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Discussion Starter #1
most if not all toyotas i see run 12.5 wide tires it seems.. i still am fairly new to toyotas... was wondering why noone seems to really be running 14.5 wide..

looking for a new set of tires soon and was thinking about the pitbull rockers in 35X1450-16.5... i also have a set of unused 38.5 1450 tsl sx's at home that are sitting around doing nothing... but im semi leary about putting them on the toy..
 

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14.5 wide tires have a ton of contact patch and take more effort to turn as a result. This puts alot of stress on your steering components (TRE's, arms, tie rod/drag links, trunion bearings, etc).

In my opinion there isn't really an upside to running a tire that wide in the rocks. I could understand if the preferred terrain was mud or snow where there an advantage to some floatation.

I have read the arguments regarding traction as a result of weight distributed over the contact patch. Which boils down to the bigger the contact patch, the more the weight is spread out and thus less pressure and traction. The thought is that with our light trucks, the larger the contact patch, the less traction. Technically, the argument has merit, but I'm not sure how much it is actually noticeable. If you search back thru this board and look for posts by redrunnertc, you can get more information on this.

I guess it comes down to personal preference.

I wanted to go with bias rockers, but I don't like the width. Those SX's would be bad ass, but that's alot of spinning mass for a toy axle.
 

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You know how it is, we're never satisfied!
Do I think you need 15" wide tires? No. But they look sweet.
I did have a little too much air on Holy Cross also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wish i would of saved the running gear from my chevy now... i sold off my d60 and 14bff bummer... the rim size is the biggest factor.. years ago it seemed like there was a crazy amount of tire choices for 16.5 rims... nowadays not so much... i sold off my 32 bolt beadlocks too cause they were 8lugers...

and that was a fairly good article
 

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Like was stated above wider tires cause more stress on the rig as well as fitment issues with little if any gain in performance.
 

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My 13.5" wide Iroks measure out a little over 14" wide. I'm a big fan of the extra width in the rocks & snow. Plus they make your rig more stable by adding some extra width (depends on the wheels and backspacing of course).

I'd be rocking those SX's in a heartbeat! One of my favorite tires.
 

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My 13.5" wide Iroks measure out a little over 14" wide. I'm a big fan of the extra width in the rocks & snow. Plus they make your rig more stable by adding some extra width (depends on the wheels and backspacing of course).

I'd be rocking those SX's in a heartbeat! One of my favorite tires.
I feel the same. Im way stable with the width.
 

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I ran 36/14.5 on my truck back when i first lifted it. I honestly loved them. They were great in the snow but they were too worn to know what they did in the rocks.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
how strong are the rear axle shafts in a yota? i have a v6rear in the back of my 4runner..

my truck sheered off 3 studs on the steering arm...i got fror arp steering arm studs to go in as well as longfeilds...and as soon as marlin gets the crawl boxes back in stock i will be doing a 4.70 crawlbox which seemingly now as dissapeared from there website.. odd

what will become the weaklink running the big sx's? or any other 37inch range tire? and the only problem with the sx's is getting them from pa to here hah
 

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rear axle shafts are decent..longs+arp's won't be the issue.... my bet is it'll be your ring n pinion, that's what i'd worry about running large/heavy tire/wheel combo's on toy axles. This might not be an issue depending on your wheeling style.
 

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Hub gear. I broke one. Replaced with one from Longfield. Good to go.
I've never broken a r&p. I guess it's how you drive that will count. I like to take it easy. If I get stuck, just back up and pick a different line.
 

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how strong are the rear axle shafts in a yota? i have a v6rear in the back of my 4runner..

my truck sheered off 3 studs on the steering arm...i got fror arp steering arm studs to go in as well as longfeilds...and as soon as marlin gets the crawl boxes back in stock i will be doing a 4.70 crawlbox which seemingly now as dissapeared from there website.. odd

what will become the weaklink running the big sx's? or any other 37inch range tire? and the only problem with the sx's is getting them from pa to here hah
Stock Toyota rears are pretty strong. They will break but it takes quite a bit. I've got a stock spare that goes in the tow truck tool box on the tougher trips. My buddy Cory has gone through a couple in the last 3 years. He's been running 40's for 4 years now. I haven't broke on on the 4 years I've been on 40's.

