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Ok I finished my conversion chart. I am going from a 97 Runner 3.4 v6 auto to a 95.5 Tacoma , 3.4, 4x4, manual ECM.

Everything went pretty smooth as far as making the conversions but I have a few things on the Taco ECM that i do not have one the 4Runner.

ACV -- I have nothing for this on the Runner ECM and I know that there are no VSV's for this anywhere. Not sure of the ill effects of not having this. I do not have the AC working on my swap anyway, but i hope to soon after I make the conversion.

FPU -- I do not have this either on my 97 Runner ECM nor a VSV for it.

EGR -- As far as i can tell, Runner's didnt have EGRs. I wonder if there is a way to wire a resistor to this line to make the ECM think that the EGR is functioning?

THG -- My Runner EWD has nothing for this either.

**EDIT** After reviewing the plugs in my 95.5 ECM it seems that i have wires coming from the plug for both the EGR and THG. i would assume this to mean that the donor vehicle that this ECM came from didnot have an EGR which would be welcome news since my Runner motor has no EGR either.
Anyone have a thought on how to handle these three wires to make this all easier?

Thanks

jason
 

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... Yeah, I'm still puzzled on this as well. The OIL is the trans oil temp sensor/warning circuit, which is A/T only, but what puzzles me is the circuit that's supposed to be responsible for the CCV on the A/T -- if that pin is being used by the ECU for the OIL sensor, then which ECU pin is controlling the CCV? I don't have an answer yet. The added irony is that the analysis shows there are only a very few conflicts out of the entire multi-year span of transmissions and ECUs that share the same connectors. Just my luck one of those is my year :rolleyes:
I don't have any clarification to offer - I find this as confusing as you guys do.

It appears Toyota played fast and loose with the A/T oil temp connection at the ECM during that period. In 2001 the A/T oil temp connection was at 15-C (C-15; whatever ...), and in 2003 it was reassigned to 19-D. So neither of the bordering years' layouts offer clues with respect to the listed 2002 location at 19-C.

On the other hand ... Maybe it's not the A/T oil temp that's the oddball connection here. I thought the 'CCV' was for the VSV for the charcoal canister. The relocation of the charcoal canister to the rear happened with 2002, and the VSV for it was introduced with the 2002 model year.
 

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Thanks for your help, everyone -- v1 of the "complete" early Tacoma ECU wiring table document is ready for download:

Early_Tacoma_ECUs_v1

(Right Click, "Save File As...", etc. Total size is 2.7MB)

Thanks especially to Yotaoffroad27, Johnnyboy, and EnolaGaia for your feedback and contributions -- it would not have happened without the influx of wiring diagrams Johnnyboy and Enola provided. I am also endebted to Enola for the the ECU function abbreviation definitions and wire color legends. Thanks!!

Feedback and corrections welcome. :)

Enjoy!

-Jeff


no problem Jeff. Glad i could be a part of somthing valuable! I just read threw a few pages of it.... great work!! that is Grade A work. and SHOULD be in the FAQ!
 

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I working on my swap and needed to circle back on the wiring portion as its definately week area. Mosk22rte your wite up and all the others work is absolutely great. But I havent seen any further posting. Has it been identified that the correct manual ecu just needs to be plugged in without cutting any wires or pins? I mean I suppose I can just plug it in and see if it throws any codes right?
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Hey sasdreamer,

The fear isn't throwing codes, although that would obviously be bad if you need to pass an inspection w/no codes. Instead, the fear is that simply hooking up a MT ECU to an unmodified AT harness will damage the MT ECU, because the AT ECU has approx. 15 more wires than the MT harness, and some of those may still be live or grounded, but there's no guarantee the corresponding pins are completely dead on the MT ECU.

For this reason, the safest course of action is to disconnect the unused wires, so there's no possibility of accidentally damaging the MT ECU. That was the main reason why I crunched all of these wiring diagrams and compiled the results.

No one's going to stop you if you want to plug yours in and turn the key, but for me, I didn't want to risk damaging a hard-to-find and expensive ECU on the hunch that it would just work correctly. I know it will work correctly if I give it the same wires it's expecting to see if it were connected to a real MT harness.

