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Discussion Starter #1
i was wondering if anyone out there had any knowledge on jeep xj's, im thinking of getting one in the near future and just have a few question i cant find answers to:

how do you identify what rear axle an xj has? what kind of front axle do they have?
whats the biggest tire you can run on an xj with stock axles? and with a super 35 upgrade?
any certin model years to stay away from and any to look for?

thanks guys for any help you guys can give me
 

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805tacoma said:
i was wondering if anyone out there had any knowledge on jeep xj's, im thinking of getting one in the near future and just have a few question i cant find answers to:

how do you identify what rear axle an xj has? what kind of front axle do they have?
whats the biggest tire you can run on an xj with stock axles? and with a super 35 upgrade?
any certin model years to stay away from and any to look for?

thanks guys for any help you guys can give me
PM Reebles.

she is the token ttora jeep chick...who knows her shit.
 

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805tacoma said:
i was wondering if anyone out there had any knowledge on jeep xj's, im thinking of getting one in the near future and just have a few question i cant find answers to:

how do you identify what rear axle an xj has? what kind of front axle do they have?
whats the biggest tire you can run on an xj with stock axles? and with a super 35 upgrade?
any certin model years to stay away from and any to look for?

thanks guys for any help you guys can give me
I did alot of research into these before I bought my '85 Toy. The pre- 90's had issues with wireing and......thats all i can recall of the top of my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
RedRunnertc said:
Why do you want one? LOL

Seriously - why not an '85 4Runner?
im looking into them plus theyre really easy find here where i live including parts unlike 85 4runners and pickups, just thought it would make a nice trail rig?
 

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Hey,
here's my old baby.


I've learned quite a bit about those things in the time I owned it. It made a gread offroad rig, and went through everything I threw at it. It just wan't the greatest around town. I moved to the cities where there are no trails, so it was kinda useless...

But anyways...
Here's a Dana 35.

and here is a 8.25


The easiest way I think to tell the difference, is the 8.25 is flat on the bottom. If you're gonna get one and don't plan on swapping the axles, get the 8.25 for sure. The 35's are crap. Even with all that chromoly stuff...crap. I've seen too many jeeps stuck on the trail with a broken D35 axle shaft. For the front, they all came with Dana 30's.

With the 8.25 and the D30 you can get away with 35's, as long as you don't completely beat the crap outta it.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks roodki, that helps alot, do you think i can get away with running 33's on the d35? what about a locker? i plan on staying with 33's i dont plan on ever going up to a 35's but i do want to run lockers front and rear i just wondering now if the d35 can handle 33's and a locker or if i should just stick with the 8.25, i just want to keep my options open when finding an xj whether it be a d35 or a 8.25
 

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One thing you want to think about is the fact that they're unibody. The D35 is crap as was said. Even with the super 35 stuff added, the housing flexes like mad. The axle tubes are weak and bend easily. Other than that, they aren't a bad vehicle. You want to keep with the high pinion front. I can't remember when they went to a low pinion but it's not as good. The 99 and up are supposed to have so much emissions crap that they are a total pain with a lot less power. The 4.0 is a pretty good engine but get one with the high output (91+) as the older use a French Renix fuel injection. It's not bad as far as MPFI goes, but it isn't as good as the DC fuel injection. To get serious you need to add an SYE to the transfercase or they vibrate with more than 3" of lift. You can get away with a t-case drop, but what's the point of the lift then? Some had a vacuum disconnect D30 front. You don't want that either as it fails frequently.

In spite of all that I have a 90 that is my daily driver. I have the non disco front axle and an SYE with a 3" lift and I still have vibes. I need to shim the rear so that the pinion points at the t-case and that should take care of it. Mine has <150K on it and the lifters are noisy as hell some times. The only reason I bought it was I got it for $500. Couldn't find any 4Runner for even close to that. It drives great in snowy weather though with the limited slip rear and BFG KOs. My wife even prefers it over her Gen 1 4Runner at times. Mine is a Limited with full leather interior, but my built 85 4Runner is more comfortable for long distances. HTH
 

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805tacoma said:
thanks roodki, that helps alot, do you think i can get away with running 33's on the d35? what about a locker? i plan on staying with 33's i dont plan on ever going up to a 35's but i do want to run lockers front and rear i just wondering now if the d35 can handle 33's and a locker or if i should just stick with the 8.25, i just want to keep my options open when finding an xj whether it be a d35 or a 8.25
You could probably get away with 33's with the 35 with an open diff if you're careful, but once that thing gets locked I'd just kiss it goodbye. They're pretty much worthless. It is pretty easy to find one with the 8.25, so get that. Or...if ya want to do a little swapping, you can probably pick a Ford 8.8 up for a reasonable price and stick that thing under the rear. Then you have disk brakes and a pretty strong axle, stronger than the 8.25.