The next weakest link is the trunion bearings. Carry spares. Big tires and hydro assist kill them. Just the price to pay for wheeling with Toyota axles and big tires.

I'd also consider adding a 5th stud to your steering arms. Best upgrade I've done in a long time! My knuckle studs would be loose after every run. I've also sheared a couple knuckle studs and had to replace knuckles. I am now running ARP hardware (hub studs as well) and Longfield's 5th knuckle stud kit (too lazy to fab my own :lmao:). I still check my knuckle studs before every run but they haven't been loose in 7th wheeling days.

rear axle shafts are decent..longs+arp's won't be the issue.... my bet is it'll be your ring n pinion, that's what i'd worry about running large/heavy tire/wheel combo's on toy axles. This might not be an issue depending on your wheeling style.
X2, well said.

R&P for sure is the weak link. Wheeling style will dictate how well your Toyota axles will hold. I wheel mine with a light foot and let the gearing do the driving. If something gets bound, I'm backing out. I will pull winch cable before hammering down.

Hub gear. I broke one. Replaced with one from Longfield. Good to go.
I've never broken a r&p. I guess it's how you drive that will count. I like to take it easy. If I get stuck, just back up and pick a different line.
Yeah, with the 30 spline Longfields and their warranty, you gotta get their chromo hub gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
when my axle rebuild is done i wont have the trunion bearings.. after reading a review from davez offroad about how the kit worked i decided to get that kid and just redo the whole axle with the trunion bearing eliminator...

i dont think the 5th stud would be nesscary with the trunion elim kit? i could be wrong tho

and im fairly new to wheeling with a stick.. back in pa alot of it is mud with a decent amount of rocks.. but i always did it in a auto chevy with no worries of breaking anything axle wise.. but i guess i do prefer to let the gears do the work with a little throttle here and there..

i belive my studs prolly sheered off due to me not checking them after everytrip... the only wheeling ive done here so far is stuff up around dillion/breck which doesent seem to be challenging for the yota..
 

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when my axle rebuild is done i wont have the trunion bearings.. after reading a review from davez offroad about how the kit worked i decided to get that kid and just redo the whole axle with the trunion bearing eliminator...

i dont think the 5th stud would be nesscary with the trunion elim kit? i could be wrong tho

and im fairly new to wheeling with a stick.. back in pa alot of it is mud with a decent amount of rocks.. but i always did it in a auto chevy with no worries of breaking anything axle wise.. but i guess i do prefer to let the gears do the work with a little throttle here and there..

i belive my studs prolly sheered off due to me not checking them after everytrip... the only wheeling ive done here so far is stuff up around dillion/breck which doesent seem to be challenging for the yota..
Even with the eliminator kit the 5th stud OR 6shooter knuckles might be a good idea. Seems that most steering arms stay tight or dont. Mine used to do pretty good once i got em locked down but now they seem to back off even with red locktite. I looked in to the 5th stud kit to make my own but everyone says its not needed...The next time i have all that apart im going to add it just to be safe.

The eliminator kit seems to be sweet! i have it and the only thing i can say is in the first few 1000 miles greese it all the time. I found the greese likes to brake down a bit and seep in to the knuckle. So after thats full it is good but for a while keep an eye on it.

Toyota axles seem to be strong When my front axle was open the stock birfs were fine. Never had an issue. Locked i dont really worry about em cause i did the 30 splines. I have been fairly bound up and nothing popped or broke. Once you get to the point of 30splines, chromo hub gears, 5th stud you should feel pretty good about it being strong enough for whatever. Im on 37's and daily mine and wheel it as much as i can. Its been good so far...Fingers crossed it stays that way.
 
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