really I don’t mean to sound like an ass but off roading can present many dangers. There is a lot of fun to be had out there and many ways to die.
 

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I like my auto for wheeling. By using your left foot for braking, you can ease up on stuff.

On a side note, I know a guy with a Jeep Cherokee, which has the same tranny as a Tacoma, and he's got a turbocharged engine in it putting out over 300 hp, and the tranny is holding up apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You're correct Bent Wheel. I had sports cars before my late Taco...Things happen alot differently up high @ 35mph...I had a ton of fun with the drift steer & e brake on that gravel fire road. If I hadn't tried the doughnut all would have been fine. I'm just glad my friend and me are ok. Things could have alot worse.
 
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