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I am currently running 35" tires with 4.10 gears on a manual tranny. Needless to say my towing ability has decreased somewhat and 5th gear is now reserved for 70+MPH. I have considered going to 4.88 gears to retain some pinion strength, but that is not even going down one full size. My main question is this: have you guys found the 5.29 pinion to be easily broken, and please define "easily" in your book, ie. crawling up boulders with 37's or driving on the street.

Thanks in advance!

Boheefus
 

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i wheel hard with 35s+5.29s.no problems.;)
 

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i think i went with randy's ring and pinion.

and i think they use yukon gears.
 

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Boheefus said:
I am currently running 35" tires with 4.10 gears on a manual tranny. Needless to say my towing ability has decreased somewhat and 5th gear is now reserved for 70+MPH. I have considered going to 4.88 gears to retain some pinion strength, but that is not even going down one full size. My main question is this: have you guys found the 5.29 pinion to be easily broken, and please define "easily" in your book, ie. crawling up boulders with 37's or driving on the street.

Thanks in advance!

Boheefus
i might have a set of 5.29 precision gears front and rear(non-trd). i can check on saturday if your interested.
 

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I have precision 5.29s w/ my V-6 5spd and 35in tires. I have used them a lot on and off road and haven't had trouble and hope I won't...the whole reverse cut thing helps a lot I assume...like I won't wanna try to wheel these things real hard in reverse everyday.
Ryan
 

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redneck said:
I have precision 5.29s w/ my V-6 5spd and 35in tires. I have used them a lot on and off road and haven't had trouble and hope I won't...the whole reverse cut thing helps a lot I assume...like I won't wanna try to wheel these things real hard in reverse everyday.
Ryan
Reverse cut just means that the pinion is above the center line of the gear.
 

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Boheefus said:
I am currently running 35" tires with 4.10 gears on a manual tranny. Needless to say my towing ability has decreased somewhat and 5th gear is now reserved for 70+MPH. I have considered going to 4.88 gears to retain some pinion strength, but that is not even going down one full size. My main question is this: have you guys found the 5.29 pinion to be easily broken, and please define "easily" in your book, ie. crawling up boulders with 37's or driving on the street.

Thanks in advance!

Boheefus
Can I ask why you don't want to run 4.88???

I ran 4.10s on 35s for about a week before regearing to 4.88s.... and I could really feel the difference... The highway driving alone made it worth it... Since i have an auto, the regearing actually allowed me to stay in my overdrive gear...

Nonetheless 4.88s feel great on both dailying driving or offroading...
 

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ptrautne said:
Reverse cut just means that the pinion is above the center line of the gear.
Reverse Cut gears are more involved than that. It really means the gears are cut in the opposite direction than "standard" gears. In a front diff with a standard gear, the pressure of the drivetrain is put on the sloped side of the gear, which causes problems of deflection. With a revers cut gear set in a front diff, the gears are NOT putting pressure on the "coast" side of the gear while driving forward. This is most important for front diffs as it puts pressure on the strong side of the gear's teeth, and not the weaker side like a standard cut gear. On a side not, a high pinion rear end needs reverse cut gears, but now your putting pressure on the sloped side of the teeth when driving forward.

While reverse roation is the type of gear needed for "high pinion" axles, it means alot more than just the pinion placement.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Skitz said:
Can I ask why you don't want to run 4.88???

I ran 4.10s on 35s for about a week before regearing to 4.88s.... and I could really feel the difference... The highway driving alone made it worth it... Since i have an auto, the regearing actually allowed me to stay in my overdrive gear...

Nonetheless 4.88s feel great on both dailying driving or offroading...
I'm not sure that 4.88 will be low enough. I live in a hilly region and I don't want to be in the same situation that I am in now, constant downshifting. I considered 4.88's to keep the ability to go down to a 33" tire in the future if I felt like it, but I believe I will stay with my 35's. You also have an automatic tranny which provides some torque multiplication allowing you to run a taller gear with comprable results. Thanks for the input though!
 