My :2cents:

Jeff
 

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Jeff, thank you for your input. Ive been reading safety's thread since close to day one. I read through all the work that you guys had done to get to this point and was inspired like the all the rest.

I currently have everything completed on my 2wd auto to 5spd 4wd transmission swap accept for the following -
-install hyd. line from MC to SC
-add oil
-wire the 8 wire neutral safety switch based on Tacoma4Life's diagram
-swap auto ecu for manual ecu

As you can clearly tell, my questions evolve completely around the electrical work involved. It would seem that I fall short in this area and am nervous. First of all I am working without a FSM and relying soley on yours and the others information. My question is that of all of the write ups on this I have yet to see photos showing the wiring portions. (i'm sure because there hard to show clearly)
Question 1- I have an 02 DC Prerunner 2.7 and I got my clutch pedal assymbly from car-part.com but based on Tacoma4life's diagram I'm not sure that I have the correct one because all thats on it is what i would assume to be the clutch start solenoid. His diagram mentions two seperate connections listed below.

"When the clutch is pushed in, wires 6 and 9 are connected and
the computer thinks it's in neutral. Now the truck can be started.
Without the clutch depressed the truck will not start. Very factory like.

When the clutch is fully released wires 3 and 7 are connected.
Now the computer thinks it's in drive and the cruise will function
properly. However, as soon as you begin to depress the clutch,
the cruise will disengage just as it should."

Am I missing something?

Question two - You mentioned that you used a URD jumper harness but if you were to do it permanent, does that mean you'd just cut and remove the wires before they plugged into the ECU? Or remove the pins of the ECU itself? I guess Im much more a visual person when it comes to wiring.

Any and all help is definately appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
As you can clearly tell, my questions evolve completely around the electrical work involved. It would seem that I fall short in this area and am nervous.
Relax, it isn't that bad. Honestly.

First of all I am working without a FSM and relying soley on yours and the others information.
Why?! Go to http://techinfo.toyota.com and buy a 2 day pass for $15. Have full access to the FSM online. Download as much of it as you want during that period, including the wiring diagrams. Get everything. Shine some light on what you're unsure of.

My question is that of all of the write ups on this I have yet to see photos showing the wiring portions. (i'm sure because there hard to show clearly)
In my case, I did my final ECU wiring at 2:30am after wrenching on it for who knows how many hours. I just wanted to finish and completely forgot about taking pictures. :xzzz:

Question 1- I have an 02 DC Prerunner 2.7 and I got my clutch pedal assymbly from car-part.com but based on Tacoma4life's diagram I'm not sure that I have the correct one because all thats on it is what i would assume to be the clutch start solenoid. His diagram mentions two seperate connections listed below.

"When the clutch is pushed in, wires 6 and 9 are connected and
the computer thinks it's in neutral. Now the truck can be started.
Without the clutch depressed the truck will not start. Very factory like.

When the clutch is fully released wires 3 and 7 are connected.
Now the computer thinks it's in drive and the cruise will function
properly. However, as soon as you begin to depress the clutch,
the cruise will disengage just as it should."

Am I missing something?
The wires he mentions are the ones in the AT wiring harness that plugs into the AT transmission under the truck. This is the thick wiring harness you'll unplug to remove the transmission. I'll come back to this in a minute.

There should be two switches on the clutch pedal assembly, the lower one you engage when you depress the clutch (the clutch start switch) and the one on top that opens when you depress the clutch (this one cancels the cruise control). It sounds like you're missing one, but you only need it if you want full cruise control functionality.

The clutch cancel switch in the dash is it's own thing, and TBH it's kind of a pain to wire up because the connectors it uses are hard to source. I still haven't wired mine.

If you want to keep all of the stock functionality (clutch cancel switch, clutch start switch, and/or cruise control disengagement) you'll need to run four wires (IIRC) from that harness to the clutch pedal assembly inside the cab. I ended up drilling and grommeting a hole through the fire wall to do this.

Now, back to that wiring harness that runs to the trans: you will need to compare its pin numbers and wire colors with the wires in your FSM and on your truck. My harness had the same functionality as the one in Tacoma4Life's diagram -- same wires -- but my wires were in different positions and some may have had different colors.[/b] I had to translate his diagram to match my harness. I made a screenshot of the pins for your truck, taken from the overall EWD for the 2002 3RZ Tacoma:



This is Tacoma4Life's diagram:



So, confirm the above wires in the first picture match yours, and modify the connections on Tacoma4Life's diagram accordingly. Clear?

