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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thanks to Dave (TRDOLMAN) and Noli, after 9 hr wrench fest my Aquamist is finally in.

We encountered some issues with the URD water injection plate. If you have a throttle body that's the newer style with electronic controls and a single throttle cable you will have same issues. Thanks again to Dave for fabing, cutting and making things work....and teaching me a few things. It would have been a nightmare without him.

Update: I emailed URD previous to this post. They are aware of this situation. Brain just replied and stated that he will refund me the cost of the adapter plate. Great customer service.

We also installed Airaid MIT and SG 2.2 pulley. Thanks to Noli for helping me tune. I'm running high 11s AFR in 4th gear. This truck is dangerously fast. Tuning on the freeway is an experience. I still need to touch things up. I didn't want to abuse my truck that much in one day.

One thing I realize.... just because you have WI doesn't mean you can take out your retard after boost. You will still need retard before boost and a little after whatever boost your WI is set at. Or you'll ping like a mofo.

If you are going to use your windshield tank as your WI tank, you should fill the tank with water (after it has been fitted with the nozzle) and check for leaks because its the first thing you do. Don't wait till the end like we did to test for leaks. My leaked 3 times...yes I had to install and remove my tank 3 times. The walls of the plastic tank is very thin so make sure the nozzle goes in straight. Follow URD's instructions on drilling a holes with a 21/64'' drill bit, carefully heating the area with a heat gun and then gently screw in the fitting. We actually tapped our fitting but it actually gave us more problems. Using Teflon tape on the threads and silicon sealant on the outside also helps. Silicon didn't work for our situation but we used a never dry, plumbing goop stuff. Dave should know what I'm talking about.

Let me know if you have any questions or feedback.

Jim

Here's some pics.
http://community.webshots.com/user/dirtdogg7
 

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you'll have to take me for a spin....still want to go to the dunes this weekend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
YoTRacer158 said:
you'll have to take me for a spin....still want to go to the dunes this weekend?
Sure. when? If the surf is good, it will have to be in the afternoon.
 

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Hey Jim that's great news,... I have some questions about the WI plate. I'll PM you. I haven't installed mine yet, well I tried to install the plate, but had touble. I need to know what you and Dave did to make it work. Anyway,... that is great that your mods are in. That just makes me want to get mine finished faster. I just need a little break from work and travel. maybe in a few weeks I'll get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DylanDr said:
i'd be interested to see what map you came up with??????
i have the same setup and i also had to keep some retard about 1.5 pounds after water starts.
what nozle are you using???
I started with orifice size 0.8mm and aquamist comes on at around 4 psi. I'm going to adjust my to come on at 1.5 psi to decrease some of the retard in map b.

Do you want to trade maps? [email protected]. I will reply with a copy of my map.
 

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Jim, that sweet that you installed the WI setup. I've been contemplating the kit myself but I think I will go with headers first. How much HP do you think you gained?

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LocoTaco said:
Jim, that sweet that you installed the WI setup. I've been contemplating the kit myself but I think I will go with headers first. How much HP do you think you gained?

Robert
I don't know how many hp I've gain but gains are not directly from WI but from increased boot, supressed detonation and zero to very little retard in timing. I jump at the aquamist when it was on sale for $699. It was sort of a impluse buy. Our SC truck run really high EGT and I want to increase the reliability by using WI. Did you get my PM?
 

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Super Doody said:
I don't know how many hp I've gain but gains are not directly from WI but from increased boot, supressed detonation and zero to very little retard in timing. I jump at the aquamist when it was on sale for $699. It was sort of a impluse buy. Our SC truck run really high EGT and I want to increase the reliability by using WI. Did you get my PM?
I figured you would like the jump in performance with the upgrades. Sure makes a difference. Glad you are happy with the truck. Now all you need is to change your thermostat and do a little more tweeking and your good to go.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TRDOLMAN said:
I figured you would like the jump in performance with the upgrades. Sure makes a difference. Glad you are happy with the truck. Now all you need is to change your thermostat and do a little more tweeking and your good to go.
Dave

Dave you "froggy" :D

Thanks again man. Good luck at the track today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TRDOLMAN said:
I figured you would like the jump in performance with the upgrades. Sure makes a difference. Glad you are happy with the truck. Now all you need is to change your thermostat and do a little more tweeking and your good to go.
Dave
Dave what size nozzle are you using? Is the green light ever not on ? Driving to work this morning I thought for a split second my green light was off.
 

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Super Doody said:
Dave what size nozzle are you using? Is the green light ever not on ? Driving to work this morning I thought for a split second my green light was off.
Jim, I'm using the .8mm nozzle. The green light is showing the pulse signal from the fuel injector. The high speed valve open and close is based on that pulse signal. The light will illuminate any time the fuel injector pulses. If you are running high RPM's and rapidly close the throttle, the ECU momentarily shuts off the fuel injector so there is no pulse and the green light will go off momentarily. This is normal. Not to worry!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
TRDOLMAN said:
Jim, I'm using the .8mm nozzle. The green light is showing the pulse signal from the fuel injector. The high speed valve open and close is based on that pulse signal. The light will illuminate any time the fuel injector pulses. If you are running high RPM's and rapidly close the throttle, the ECU momentarily shuts off the fuel injector so there is no pulse and the green light will go off momentarily. This is normal. Not to worry!

Dave
Awesome thanks Dave. I never thought of it like that I was just paranoid of my soldering skills. Do you think my connections are okay if soldering to iron instead of heating up the wire?
 

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Dave,

So how did the day at the drag strip go?

:)

-Dave
 

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TRDOLMAN said:
14.7 @ 93.23 I only got 2 runs in. I need to get better traction but am pretty happy with the results. It was a lot of fun. People laughed about a 4X4 Toyota until the first run.
Dave
That is pretty fast in my book for a rig that can throw it in 4 and head into a feild after going that fast. Job well done. Are you gonna do the traction bars? I have some fitting for mine to work or I may unload them. No time for a few week to mess with them though. What in the hell are you doing up at this hour anyways?
 

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wisctaco04 said:
That is pretty fast in my book for a rig that can throw it in 4 and head into a feild after going that fast. Job well done. Are you gonna do the traction bars? I have some fitting for mine to work or I may unload them. No time for a few week to mess with them though. What in the hell are you doing up at this hour anyways?
Thanks Matt. I don't know about the traction bar. After playing with the truck some more, I don't really think I need it because I don't ever plan on lifting the truck. Super Doody expressed interest in the traction bar. He has the same setup I do but he is lifted with a stick shift and could use the bar a lot more than I could. I might let him have it if I ever get it.

Dave
 
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