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Boheefus said:
I'm not sure that 4.88 will be low enough. I live in a hilly region and I don't want to be in the same situation that I am in now, constant downshifting. I considered 4.88's to keep the ability to go down to a 33" tire in the future if I felt like it, but I believe I will stay with my 35's. You also have an automatic tranny which provides some torque multiplication allowing you to run a taller gear with comprable results. Thanks for the input though!
4.88 will give you a little better proformance then stock with 35's. Did you have power problems when stock
 

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Puckett said:
Reverse Cut gears are more involved than that. It really means the gears are cut in the opposite direction than "standard" gears. In a front diff with a standard gear, the pressure of the drivetrain is put on the sloped side of the gear, which causes problems of deflection. With a revers cut gear set in a front diff, the gears are NOT putting pressure on the "coast" side of the gear while driving forward. This is most important for front diffs as it puts pressure on the strong side of the gear's teeth, and not the weaker side like a standard cut gear. On a side not, a high pinion rear end needs reverse cut gears, but now your putting pressure on the sloped side of the teeth when driving forward.

While reverse roation is the type of gear needed for "high pinion" axles, it means alot more than just the pinion placement.
Thanks for the info
 

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ptrautne said:
Reverse cut just means that the pinion is above the center line of the gear.
Reverse cut gears are made for reverse spiral, or "high-pinion" housings.

Standard gears cannot be swapped onto reverse cut gear carriers, but the carriers can be swapped.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44.htm
 

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Puckett said:
Reverse Cut gears are more involved than that. It really means the gears are cut in the opposite direction than "standard" gears. In a front diff with a standard gear, the pressure of the drivetrain is put on the sloped side of the gear, which causes problems of deflection. With a revers cut gear set in a front diff, the gears are NOT putting pressure on the "coast" side of the gear while driving forward. This is most important for front diffs as it puts pressure on the strong side of the gear's teeth, and not the weaker side like a standard cut gear. On a side not, a high pinion rear end needs reverse cut gears, but now your putting pressure on the sloped side of the teeth when driving forward.

While reverse roation is the type of gear needed for "high pinion" axles, it means alot more than just the pinion placement.
Good info. A lot of that can also be found here: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44.htm

Reverse rotation does not refer to the direction of rotation. It is simply a slang term for reverse spiral or "high-pinion" housings.
 

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well I'm not gonna even attempt to sound knowledgeable...my post was just a take on what a person once told me in regard to reverse cut gears and their properties, strengths/weaknesses, etc. That person was not a mechanic or someone that I really even trust w/mechanical knowledge, but they sure had me convinced they knew their stuff on that subject...now I know better...
Ryan
 

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Boheefus said:
I am currently running 35" tires with 4.10 gears on a manual tranny. Needless to say my towing ability has decreased somewhat and 5th gear is now reserved for 70+MPH. I have considered going to 4.88 gears to retain some pinion strength, but that is not even going down one full size. My main question is this: have you guys found the 5.29 pinion to be easily broken, and please define "easily" in your book, ie. crawling up boulders with 37's or driving on the street.

Thanks in advance!

Boheefus
If you wheel hard enough you will break the 4.10's, ive exploded the front diff once and broke 2 ring and pinions in the rear with 4.10's. that was on 35's, but post SAS i run 5.13's and 39.5's and havent had any problems, i dont think the difference from 4.88's and 5.29's are going to make a difference as far as being strong. the increace in power from the 5.29's imo should outway the little weakness that is there, just make sure to go with some good gears, if you are leary about it, get them cryro'ed and dont worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
zszac111 said:
If you wheel hard enough you will break the 4.10's, ive exploded the front diff once and broke 2 ring and pinions in the rear with 4.10's. that was on 35's, but post SAS i run 5.13's and 39.5's and havent had any problems, i dont think the difference from 4.88's and 5.29's are going to make a difference as far as being strong. the increace in power from the 5.29's imo should outway the little weakness that is there, just make sure to go with some good gears, if you are leary about it, get them cryro'ed and dont worry about it.
Sounds like good advice to me. I am not going to SAS for another year or 2, wife says I must have cash in pocket before tearing truck apart:) I am going to go with Precision Gears as they make a quality product. Thanks to everyone for chiming in, have a Merry Christmas!
 
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