ToyRunner1 said:
To get serious you need to add an SYE to the transfercase or they vibrate with more than 3" of lift. You can get away with a t-case drop, but what's the point of the lift then?
Bah, you don't neeeeed an SYE. Suuure, everyone and their mom says you do, but I was running 4.5" in the rear without a problem. I just stuck shims back there and dropped the T-case and I was fine. But it is still a good idea to get one.

Here's a video I put together that has one of my buddies busting his D35 in his TJ. It didn't even take much.
http://ck01.nonconformistbastard.com/g/Badlandssmall.wmv

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks alot man, youre being very helpful, plus the vid is awesome, is your old xj in the vid? which is it? whats was your setup?

so your saying if i run 33's on a 8.25 im good even witha locker? sorry for all the questions im just wanna be sure about everythin b4 i fork out the dough
 

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805tacoma said:
thanks alot man, youre being very helpful, plus the vid is awesome, is your old xj in the vid? which is it? whats was your setup?

so your saying if i run 33's on a 8.25 im good even witha locker? sorry for all the questions im just wanna be sure about everythin b4 i fork out the dough
Yep, the black XJ with the rack on the top was mine. I had 31" Pro-Comp MT's with Rusty's 3" coils up front that got me 3.5" and a bastard pack I made for the rear with a combination of Dakota leafs and my stock leafs good for 4.5".

I think you'll be fine with 33's with a locker with the 8.25. Throw a 4.5" lift on it and do a little trimming and you'll have a great setup for wheeling.
Check out Naxja.org and Jeepforum.com for all kinds of good info too.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #13
roodki said:
Yep, the black XJ with the rack on the top was mine. I had 31" Pro-Comp MT's with Rusty's 3" coils up front that got me 3.5" and a bastard pack I made for the rear with a combination of Dakota leafs and my stock leafs good for 4.5".

I think you'll be fine with 33's with a locker with the 8.25. Throw a 4.5" lift on it and do a little trimming and you'll have a great setup for wheeling.
Check out Naxja.org and Jeepforum.com for all kinds of good info too.

-Chris
once again thanks, i was thinking of 5.5" lift to clear 33's but a 4.5" would be alot cheaper and i can deal with a little trimming, did you have open diffs?
 

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805tacoma said:
once again thanks, i was thinking of 5.5" lift to clear 33's but a 4.5" would be alot cheaper and i can deal with a little trimming, did you have open diffs?
If I were to do it, I'd go with the 4.5" lift and the 33's. The full leaf packs in the back should give you 5-5.5", so just throw a 1-1.5" spacer in the front to level it out. Then just trim the fenders a bit and you'll be good.

I was running open diffs. A locker or two sure would of been nice though.

-Chris
 

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roodki said:
Bah, you don't neeeeed an SYE. Suuure, everyone and their mom says you do, but I was running 4.5" in the rear without a problem. I just stuck shims back there and dropped the T-case and I was fine. But it is still a good idea to get one.
I did say you could get by with lowering the t-case, didn't I? It's just my opinion, but why raise something only to lower something else? The previous owner of my XJ was under the same assumption about not needing an SYE. That is one of the reasons I got it for so cheap. When you lose the slip yoke seal from all the vibrations and the chain snaps from no lube, they tend to cut the case in half. When I got mine the chain was hanging out the bottom of the t-case on the ground.

I got my JB Conversions SYE delivered to my door for $211. Installed it with the help of a friend who had done one before, and then had a front driveshaft re-tubed for another $100. Mine doesn't see much off road so the front shaft was plenty strong enough. If you plan on doing a lot of wheeling with it I'd opt for a stronger drive shaft. The JB SYE is a heavy duty unit, and I'm very happy with it. They're not that hard to install, but I did have to trim my shift rod some. We just used a plasma cutter.

There are many opinions out there, of which mine is just one, regarding needing an SYE. If you lift it and notice added vibrations don't let it go for too long. The t-case drops are fairly cheap if that's the route you decide to go and do solve a lot of problems. My choice was to go the SYE.
 

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My first wife had a 97 cherokee. This was a leased vehicle 97-2000 During the 3 years she had it Jeep replaced the following:
CD player (twice)
rear wiper motor (twice)
Driver's side power mirror motor
front passenger side window motor
Transmission @ 11,000 miles
and a ton of other things I don't recall--I was just happy to turn in the keys at the end of the lease

these are the things I remember, it was in the shop a total of 19-20 times lasting at least 9 weeks over the course of the lease. They always fixed them...

It worked great in the snow of western NY...for that it was a great vehicle, but even new the reliability left something to be desired...
Advantages: easy to find a low mileage one. easy to work on and lift.

A friend at work has a 2001 with 35" tires on it with the stock axles...he is looking for some bigger axles, breaks a lot of them

My first choice though would be to find a 4Runner....Have fun with what ever you find though
 
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