Question two - You mentioned that you used a URD jumper harness but if you were to do it permanent, does that mean you'd just cut and remove the wires before they plugged into the ECU? Or remove the pins of the ECU itself? I guess Im much more a visual person when it comes to wiring.

Any and all help is definately appreciated!
If I were to make it permanent, I'd just cut the unused wires and tape each end so it couldn't short on anything. Removing the pins and taping would also work and might be easier to put back together if you needed to.

Anyway, chew on the above info and post back if you have more questions. And if course, post back when you get it running!

Jeff
 

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Its running! Thanks for the last minute support. I still have yet to conquer the ecu but I feel better now that its running. Makes sense the way its wired now. What threw me was that the clutch start solenoid wiring that was mounted to the clutch bracket had the wire coloring for the clutch release and not the clutch depress one. Everything is operating. So far so good with few miles on it. Will post pictures this weekend! Thanks again Jeff!
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Awesome! Glad you got it running.

I still have yet to conquer the ecu but I feel better now that its running.
So...it's running using the AT ECU and throwing codes?

Good luck on the last bit, and yeah, post some pics when it's done.

Jeff
 

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Update! Did some investigating before I put my ECU in. I really wanted to know if I could just plug my harness into my ECU with out killing the ECU itself. Just by looking at your ECU you wouldn't know if any of the connectors were hooked up. I went ahead and opened up my ECU and this is what I found. For 02 Tacomas swapping to 4wd 5 Speed you delete Pin 5 of Connector E5. I went and matched that physically with the ECU and followed it to see where it goes.... It keeps going and connects to other things that should not be connected.. So... "mod or not to mod"




MOD :saw: :welder:.... Better safe then sorry...

-SafetyDang
 

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Good info Dang. I seem to remember reading somewhere (yotatech I think) where someone had just plugged the a/t harness to the m/t ecu and called it good. It was also mentioned that he didn't remove any pins from the plugs. With that said, I'm with you. I de-pinned all the a/t pins just to safe. It's an easy task and is worth the time to be sure nothing comes back to ecu that would damage it.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Yeah, I think it's good that you took the time to investigate, Dang, and I also agree with your conclusion. It would be different if these ECUs were cheap or readily available, but they're not, so I think it's better to be safe than sorry.

Hope the rest of your ECU conversion goes well (or went well, if you're done).

Keep us posted,

Jeff
 

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Got around to it today. Before that though I asked my Body Electrical teach that has 30 years background if I really needed to delete the wires. He said there is no difference between harnesses so it shouldn't matter. By looking at my diagrams he said in theory you could just plug and play... Then he replied that since you already did the research just cut the wires to be safe.









Code were cleared till I got a p1132.. which is the A/F front sensor. >.< Always something... Though I do have an exhaust leak that I haven't tended to. Other than that the swap took 30mins, Cutting not unpining.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Congrats!

Bummer about the stray code, but I'm going to go with the exhaust leak being responsible for the code, as we have the same year and same swap, and I don't have any codes.

Glad you got it done! :D
 

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Congrats!

Bummer about the stray code, but I'm going to go with the exhaust leak being responsible for the code, as we have the same year and same swap, and I don't have any codes.

Glad you got it done! :D
Still some odds and ends I need to sort out. I haven't gotten around bending my twin stick. I did try it out the other day though :) I love 4wd low!

I'm hoping I can get away with fixing the leak rather than shelling out $150 bones for a new sensor.

Thanks again for the collaboration of EWDs!
 

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Discussion Starter #98
So you just bolted a man trans ECU in place of the A/T ECU and cut or un-pinned some (lol) wires?
Well...yeah. It's just wiring. The goal is to get it running correctly and not trip the CEL. The trick is knowing which wires you need and which ones you don't.
 

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So you just bolted a man trans ECU in place of the A/T ECU and cut or un-pinned some (lol) wires?
Thats pretty much what I did. Has been working flawlessly for a few years now. Even took it to Toyota to have it inspected. :cool:
 
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